Breeding Betta Fish - An Essential Guide

When you decide to breed your Betta Fish, the first step is to make sure you are ready. It will take time, money, space for around fifty jars to separate males, a secure pond with no other fish and a good level of experience caring for Bettas already.
Presuming the answer is yes; the next step is to obtain a female. This can be difficult, as few stores sell them. Once you have both, don't leave them in the same tank. Start with cheap Bettas, to avoid wasting lots of money. Later on, after you become an expert, you can try to breed your own masterpieces. Look for fish with some energy to increase the chances of spawning. The chosen fish should be between seven and eighteen months old, and a spare pair just in case is also a wise precaution.
Prepare the mating tank, ten gallons is about right. Don't add much decorations or gravel, but some large leafed plants will help the female hide from the male. The temperature should be around eighty degrees and the depth about six inches until the fry, or baby fish, begin swimming. Normally, you wouldn't worry about air filtration with Bettas, but the fry will require it. However, they cannot handle a powerful filter. The old-fashioned box type, powered by an air pump is best, and the carbon filter that came with the pump is not acceptable. Instead, use floss or sponges. This is to avoid bad reactions between the carbon and an anti-fungal treatment. It is wise to let the pump operate through a complete cycle before fish are exposed to it to allow bacteria to grow.
Begin feeding the fish high quality food. One breeder recommends the following sequence: BettaMin, Freeze Dried Blood Worms, some live or frozen brine shrimp, then a few live Black Worms. Others swear by tubifex worms and other combinations. Do not overfeed, as this will still force you to clean the tank and replace the water more often. Change twenty percent of the water in each tank each day to help prevent this and encourage the fish to get ready to breed. The male should be in the breeding tank, and should be able to see the female in her tank. He should begin to build a bubble nest.
With the high quality food, the female should begin to plump up as eggs are produced. With lighter colored breeds you can sometimes see the eggs, and the fish should produce horizontal stripes when ready. If that isn't showing, look near the anal fin for a white gravid tube. If this is showing, she is ready.
Now comes the key moment. Plan for at least an hour when you can be present to supervise. Put the female in the water with the male. There can be some rough treatment, including some mutual fin nipping or even worse behavior. If it gets too rough, remove the female and plan to wait a few days to let her recover, but if you don't give them a chance, there won't ever be any fry. If all goes well, they will conduct what is called an embrace, and she will produce eggs under the bubble nest. He will fertilize them and begin to care for the eggs. The female should be removed now, lest she become fish food.
For the next two days, the male will keep the eggs cleaned and in the bubble nest, recovering any that fall. Then come the fry. For about thirty-six hours, they'll be unable to move out of the tank. Around two days after hatching, the first fry will begin to swim without help. At this point, remove the male fish lest the fry become fish food. A day after the fry hatch, they need their first feeding, and baby brine shrimp, daphnia, microworms, or liquid fry food for egg layers are good choices. They'll need feeding up to five times a day.
Now comes the hard part. Many experienced breeders say this can only be done in a suitable pond. The temperature must be above at least 68 and preferably 70 degrees. There must be no fish to eat the fry, and a variety of tiny aquatic creatures to eat.
After about ten days, they can take a little powdered food. This is a small amount of very finely crushed flake food. They should be about a quarter of an inch long. At about four weeks, they should be around a half inch long, and should begin to show sexual dimorphism, so you can tell the males from the females. Separate the males from each other before fighting begins.

