Breeding Betta Fish Made Easy In 5 Steps

I got my first betta fish as a teenager and enjoyed that first betta for several years.
The Siamese Fighting Fish, commonly called betta, is one of the most popular freshwater aquarium fish. Bettas earn the nickname "jewel of the orient" because of their range of brilliant colors. The males particularly sport long flowing beautiful fins. Their beauty causes many to enjoy the hobby of breeding betta fish.
The temperament of the fish is very aggressive. Males especially will readily fight other males. Females may also be prone to fight.
1. Care of males and females.
It is essential to distinguish between males and females, but it isn't always easy to do. Males do tend to have larger and fuller fins. Studying pictures of the differences will help. Each male should be kept in his own bowl or tank. Two males in the same tank will usually fight until one is dead. Even a male and female should be together only briefly for spawning. Otherwise the male will often treat the female roughly and do permanent damage.
Several females can usually be kept in the same tank provided there is sufficient room. There should be more than two females, otherwise one will dominate and continually chase the other female.
2. Water conditions are important for breeding betta fish.
The betta's native habitat is vast, shallow freshwater paddies of Southeast Asia. The fish must have access to the surface of the water, since it takes oxygen directly from the atmosphere as well as through their gills. Since they can get oxygen from the surface, they can survive in smaller spaces and poorer condition than other aquarium fish. Though they do best in clean, filtered water. They can be kept in bowls under the right conditions, but a portion of the water should be changed very frequently. It's best to allow about three gallons per fish. And it's recommended to have a minimum tank size of six gallons so a heater can be used. The right water temperature is 75 - 84 degrees F. At those temperatures the fish will be quite active.
3. Choose the right food.
Bettas are carnivorous but they can do well on food labelled for betta fish. The addition of live or frozen blood worms (mosquito larvae) and live or frozen shrimp brine is recommended. Most aquarium bred fish will also accept dried flaked aquarium tropical fish food.
4. Mating.
Males build a nest of air bubbles for the baby fish or fry. And the males care for the young.
For spawning, a female is introduced into the male tank. If conditions are right for mating, the male fish will squeeze the female. Eggs will be expelled, then fertilized by the male. The female should then be removed to her tank to prevent her injury by the male fish. Even if spawning does not take place, the female should be removed.
The male fish will care for the eggs until the fry emerge in a few days.
5. Providing for the young.
The released little fish or fry are very tiny and vulnerable. Most often they are raised in special ponds where they feed on tiny microscopic living creatures. Some have success raising the fry in bowls or aquariums. But the conditions must be right, similar to the usual pond environment.
For much more information on breeding bettas and successfully raising

Top 10 Frequently Asked Questions on Betta Fish Explained!

Betta Fish, arguably the most popular type of fish found in the home today across all the world. This astonishing fish displays a vibrant personality whilst posing the most magnificent colour and fin structure helping to create a truly jaw dropping aquarium that you can show off to your guests!
Originating from the paddy fields of Vietnam, Betta are an astounding fish and I will be answering in this article the 10 most popular questions I get asked on a regular basis about Betta Fish. So lets get started...
1. How do you stop Betta Fish from Fighting?
This is probably one of the most popular questions I get asked!
In my experience I've found a few ways that work...
One way is simply to get a bigger tank. With the bigger tank you can include a couple of new plants, bear in mind you don't want to over do it with the plants otherwise you will ruin your fish display (not very appealing to your guests!). By making the tank bigger and introducing a few more plants it creates extra hiding places for your Betta when the aggressive one is on the war path!
A second way is to simply separate the aggressive fish from the rest. This can be done by putting a divider into your tank, or by taking the aggressive fish out and putting it into a new tank. I would personally recommend putting a divider into your tank, size permitting of course, as your Betta will know the other Betta Fish are there. It also helps when it comes to the breeding process because introductions would have already been made.
Thirdly, you must NEVER, I repeat NEVER put a male Betta in with another male Betta Fish, period! Otherwise, they will fight to the death (this is why they are also known as Siamese Fighting Fish!). So by not keeping males together this will reduce fighting astronomically.
Female Betta's have been known to be aggressive and fight between each other, particularly if you have 2 together. However, this is just an "I'm the leader" thing going on between them and usually wears off , but a technique I've used and seen have great success to stop this happening is to add a 3rd female into the tank. By doing this any tension between the previous two is removed - try it, you'll be surprised how effective it is!
2. Can You Keep Male and Female Betta Fish Together?
Yes you can. However, I would recommend keeping a close eye on the male Betta just in case he becomes too aggressive and the female needs to be removed. As I mentioned above having plants in the tank can help the female hide if the male becomes aggressive.
3. How Do You Tell the Difference Between a Male and Female Betta Fish?
I always remember the saying "It's easy when you know how..." when I get asked this question because when I first started breeding Betta Fish it took me ages to recognise the difference between a male and a female...
You will tend to find that female Betta's have fat bellies where as males tend to have a more streamlined structure. Also, you will find that males have a longer body and fins whereas the females are shorter in body size and fin length.
Also, male Betta Fish tend to have more colour and longer pointed anal fins compared to their female counterparts (sorry ladies!). You will also find female anal fins are more level to their body. The anal fin is the rigid looking fin coming from the bottom of the Betta Fish.
However, one giveaway of a female is her white spot on the underside of her belly. This white spot is called the ovipositor and is used during the breeding process.
4. What are the Best Caring Tips for Betta Fish?
Lots of people have written books on the subject of caring for Betta Fish but I'm going to give you my best tips that I've picked up along the way...
- Test your water's acidity level regularly. A PH level of 7 works best in my experience.
- Always try and keep the water temperature at around 75-80 Fahrenheit. I would recommend testing this regularly using a floating thermometer because big drops in water temperature can cause stress on your fish. Floating thermometers in my experience give the best accuracy reading because they are kept in the tank water.
- Always keep a lid/cover over the top of your tank with air holes in it because Betta Fish can jump and you might not be there to catch them!
- Any filtration system should be kept at a low level and you must take care not to put the air intake in such a position that it could cause your Betta to get hurt. Having your filter system at a high setting has been known to cause stress to your Betta.
- Try and clean your tank regularly, ideally twice a week. Remove bits of food caught under the stones, castles or leaves of your tank.
- As a rule of thumb I recommend 3 quarters of a gallon per Betta fish in your tank. Also, try and get a spacious tank to allow your Betta plenty of room to show off their personality, you'll be surprised some are very exciting to watch!
I've always found if you love your Betta like you love your own then you won't go far wrong, and with implementing the above you will be well on your way to having truly astonishing Betta Fish.
5. What should I feed my Betta Fish?
Surprisingly, Betta Fish are known to be fussy eaters (and you thought us humans were bad!). So it is best to feed them on a variety of foods, such as:
- Brine shrimp - Daphnia - Frozen Bloodworms - Blackworms (Tubifex) worms - Combination Betta Pellets from Pet Shops - Powder Fish Food if feeding Fry - Vegetables (such as green beans, not a whole one but in tiny portions)
I tend to find a regular feeding pattern of 2-3 times a day works best for Betta. Try as well to make portions eaten in one sitting otherwise any leftover food could lead to additional bacteria in the tank potentially causing disease for your Betta Fish.
6. What are Betta Fish also Known as?
Not a lot of people know this but Betta Fish are also known as Siamese Fighting Fish. The name originates because of the males aggressiveness and their "Fight to the Death" attitude if two males are put in the same tank together.
Betta fish are often referred to as Betta Splendens but this is a type of breed of Betta, which leads us nicely onto the next question...
7. What are the Different Types of Betta Fish Available?
There are many types of Betta Fish available, the most popular types I've listed below:
- Betta Splendens (the most common type) - Betta Bellica - Betta Coccina - Betta Picta
Some of the most popular Tail Types of Betta are:
- Veil Tail (this generally the most common tail type that you find at the pet stores)
- Delta Fish (normally any fish under the 180 degree tail span is considered a Delta)
- Super Delta Fish (normally any Betta with a tail span of 120-180 degrees)
- Fan Tail (the Betta's tail displays a smoothly rounded edge)
- Half Moon (as it's name suggest it's tail is the shape of a half moon - a 180 degrees span, this is the fish most breeders strive to achieve and display a truly fabulous colour!)
- Pin (Spade) Tail (the Betta's tail is pointed at the end)
Depending on what you are looking for this should hopefully give you enough information to choose a Betta fish at the pet store! ;-)
8. Can I Put Bamboo in With My Betta Fish?
Bamboo or Lucky Bamboo as it is also known, the type that is sold from pet stores, can be put into your tank with your Betta Fish. The bamboo can make your tank look more attractive and appealing to your guests, which is always a bonus!
However, what I recommend is that the bamboo is washed thoroughly before entry into the tank to help ensure there are no chemicals on it that could hurt your Betta. Also, it is a good idea to check the bamboo regularly just to see if it is rotting because it could release bacteria into your tank's water that could potentially harm your Betta fish. Changing your tank's water often will reduce the threat of bacteria happening.
9. What Ammonia Level Should My Tank be at?
Ideally, you want an ammonia level between 0-0.5. By changing your water regularly (about 30-50% twice a week, if you have high ammonia) this will help reduce the ammonia in your tank.
It is a good idea to monitor ammonia levels on a regular basis, because a high level is not healthy for your Betta Fish.
10. Would a Father Betta Harm His Children?
Unfortunately, a male (Father) Betta would harm his children (Fry). Although, the Father is very protective of the Fry during the spawning process it is common for them to attack the Fry as they become bigger and able to look after themselves.
I recommend removing the Father from the tank once the Fry are able to swim freely, usually 7-10 days after birth because he can become very aggressive towards them and potentially cause them harm.
That's the answers to the 10 most asked questions I get on a regular basis. I hope you found this information useful and are able to put it to good effect.

Breeding Betta Fish for Profit

Breeding Betta fish can be somewhat difficult if you have never done it before, or if you do not have a lot of patience. However, if you can get past the particular things that can make Betta fish a little more difficult to breed, then you should be able to turn a pretty good profit, and have fun along the way.
These include things such as keeping the water temperature a comfortable 80-82 degrees, and making sure you remove the female and male Bettas at the right times.
You will also be the proud caretaker of up to 1000 baby fish! Not all the fry will live, but there will most likely be several hundred and you will be able to sell them within a few weeks.
You will need to decide whether you are going to provide a nice habitat to go along with the fish, or if you are going to just have them in a glass or plastic fish cup until they get home with their new owners. You may be able to get a larger profit if you add a bowl and plant fixture; that has been popular in years past.
If you have the option for a plant/bowl aquarium, some people are willing to pay extra for those features. With several hundred fish out of each breeding, you should be able to turn out a fair profit from breeding your Betta fish. Just be sure to pay close attention to the adult fish through the process and you'll have fun too!