Beware of These Common Betta Fish Illnesses

Betta fish make fun and beautiful pets, but more than likely your betta fish is going to get sick at some point in time. It is important that you are prepared to treat your betta when he is sick and this includes being aware of various diseases that affect betta fish, their symptoms, and how you can treat them. Once you know the basics of betta fish diseases you will be better prepared to recognize and treat your betta to prevent the disease becoming too serious or even fatal. The following are five of the most common diseases that affect betta fish.
Tail or Fin Rot
Tail rot and fin rot are common betta diseases that are caused by water that becomes too dirty. You can actually prevent this disease from ever affecting your fish if you are careful to always keep their water clean. As a general rule this is an easy condition to treat and it does not seem to be contagious either. If you treat your fish as soon as possible you will be able to stop the progression of the disease and their tails and fins will grow back.
Some of the symptoms to look for include the betta's tail and fins getting shorter and shorter. Their fins may also start to have a darker color and they may appear as if they are dissolving or actually falling apart. While some betta's may not even act sick, others may stop eating, get clumped fins, and start looking pale.
Thankfully treating tail and fin rot is fairly easy and will provide results in a few weeks. For treatment you will need to do a full jar water change and use Fungus Eliminator, as well as either tetracycline or Triple Sulfa. After the initial change you will need to be sure to change the water every three days and when you do you should add more medication to the water as well. It is important that you continue the treatment until you fish improves and you seen new fin and tail growth occurring. This may take a few weeks, so continue the treatment until your fish improve.
Ick
Another very common disease in betta fish is ick. Ick is actually a type of parasite and many times it is present in frozen food that is live. Although ick is one of the most contagious betta diseases, it can be treated. You can prevent your fish from getting ick by adding Aquarisol and salt to your fish's water.
If you start to see white dots appearing on your betta's body, including the head and even his eyes, this is a sign that your fish has ick. More than likely your beta will also become much less active than before and may appear sick and have clumped fins as well. They may feel itchy, so you may see them darting and rubbing against rocks in their tanks.
Since ick is such a contagious disease it is best to go ahead and treat the entire tank of fish for disease. Ick is very sensitive to temperature, so you should raise the temperature in your tank to about 85 degrees F. For every gallon in your tank, add one drop of Aquarisol every single day until your fish are better. Usually it will only take a few days to get rid of this disease.
Dropsy
Dropsy is actually the most common disease among bettas and it is also the most likely to be fatal to your fish as well. While not a great deal is known about this disease many feel that it is linked to live foods, and it especially seems linked to feeding them the black worms. Many people have found that they can prevent dropsy all together by not allowing their fish to eat black worms.
The symptoms of dropsy are quite easy to recognize and they include a bloated belly and scales that appear as if they are raised. The raised scales may actually appear very similar to a pine cone.
Unfortunately there is not a known cure for this betta fish disease. It is, however, very important that you isolate the betta that appears to have dropsy as soon as possible so the other fish will not contract the disease.
Swim Bladder Disorder
Another very common disease that betta's may get is swim bladder disorder. This actually comes as a result from feeding them too much. This disease is not contagious, and as a general rule it affects the younger bettas if they have eaten to much or have become very stressed.
If you see a betta that is having a hard time swimming, seems off balance, or prefers to just lay near the bottom, there is a good chance they are suffering from swim bladder disorder. Many times you will see them just sliding along on the bottom of the tank as well.
Many times you will find that your betta will recover by himself, but it is probably a good idea to not feed them as much for a few days. It is also helpful to eliminate brine shrimp from their diet as well, as this can actually cause part of the problem. In the future, try to be sure that you feed your fish a balanced diet to prevent this from happening again.
These are just a few of the common betta fish diseases that you my deal with in your bettas. Other diseases that bettas may have to deal with include external parasites, bacterial infection, fungal infection, depression, and velvet. Having medications on hand such as tetracyclin, Ampicillin, jungle fungus eliminator, and maracin 1 and 2. Just taking some simple preventive measures can help keep your fish from developing many of these diseases, but it important to know what to do if these diseases occur in your fish.