Betta Fish Shows

Small wild Betta fish still swim in the rice paddy channels of Southeast Asia, protecting their bubble nests from all interlopers. Though lively, the Betta fish are far removed from their familial relatives, normally called Siamese fighting fish.
Wild Betta fishes will fight to protect their area but they are street fighters in comparison to the Sweet Pea Whitakers of the pet trade i.e. the familial Betta fishes. The wild Betta fishes are not so much colorful as the familial Betta fishes nor are their fins as long and as attractive as their familial counterparts. However the genes are certainly there. When a Betta fish - untamed or tame - meet another Betta fish, they both act in response impulsively. The color of their body becomes dark noticeably, as if flushed in irritation, and their straggling fins flash open and sit up, erect like a fan prepared to fight the summer heat.
For centuries in Asia the little fish were breed in internment only for their fierceness and combating aptitude. The fish were paired off by their possessor to fight, many a times to the death, to a large extent like a cock fight.
Now a days fighting is not authorized or excused by the International Betta Congress. As an alternative Betta fish breeders breed their fish to improve their beauty, taking benefit of the physical uniqueness of violent behavior.
Over the years the betta fish has been bred for more and more attractive color differences and longer more good-looking and striking flowing fins. Betta fishes are found in different colors like yellow, blue, green, red, black and turquoise. Many a times they also are bi-colored and they come with a pale sparkling look as if they had been covered with mother of pearl. At betta shows, there are 48 various color groups in which you can select anyone to fight.
Possessors take benefit of the fish's fighting nature to boast their colors and fins at their best for betta show adjudicators. The fish are publicized independently in small glass bowls and are disallowed to view the fish in neighboring bowls by pieces of card stock. When the adjudicators come around, the card stock is raised and the Bettas look each other from the glass. Their colors turn out to be vivacious and their fins get higher and spread like fighters cocking their fists. The fishes are judged by the adjudicators on clarity and limpidness of color, unusual and astonishing finnage, posture and deportment. Here deportment is not behavior. It's how nicely the fish swims and how attentive it is.
That's what a Betta show is all about - just raising those pieces of card stocks and the rest is done by the betta fishes.
Betta fishes generally costs more than $150. Even though Betta breeders would like to get back their operating cost, they know better than to think they will make a lot of money from their fish. The breeders mainly do it for the contentment of breeding the Betta fishes and not for earning more profit.
Bottled water doesn't provide the best possible environment for your Betta fish. Actually most of the bottled waters available in market don't have the essential minerals needed for the healthy environment of the fish. Also these bottled waters may contain some chemicals which could be injurious for the fish. Similarly, you should never make use of purified water or water that has been "distilled" by any procedure.
The real best water for your Betta fish is just simple tap water. You can also use spring water but you must remove the harmful chemicals present in it by following the procedure mentioned below:
1. Most of the time a very harmful chemical known as chloramines are present in water which may kill your Betta fish. To remove this harmful chemical from water you have to purchase AmQuel. AmQuel is very easily obtainable at pet stores. 2. You can also get a 'stress coat' from your nearby local pet shop. It is also one of the best products for your betta fish.
3. Now as you've treated the water as per the above directions, it requires to "age" which will permit all of the chemicals and gasses to disappear, and also for the pH in the water to standardize. To let the chemicals evaporate, just put the treated water in an open container for a week.

Breeding Betta fishes

Betta fishes are in reality very sociable fish as long as you don't place two males together. They can be very easily kept with most other fish, and what you truly have to watch out for is the fish that bothers bettas.
Betta fishes are slow moving fish with incredibly long fins, so they can't be placed with any fast moving fish that is being known for it's fin-nipping, like zebra danios. They get along in a very good manner with most breeds of tetras, and you can let your baby betta fish grow with baby neons.
When you place bettas in a community tank, the most significant thing to keep in mind is that they are fish that initially came from an area with slow moving water. So any kind of big filtration on the tank will shock a betta and make him conceal in a corner away from the current. You have to create a sense of balance in this case with the other fish in the tank that have need of the current and bubbles for the oxygen in the water for them to survive. Alternatively, once a betta fish gets accustomed to the current from a filter, you will every now and then see the betta playing in it for fun. Simply take care that there is an area with slow moving water or still water in the tank for the betta to move to when they are exhausted.
Normally you can't place a male and female betta fish in the same tank if * The two fish are not very babyish (more than a few months old generally won't work) * They are not prepared and ready to reproduce, * They have not grown up together from a very young age, and * You do not have sufficient hiding places for the female.
This is a sweeping statement - your mileage may differ on this one!
Generally, even for usual breeders, getting the silly small fish to breed can be either an effortless joy or a royal pain. They're not as good as the humans on blind dates. Many a times one couple will take to each other right away and you'll have eggs spread here and there in the tank, and sometimes they can swim around the tank for weeks and in no way look at each other. Or in certain cases one will be attracted but the other won't. So don't ever get depressed about not being able to breed the fish.
As a universal rule, for a female betta fish, give her sufficient time for her to recuperate and start looking prepared again; Sorry, that won't help out a lot, but every fish is unusual just keep an eye on your betta fish. If she had a despondent initially, it'll take her a while to recuperate. If the whole thing went well, she can be hot to trot again within a week.
Generally the second mating produce less number of eggs as compared to the first one, but it's never debilitated the female yet. If the female betta fish hasn't been fed, high-protein food regularly, then it takes normally a minimum time of 2-3 weeks after starting that food that she'll be prepared for breeding. After having been bred, if the female fish has been put on that same food again, usually within 2-3 weeks she'll be prepared again. However, it would better on your part to maintain a gap of one month in between.
Look carefully while placing the fish together. If the female is trying to attract the male aggressively and the bubblenest, and hanging her head down in the water, she's prepared. If all she does is swim away worriedly trying to run away, she's not.
Males also have to be conditioned as they use up a lot of exertion in tending the fry, but they're time and again more prepared than females. Though, keep an eye on the fish. From time to time the male is just so eager to be with a female that he's more involved in either fighting or showing off to truly doing anything about it. Or he's been around females so much that being lonely with one just isn't a delight anymore. Make use of your decision.
Normally after a fish is beaten up, it's fine to give them sufficient time to recuperate from whatever wounds they received, but torn fins aren't generally a trouble.

Water Chemistry of the Aquariums

Betta fish are a better bet as pets than goldfish. Most kids have this experience with goldfish after a few days: Moby is found floating at the top of the bowl, then gets a one-way tour of a toilet's plumbing system. This speedy demise occurs because goldfish don't like being kept in a bowl. However, betta fish, also called Siamese fighting fish, think bowls are great homes.
Water in bowls quickly turns foul and oxygen-deficient, and that's when goldfish begin to fail, Dave Taub explains. He owns Contemporary Aquarium Design in Coral Springs, Fla. But betta fish are different, says Taub, who has been breeding them for 14 years. They have a lung-like organ called a labyrinth that allows them to come to the surface and take a breath. (Taub has known betta fish to be kept in everything from pickle jars to candle holders.)
But betta fish aren't dubbed Siamese fighting fish for their ability to fight off polluted water - it's because they fight off each other. In the wild, they live in rice patties in the countries of the Far East, such as Vietnam, Thailand and Malaysia. They carve out small territories and defend them at all costs. You'll be an accessory to a fish murder if you add a betta fish to a bowl already containing one.
Betta fish are available at many pet stores for $3-$5. They're about the size of a typical goldfish, though their dainty fins make them appear larger. They come in a kaleidoscope of color combos, including shades of blues, greens and reds. Not great swimmers, they're content to gently fan the water with those graceful fins. Their diet includes a combination of at least two of the following: live or frozen bloodworms, frozen mosquito larvae, freeze-dried brine shrimp or commercial diet for betta fish. (These foods are available at many pet stores.)
Fancy aquariums may be a tank of dreams, but fuss-free bowl fish are the new trend. We're not talking goldfish, but rather betta fishes, otherwise known as Siamese fighting fish.
They come in deep jewel-tone colors, have showy exotic fins and breathe air off the top of the water, according to Garrett Young of Golden Leash & Fish in Arlington. Bettas, like goldfish, can exist in bowls or tanks without air pumps. With bettas, however, familiarity breeds contempt. "You can only have one betta per bowl," warned Kim Jetton of Fish & Pets in Arlington. "They will fight each other until one of them dies."
Serenely segregated bettas can live a very long time, some as long as six years. Most bettas are done in by their owners forgetting to add a chemical chlorine remover whenever the bowl water is changed.
Filter Media is the element employed in a filtration method to clean the water of an aquarium. Several types of filter media are accessible, and each is considered to aid a particular type of system. Following are some of the different types of filter media:
Synthetic Wool - A cotton-wool like floss positioned as the final layer in your filter arrangement to clean the water. Because of its excellent structure, it get choked up very quickly and so is impractical for utilization in a primary automatic filter or for organic colonization.
Sponge - These conventional foam pads are cheap and easy to sustain. They are obtainable in changeable grades to make possible automatic or organic filtration. Sponges are also regularly utilized in external filters to detach various filter media.
Carbon - This is an extremely permeable material. It is only effectual for a short time before have the need of replacement. Carbon should be utilized in particular circumstances such as the requirement to get rid of medication , a new aquarium set-up or water discoloration. It should be positioned as the last layer in your filter arrangement.
Ceramics Rings - Measuring just about half an inch long, ceramic rings mostly make available automatic filtration. They act efficiently as a filter to trap large-particles waste and should be utilized in the initial stage of filtration.
Sintered Glass - At the same time as common aquarium gravel can give successful mechanical and organic filtration, its application is limited for the reason of its comparatively low surface area in contrast to the volume it occupies. Sintered glass, a gravel-like substance, is a far more capable alternative as it has a huge surface area that permits massive bacteria colonies to develop. Sintered glass must be positioned after the crucial automatic filtration media.

Identification and Treatment of Dropsy in Freshwater Aquarium Fish

Question about Dropsy:
I posted about a female Siamese fighting fish (Betta) that appeared to have dropsy a few weeks ago. I treated her twice with Maracyn. After the swelling didn't start to go down, but she is still as swollen as she was then, but has not got to the point were her scales have started to protrude? Do you know what else that it could be. She seems buoyant and the swollen cavity appears to be filled by either air, of a clear liquid, when she swims in front of the lights?
Answer:
Have you tried Kanacyn? Maracyn (Erythromycin) is usually not effective for most causes of Dropsy. And dropsy is generally a symptom of something else, sometimes digestive, often kidney related. Because of this, Dropsy can often be very difficult to treat, especially if caught in an advanced case in the fish. What the aquarist often observes is a "pinecone" swelling generally caused by fluid building inside the body cavity, for this reason, reducing this swelling is an important step in effecting a cure. This said, besides treatment for a possible underlying infection, you want to take steps to remove the swelling.