Choosing Plants for Your Betta Fish Tank

Betta fish use plants as a defensive strategy in their natural environments. This allows them to avoid contact with predators and other male Bettas Nervous or threatened-feeling Bettas will squeeze through close together plants to escape danger. Because of this, it is important to include some kind of plant in your Betta's tank, to reduce stress and allow it to feel that it can hide. While some people prefer artificial plants in their aquariums, live plants help to take care of harmful chemical byproducts in the tank, such as ammonia, nitrite and nitrates. They also perform the important function of gas exchange, keeping the water more oxygenated than an environment without plants or with artificial plants. Soft and leafy plants are preferred, to prevent damage to the Betta's scales should it squeeze between leaves or branches.
Plants do require light, however. An aquarium with live plants should have either access to sunlight or a light built into the hood. Some plants which are recommended for use with Betta fish are the floating Water Sprite, Hornwort, and Elodea. Tiger Lotus is considered good for use in tanks with breeding Bettas since it puts out a lily-pad-like leaf that sits on the surface of the water. Male Bettas use this leaf to shelter their bubble nests. Be sure to keep an eye on your Betta tank's plants, since dead and rotting vegetation can be bad for the water quality. Java Moss and Java Ferns can thrive in uncycled bowls without any filtration. They also require low to medium light, and are thus suitable for aquariums or enclosures that cannot be put close to a window.
Live plants for your Betta tank can be found locally from some aquarium stores or ordered from the Internet. All plants should be bright green and very healthy looking. They should also be quarantined before placing them in with the fish, to make sure that they do not carry diseases or parasites that could harm your Betta Be sure to acquire plants from a reputable source. It is wise to do some research into your supplier before purchasing live plants for your Betta tank. Bettas tend to interact more with live plants than with artificial plants. Many types of artificial plants are also rough and could damage fins and scales. Unlike fake plants, real ones will also sway attractively in the water as the fish swims through them. When the time comes to clean the tank, some plants can be gently removed and rinsed if this is desired. This is particularly easy when using free floating plants like the Java fern.

Anatomy of the Japanese Fighting Fish

The fish most commonly known as Bettas are a species of the genus Betta called Betta splendens. Like other Bettas, these fish can survive in very small bodies of fresh water, thanks to a special organ called the labyrinth. Because of this organ, which allows them to breathe atmospheric air, they are able to thrive in low oxygen water, including puddles, ditches, slow streams and rice paddies. Bettas are about two to two and a half inches long and live, on average, for about four years. Some specimens have lived up to a decade in laboratory settings.
Historically, Bettas have been used in some Asian countries for a sport rather like cockfighting. Because of this, they are also known as Siamese fighting fish. The specimens used for this sport were bred to be short-finned and very aggressive. Modern Bettas are more likely to be showy, decorative animals. Originally, only the males of the species showed the bright colors that are synonymous with Bettas, but recent strains have produced bright, showy females as well.
Female Bettas are the same general size and conformation as males, but have shorter fins. In males, the pelvic fins in particular are very long and extended. Specialized types of male Bettas with particularly unusual tails have been bred, including the crowntail, double tail, and halfmoon tail Bettas. As male Bettas age, the tail becomes larger, longer, and heavier. Eventually, this causes the fish to become sluggish, and it will eventually lose the tail. It will grow back, but not look exactly the same, and the loss of the tail rejuvenates the fish.
Betta fish are carnivores. Their mouths are full of rows of tiny pointed teeth. Despite the sharpness of these teeth, the males routinely carry eggs in their mouths without causing any damage. In captivity, they eat homogenized Betta pellets or bloodworms and brine shrimp. Many aquarium-bred fish will also accept flaked tropical fish food.
Male Bettas raise their babies. They build bubble nests for this purpose, and will even do so if there are not females or babies around. They do this by manipulating bubbles of air with their mouths into nests of various sizes and thicknesses at the top of the water. Many Bettas prefer some sort of shelter, such as vegetation, for their bubble nests.
The lower half of the Betta's anatomy is mostly swim bladder, flesh and bone. The internal organs are located between the head and the beginning of the anal fin. This fin is the large fin on the lower half of the fish's body, in front of the tail. The other fins are called the dorsal, pectoral, and pelvic fins. Bettas also have gill covers, which they may flap open in response to a perceived threat. Male Betta fish are famous for their displays when confronted with other males. They open their brightly colored fins and flap the gill covers in an attempt to look larger than they actually are.

Breeding Betta Fish - The Challenge!