Here are the steps I would take:

*Change water! (25% should be fine)

*Perform a medicated bath with Methylene Blue. To prepare this bath I use 1 teaspoon 2.303% solution per 5 gallons (double dose) in a bath of aquarium water from the tank the fish you wish to treat came from, I usually use about a ½ gallon of water, however you may use less. Measurement of the Methylene Blue does not need to be precise as this bath should be used for about 30 minutes (although do NOT overdose). Make sure you keep the water in a warm area, as in a cold room the water temperature can drop rapidly which would stress the fish. Do not pour this water back into your display aquarium when finished. This can be performed twice per day.

*Add one tablespoon of regular salt (sodium chloride) per 5 gallons of tank water and ¼ to ½ teaspoon of Epsom salts per 5 gallons of tank water. Add a Wonder Shell (trace element block) or similar product to add needed calcium. What these minerals will do is add electrolytes and change (and improve) the osmotic balance of the fish vs. the surrounding water to hopefully pull fluids thru the body thus reducing swelling.

*Treat tank water with Kanamycin (Kanaplex), or possibly with Neomycin or Nalidixic Acid.

Here is more info about aquarium medications: Aquarium Medications; treatments, how they work, and which ones to use and not to use

Prevention:

The aeromonas bacteria (that is often present in healthy aquariums) can cause infections that will manifest this way in poor water conditions. So maintaining a healthy aquarium with regular water changes, good filtration (if possible, this is why I see more cases of Dropsy in Betta kept in a bowl), good feeding practices (not over feeding and using quality foods), and maintaining proper water parameters (ammonia and nitrites 0, kH 80 ppm, nitrates under 40 ppm). All this goes a long way in prevention of Dropsy and other diseases.

A proper diet makes a large difference here. Do not feed your fish meat based proteins, I recommend aquatic based proteins such as white fish meal, shrimp or even the proteins found in spirulina algae.

As a basic diet I recommend Sanyu or Hikari Betta Gold (there are many other quality foods as well, although I do not recommend flake foods for bettas as their staple diet) Poor quality proteins (or better; unusable amino acids for fish) can lead to digestive problems or Renal failure, which can lead to the symptoms of Dropsy. All proteins are made up of amino acids, some are usable (by fish), and some are not. Those that are not are disposed of by kidneys in the fish. This can lead to renal failure or infection. For more information about proper nutrition, see this article: "Quality Fish Food; What ingredients are needed for proper fish nutrition, growth and health". Also always soak all dry foods in water for 5 minutes prior to feeding as this will remove air that can lead to infections of the digestive tract. I would recommend this as a basic diet for your Betta: Sanyu Betta Gold

For further & expanded information and pictures, please see this article: "Aquarium Answers; DROPSY in fish; prevention, causes, and possible treatment of this symptom. "

Betta Fish Care - Ways To Keep A Healthy, Beautiful Fish

Because betta fish can be kept in relatively simple containers as opposed to large aquariums with complicated filtration systems, many people are attracted to them as easy to care for, yet beautiful tropical fish. But betta fish care does require some frequent work to keep the fish happy and healthy.
The first key to betta fish care is to give your fish at least a little space. Yes, they can be kept alive in those little jars they sell them in at the pet stores, but imagine how happy you'd be if confined to a space so small you couldn't move. Bettas kept in very small containers often grow listless and may lose color over time. While your fish does not require a tremendous amount of space, you do want it to have enough room to swim around a bit. A one to two gallon fish bowl works nicely. In addition, since Bettas do breathe at the surface from time to time, you want to make sure there is sufficient space at the surface for your fish to do that.

It should be noted that bettas can jump, so it is important to put some type of cover over the top of your container (as long as it is not airtight!) to keep your fish in the water.

The next part of betta fish care that is critical to the health of the fish is to keep the container and water very clean. Part of keeping the container clean is to use care when feeding your fish. Excess food will accumulate at the bottom and cause bacterial growth and cloud the water. I suggest feeding your fish with the standard betta food pellets by dropping in just one pellet at a time, perhaps 3 or 4 times per day. Not only will this help keep the container clean, it will also prevent overfeeding which can cause swim bladder problems which can kill betta fish.

Frequent water changes are important to keep toxins from building up. Small containers should have at least one third of their water changed at least twice per week. Larger containers with one to two gallons of water or more can be done once per week, with about half the water being changed out.

When changing the water, there are various test kits, water treatment chemicals, aging techniques, etc. that can be used to remove toxic substances like chlorine and to establish the preferred neutral pH of the water. There is a much simpler trick to betta fish care with regards to water though. You can buy ordinary distilled water and not have to test or treat it at all. Distilled water is free of contaminants and has a neutral pH - perfect for your betta fish, and much simpler than trying to get your tap water to the right chemical balance! Just be sure to get DISTILLED water instead of spring water, drinking water, etc., in order to ensure purity and the correct pH.

Good betta fish care also involves keeping the water warm - about 75 or 80 degrees. Bettas come from tropical regions and do not like it when the water temperature is too low.

Decorations in the container are desirable, as betta fish like to rest on objects off the bottom. Be sure to choose objects that do not have any sharp edges, as these can tear up the betta's delicate fins. Real or artificial plants can be used, but with artificial plants be sure the material is soft, again to avoid fin damage.

The tips you now have will give you the basics to keep your betta healthy. A bright, active fish will be the outcome of good betta fish care.

Choosing Your Own Healthy Betta Fish

Betta fish, also known as Siamese fighting fish, make wonderful pets. They take less care, maintenance and space than many other pets, and are more reasonably prices. They also do not require a large investment in materials and accessories to get started. More importantly, they are very beautiful and fun to watch, as they will learn to respond to you. Males have the most brilliant colors and so make the most beautiful pets. Never put two males together, however, as they will most likely fight. If this happens, they will damage each other and one may actually kill the other.
Choosing a healthy fish at the pet store will go a long way towards making the experience of owning bettas the best is can be.

Go to a reputable pet store and check the surroundings. The cups or bags should be mostly clean and full of living bettas. The water should be clear and fresh, and there should be no bad odors.

Check the betta’s fins. Make sure they are in good shape, not torn or damaged. Also, check the gills. They should be flat and smooth, no peeling.

Check the eyes. A healthy betta has clear eyes. If they are dull, sunken or bulging, pass that fish by.

The body should not have any bumps (parasites) or white patches (fungus infection). The scales should be smooth and flat, not loose or missing. Healthy fish have bright, vivid colors. Avoid those that are dull or pale in color. If the stomach is swollen, it’s probably a sign of a sick fish. Avoid it.

Check its behavior. The fish should be floating upright unless it is sleeping. Move your hand gently towards the container. A healthy betta is very alert and should react in some way to the movement.

If most of the fish seem healthy and happy, then look for that special betta that appeals to you. Once you have found him, be gentle with his container when checking out and taking him home. The less shaking, the less stressed he will be. And the less stressed the betta is, the quicker he will start eating, show good color and learn to like you.

5 tips on proper Betta fish care

The Betta has quickly become one of the most popular freshwater fish in the aquarium trade. In just a few short years, these reatures have gone from a well-kept secret among serious entusiasts, to being found in nearly every office and household, offered for sale in every pet store or major chain store in America.
Betta is a tank fish and its maintenance is quite easy. However, it does need some care and you should be attentive to its heath. A sick Betta is easy to spot since naturally the fish is very active and vibrant. If you have had the fish for a while you will be able to spot immediately when they feel sick.

Following tips can help you keep the Betta fish healthy and active:

1. A bowl large enough to allow ample swimming space is a necessity. The fish shouldn't bump and tear its fins or scales. A large enough tank also ensures that the water has adequate oxygen level. That's why it is recommended to buy a 3-gallon tank for the Betta to have plenty of room. Keep the bowl or tank away from sources of hot and cold air such as heaters, cold or sunny windows, drafts, etc. It's is important that the fish container be kept cool at about 65 to 75 degrees F.

2. Betta fish do not require filtration but need the cleanest water you can provide them. Change the water every three days or so to keep it clean and prevent infection in your fish. The water you add to the tank should have set out for 24 hours, to release some of the chemicals. Avoid buying water from Walmart! Betta owners report that Walmart's water is not neutral and betta can die quickly. Walmart water never gets treated, the ammonia is so high and pH and all that stuff so when you add it to the tank it is so new to the fish that it puts them in shock and kills them.

3. Ensure that the bottom of the bowl or tank is debris free. You can use something as simple as a turkey baster to do this cleaning. Debris sitting at the bottom will make the water cloudy and unhygienic for the fish. They will also cause the water to smell. When cleaning the tank accessories, avoid using soap because traces of soap will change the water pH.

4. Bettas are also called Siamese fighting fish because the male of the species will fight each other to the death. They are highly territorial animals and will react violently if two are placed in the same container. Avoid putting two males in the same tank. Females can stay together and so can one male with many females. You can also keep your Betta with guppies.

5. Pet stores usually don't carry female bettas, because they tend to be less colorful and showy than the males. Also, people are usually just looking for a nice pet, not a breeding hobby. If this is your intention, then I suggest doing some serious research before you start!

If you are looking for more useful tips on proper Betta fish care, please visit my betta fish guide blog, or go directly to the section with fish breeding advice.

Betta Fish Care - Seven Hot Tips On How To Care For Betta Fish

Sure everyone loves Goldfish but there are a very similar type of highly colored and active fish that are just as easy to care for. I'm talking about Betta fish, also known as Siamese Fighting Fish. Hailing from the Mekong river in Asia these beautiful fish usually grow to about 6cm in length although some may reach 8cm's or more. One little known fact is that their natural color is actually a dark green and brown. We see the bright colored ones today simply because of selective breeding by breeders from around the world.
Betta fish are very easy to care for and this makes them a great choice for people who have busy lifestyles and wish to keep pet fish. Below are seven hot tips to keep your Betta fish in tip top shape.

Number 1 - Simple Monitoring

After you've had your Betta fish for a while you will soon recognize their behaviors and activities. You will soon be able to see if your Betta fish are poorly. If your fish seem lethargic measure the temperature of the water. Too cold and your fish will seem listless. The ideal water temperature should be about 28 degrees centigrade (approximately 82 Fahrenheit).

Number 2 - Keep The Water Clean

This may sound obvious to some but your Betta fish need clean water. You shouldn't need a water filter but try to change at least a quarter of the tanks water twice a week. This will insure that it stays nice and clean and will help to keep away any infections. Try not to use water straight out of the cold tap but leave it out for a day at least to let it settle. Be sure to use a PH testing kit (you can get these from your favorite pet store) and try to keep the PH at around 7.0.

Number 3 - Size Matters!

When choosing a tank make sure it will be large enough for your Betta fish to swim around comfortably. A 20 litre tank is ideal. Sharp rocks and stones should be avoided. You don't want your pride and joy to rip or tear any of his/her fins.