The betta fish is among the most popular freshwater aquarium fish. Bettas are known as the "jewel of the orient" because of their brilliant colors. The males particularly sport long, flowing, beautiful fins. As a result, bettas in pet stores are usually males. People like the beautiful colors and usually purchase one at a time as "pets".
These fish are very aggressive. Males readily fight other males. Females may also fight.
Breeding betta fish is often a challenge taken up by betta fans.
1. Separate care of males and females.
It's necessary to distinguish between adult males and females, but it isn't always easy to do. It's important, since two males in close quarters will engage in fish-to-fish combat to the death. They don't get along very well with most other fish either! Very foul in disposition, aren't they?
Each male should be kept in his own bowl or tank. Two males in the same tank will usually fight until one is dead. Even a male and female should be together only briefly at spawning. Otherwise the male will often treat the female roughly and do permanent damage.
Several females can sometimes be kept in the same tank, provided there is plenty of room. However, there should be more than two females, otherwise one will dominate and continually chase the other female. Some aquatic plants in the tank make it easier for the fish to maintain some separation.
2. Water conditions.
The betta's native habitat is the vast, shallow freshwater paddies of Southeast Asia. The fish must have access to the surface of the water, since it takes oxygen directly from the atmosphere as well as through their gills. Since they can get oxygen from the surface, they can survive in smaller spaces and poorer condition than other aquarium fish. The little cups that the fish are purchased in at a pet store certainly aren't adequate. They actually do best in clean, filtered water.
Male fish are often kept in bowls of about one and one-half gallons without supplemental heat or oxygen. If kept like this, the water should be changed when it becomes cloudy, every one to two weeks. Or you can change about 20 percent of the water every day or two. Then every few weeks completely clean the tank including all the gravel.
The general recommendation is to allow about three gallons of water per fish. With a ten gallon tank three or four females would have plenty of room. It's recommended to have a minimum tank size of six gallons so a heater can be used. With smaller tanks a heater can cause more temperature variation than the fish can tolerate. The right water temperature is 75 - 84 degrees F. At those temperatures the fish will be quite active.
The fish can also do well at 65 - 75 degrees F, though they will not be as active at the lower temperature. Since they aren't as active at the cooler temperature, the bowls will stay cleaner.
3. Feeding your breeding betta fish.
Bettas are carnivorous, but can usually do well on food labeled for betta fish. The addition of live or frozen blood worms (mosquito larvae) and live or frozen shrimp brine is recommended. Most aquarium bred fish will also accept dried flaked aquarium tropical fish food.
Some breeders recommend black worms as supplemental feed especially for spawning females. Black worms are Lumbriculus variegatus. The worms can be kept in cool, clean, unchlorinated water. Some breeds of fish do not like these worms, but bettas prefer them.
4. Mating betta fish.
Males bettas build a nest of air bubbles for the baby fish or fry.
For spawning, a female is introduced into the male tank. If conditions are right for mating, the male fish will squeeze the female. Eggs will be expelled, then fertilized by the male. The eggs will float into the bubble nest. The female should then be removed to her tank to prevent her injury by the male fish. Even if spawning does not take place, the female should be removed.
The male fish will care for the eggs until the young emerge in a few days.
5. The fry.
The released little fish or fry are very tiny and vulnerable. Most often they are raised in special ponds where they feed on tiny microscopic living creatures. Some have success raising the fry in bowls or aquariums. But the conditions must be right, similar to the usual pond environment.