Number 4 - Keep A Lid On It

Betta fish like to jump! Knowing this try to keep the water level approximately 6 centimetres below the top of your tank. This, along with the lid, should stop your fish flipping themselves onto the table for your cat to find. DO NOT use an air tight lid! Bettas can take oxygen direct from the waters surface so make sure there are good air holes in the lid.

Number Five - Fish Need Friends Too

It is a wise idea never to keep other Betta fish in the same tank. They are not called Siamese fighting fish for nothing! Try not to keep mirrors or shiny surfaces near the tank as they will flare up at the slightest sign of another Betta, even if it's themselves. Male Bettas tend to be the worst for this type of behavior. It may be fun to watch but all you will do is stress your fish and decrease its lifespan. You can keep other fish with your Bettas. Loaches, platies (or moons) and Cory catfish are ideal tankmates.

Number 6 - Cleaning

Never (and we mean never) use soap or detergents to clean out your fish tank. Simply use a plastic brush and warm water to scrub any rocks or decorations you may have. To remove any old food from the bottom of the tank try using a pipette or a kitchen baster. This will ensure your tank stays nice and fresh and doesn't smell.

Number 7 - Food

Your Betta fish will absolutely love live food such as brine shrimp or bloodworms. Feeding them live food will keep them active and it is great fun to watch them gobbling them all up. For variety try feeding them on thinly chopped vegetables like broccoli, carrots and soybeans. They will enjoy these just as much as live food. Feeding your Bettas on a wider range of food will help them to live longer.

Betta Fish Breeding Guide

Some fish owners want to become betta fish breeding experts. While there's certain difference in the amount of knowledge experts and advanced betta lovers have, when it comes to betas they are rather easy to breed.
The betta fish is hardy and can live in diverse conditions, so the first thing to do is to find a female betta.

It's not as simple as it sounds. Most pet stores have only male bettas on sale, because they are more vibrant and flamboyant. Female betta fish are pretty dull compared to their male counterparts. However, if you ask your local pet store nicely, you may be pointed in the right direction. Otherwise, search on the web.

Female betas have one certain advantage over male betas they can live together peacefully, while two males will begin fighting. That's just how nature works, nothing to be done here.

So when you've got a couple of female bettas in your tank, start feeding them normally, as you would feed any betta. Betta fish breeding assume females must be healthy, or they won't spawn. And health comes from food, naturally. When the diet regime is right, you may notice that male betta started building a bubble nest, and that the female betta started to look decidedly plumper.

Here comes your part. No, you should never leave betas to do their things their own way. Your help may be required! Male betta can attack the female too vigorously with his amorous activities. To protect the female betta, you may need to separate it from the male counterpart for a couple of days for the fish to recover.

When they are ready to breed, you'll notice what is called 'hugging'; the male betta will wrap the female fertilizing the eggs with his sperm as she produces them.

Then the male betta will start placing the eggs in the bubble nest he'd built. For the next days, he will be looking after it and scooping up the eggs that occasionally pop out of the nest. That's his daddy duty. Quite fascinating to watch really! By this time, you can scoop the female betta out of the tank since that's it for her, really.

After about 2-3 days, small fry will begin emerging in the bubble nest. Small betas need to stay in the nest for over a day because their gills aren't developed enough.

When you see the little betas swim independently, be sure to remove their daddy from the tank, or he can devour the brood… such things happen.

Feeding the baby fish is difficult. Some people engaged in breeding betta fish say that no matter what the do, the young generation dies. I believe this has something to do with the water conditions. In the wild the water isn't as pure as it is sold in pet stores. Natural water contains all kinds of microscopic little beasties and flora that is hard to maintain in a fish tank.

Take some large jar (that allows plenty of oxygen to dissolve in the water), fill it with some water from the tank, and put in some straw (you may use grass as well, but you never know what kind of pesticides were used on it). Leave the jar where there is direct sunlight. After about 2-4 days you will see the water filling itself with all kinds of crippling creatures. Harvest an ounce or two from the top, and then put it straight into the tank with baby betta fish.

After about two weeks or so, you may start feeding young bettas with other stuff like crushed flake food and I mean finely crushed. Small betas don't need much food a tiny pinch would suffice.

By about 7 weeks, young betas would have reached about 1 inch in size. This is the time to separate them into individual small jars. As time goes by, you should be able to tell the male and female betas apart. So as you see betta fish breeding involves quite some efforts, but it's worth that.

Kelly Wright writes articles on betta fish breeding, care, and feeding. Visit betta fish blog for more great tips which will help you in your hobby, or go directly to betta breeding guide for a detailed set of instructions.

betta fish can be fun

empty handed, having to eat fast food instead of delicious steamed trout, then this will be the most important message you read today
Let me tell you why

There is more to fishing than you might have first thought. To be more precise, there's more to the fish themselves and how they think, than you would have ever even considered

Understanding How Fish Think Is The Key To Successful Fishing

Admittedly this message is quite long, but by the end of it you'll have discovered more secrets to fishing for trout than you can poke a rod at. It will be worthwhile for you I promise

But I should introduce myself first. and I have been an angler now for 23 years. At the tender age of 10 I made my first cast and I've been in love with the sport ever since. I've done it all from bay fishing to stream fishing, but it was 11 years ago that I was introduced to spinner fishing for Trout. I was hooked! -- I literally have not fished any other way since. When I go out, I catch a fish on every single trip. In fact, I'm much closer to cracking-the-code on catching a trout with...

I don't have a 100% cast to catch success rate, but I'm damn close. Even the people I have taught have had incredible success. I recently went fishing with a good friend's wife, who had never even touched a rod before. She caught a trout on her very first fishing trip.

Keeping Tropical Fish In An Apartment

As a working professional and a kinda hectic commute and living in the city of New York it would really be unfair for me and other people to have cats or dogs. Don't get me wrong I know a lot of people that do and god bless them. Well even though rent has sky rocketed a lot of places still do not allow cats or dogs. So a great alternative that is relatively easy, own tropical fish.
If you don't have a lot of time I would get very easy care level tropical fish which are as followed; Swordtails, Danio, Platy, Betta, Guppies, Tetras, Goldfish. I would also recommend getting an algae eater or two for the tank so you have to do less cleaning such as a snail, suckermouth cats or Plecos. Plecos for bigger tanks of course even though they could go in a 10 gallon tank since they only grow to the size of there environment.
Now depending on your apartment size is the size tank you should get, but also remember that the bigger the tank more problems could come up. So in general I would not get a tank any bigger then 30 Gallons. That could be still a nice amount of fish you could get between 22 to 30 fish. Also most landlords do not mind tropical fish since they do not damage furniture or walls. Well that being said if you have a small apartment like I do I would only get an up to 10 Gallon tank which could have up to 10 fish. I also have a 1 and an half gallon but that has my Betta in it.
Also when buying a tank now a days I would get an aquarium complete kit, which comes with a heater, even though you should buy two. I would explain in a later article why you should do that, a fish net, and a filter and hood with lighting.
What is also great about owning a fish tank there is no smell, and it would add light and a nice relaxing atmosphere to the apartment.
Also remember to get an electronic vacuum they are great. You do not need a bucket like the hand types or air type aquarium vacuums. Even though you should still have a bucket when you do your water changes for your aquarium.
Also get live plants into your tank that would help keep is oxenize the water and if you are gone to long the fish could eat the plants. If you are gone for a long time unlike dogs and cats you do not need a sitter there are long time feeders available to place in your tank depending if you are gone to long. Also when you are not there for a while if you keep the lights off the fish would not eat as much.
Also you don't have to walk your fish. By the way the only tropical fish that could last more then 8 seconds out of fish is the Betta but not much longer so you can't even if you wanted to sorry. Hey at least you do not have to scoop up the poop off the street either.

Betta fish - The First Step of Betta Fish Care

Betta fish - Home Preparation

Ok, so you've bought a betta, and now you need to know how to care for it! Let's start by setting up a great home for the betta.

In the wild the betta, or Siamese Fighting Fish as you'll see them called sometimes live in rice bogs in Thailand. These bogs are pretty choked by rice plants and don't have a lot of moving water. This makes the betta able to live in pretty small places, as you see by the little cups they're sold in!

It's a good idea to give your betta a bit bigger tank, though. This will help keep the tank from getting choked with waste so fast. A five-gallon tank is great for a betta and still pretty small. If you go bigger then you might want to pick up another kind of fish to share the space with your betta. We'll go over what types of fish make good tank mates later.

One of the cool things about bettas is that they can pull oxygen both from the air and the water. Since they can do that you don't need to worry about an extensive filter system or live plants in the tank. The betta can breathe off of the top. If you're putting in other kinds of fish then pay attention to what their needs are.

Put some colored gravel, fake plants, tank decorations, and a small cave structure in the tank. Bettas like to hide on occasion and they'll appreciate having something to duck under. Be careful to avoid jagged rocks on the bottom, though. Bettas' fins are sensitive and sharp rocks will cut them up. Avoid hard plastic plants for the same reason.

When you add the water make sure to treat any water you take from the tap. Get a water conditioner at your local pet store. This will take the chlorine and heavy metals out of the water, as they're not good for your betta. Even if you let the water stand for a period of time as is often recommended it's still a good idea to use a water conditioner. That will make sure that everything is cleared out.

Add some aquarium salt (different from table salt!) and/or some fish destressing conditioner to the water. This will provide a tonic effect for your betta and help the fish settle in to its new tank. Travel and transferring locations is stressful on your fish. A little preparation on your part can help your fish live much longer.

Find a cover for your tank or only fill it 75%-80% full. Bettas are famous jumpers, which is exciting but means that they could hit the floor if you don't do something to keep them in. You can even cover the top with some plastic wrap in a pinch, but make sure to punch some holes in it to allow air transfer.

As far as water temperature goes you're going to be looking for a range of 75-81 degrees Fahrenheit. If you can't maintain a temperature that high then purchase a small heater for the tank. It's important to keep the water a consistent temperature, and if you live in anywhere colder than Thailand the room temperature may be too cold for your betta.

Before putting the betta into the tank make sure to keep it in the bag you brought it home in and float that in the aquarium for 20 minutes or so. This allows the temperature to equalize so it's not so shocking to the betta. After the bag sits for the 20 minutes pour a little bit of aquarium water into it every ten minutes or so. This will help the betta adjust to the change in water.

Finally you're ready to add your betta to the tank! Just make sure that you DON'T put the water from the bag into the tank. Pet store water is notorious for being full of all kinds of nasty stuff that can contaminate your tank. Instead scoop your betta out carefully with a small net. Be careful not to damage its fins and place it in the tank. Allow it to swim out of the net with a little shake and your fish has a new home!

Bettas are great pets and with a little bit of care they can enjoy a long life! with betta fish