Tips For Buying A Healthy Betta

Tips For Buying A Healthy Betta
We all want a great looking Betta that won't die on us after just a few days. Here's a quick guide to help you find that healthy Betta.
First of all, make sure it's alive! I can't count the number of times I've seen dead Betta's sitting on pet store shelves.
Body
Look for bumps, or lumps of any kind anywhere on the body. A healthy Betta has smooth scales along its body. Any loose or missing scales are signs of sickness or previous trauma. A swollen stomach is also a clear sign of a sick Betta. If you notice any white patches anywhere on the body you're probably seeing fungus.
Fin and Gills
Although this may sometimes be difficult to tell at the pet store where many Betta's are stored in tiny bags or boxes, take a look at the fish's fins and gills. Betta fins should be able to expand fully with no holes, discolorations, or tears.
The Gills should be smooth with no discoloration or lumps.
Behavior
Bring your hand toward the Betta, without tapping the bowl or poking the bag the betta is stored in, but just close enough and make sure the Betta is alert. Healthy Betta's are alert and react to your movements. They may or may not flare at your movements.
Color
Unhealthy Betta's appear pale in color and may have discoloration along their face or body.
Keep in mind that this is only a guide. It's important to remember that a healthy Betta will only stay healthy if you treat it right. After you purchase that Betta it's up to you to keep it healthy, otherwise, your new Betta will end up on a magical journey down the toilet.

Sick Betta Fish - Betta Fish Constipation

Constipation
These notes are for educational purposes only. Attempts have been made to verify the accuracy of this document, but you should consult your normal qualified expert such as a Vet. If you decide to act on this information without consulting such an expert, you do so at your own volition as I cannot be held responsible for action you take. This said I have made it my business to check and re-check everything that has been inserted here.
Constipation is not what is commonly known as a disease, but it is pointed out here as betta fish commonly suffer from it. The symptoms to look out for are:
Lethargy/sluggishness
Swollen stomach
Lousy appetite
Over-feeding with foods such as flake foods, freeze dried bloodworms or brine shrimp can be the cause of your betta fish having constipation. While this food is okay, you should feed your bettas live food now and again, giving them a variety in the diet. In the wild the bettas eat insects and such, they wait until they see a hapless insect drop onto the surface of the shallow water they live in and quickly come to the surface to catch them. Therefore in order to maintain a healthy betta fish, you should not only feed them with the frozen or dried foods.
To remedy the constipation, instead of their normal food, for 24 - 48 hours feed them with small pieces of cooked skinless pea (get it from the pet store). Sometimes the betta will refuse to eat the pea, if that happens you will have to starve him for the allotted time as the fish needs to have his system cleaned out. If the pea feeding is successful you will plainly see the deposits on the floor of the aquarium and the swelling in your bettas' stomach will be reduced.
The pea acts as roughage and slowly does its job of cleaning out the bettas' system. Failing this treatment, all you will be able to do is wait and let nature take over.

Top 10 Frequently Asked Questions on Betta Fish Explained!

Betta Fish, arguably the most popular type of fish found in the home today across all the world. This astonishing fish displays a vibrant personality whilst posing the most magnificent colour and fin structure helping to create a truly jaw dropping aquarium that you can show off to your guests!
Originating from the paddy fields of Vietnam, Betta are an astounding fish and I will be answering in this article the 10 most popular questions I get asked on a regular basis about Betta Fish. So lets get started...
1. How do you stop Betta Fish from Fighting?
This is probably one of the most popular questions I get asked!
In my experience I've found a few ways that work...
One way is simply to get a bigger tank. With the bigger tank you can include a couple of new plants, bear in mind you don't want to over do it with the plants otherwise you will ruin your fish display (not very appealing to your guests!). By making the tank bigger and introducing a few more plants it creates extra hiding places for your Betta when the aggressive one is on the war path!
A second way is to simply separate the aggressive fish from the rest. This can be done by putting a divider into your tank, or by taking the aggressive fish out and putting it into a new tank. I would personally recommend putting a divider into your tank, size permitting of course, as your Betta will know the other Betta Fish are there. It also helps when it comes to the breeding process because introductions would have already been made.
Thirdly, you must NEVER, I repeat NEVER put a male Betta in with another male Betta Fish, period! Otherwise, they will fight to the death (this is why they are also known as Siamese Fighting Fish!). So by not keeping males together this will reduce fighting astronomically.
Female Betta's have been known to be aggressive and fight between each other, particularly if you have 2 together. However, this is just an "I'm the leader" thing going on between them and usually wears off , but a technique I've used and seen have great success to stop this happening is to add a 3rd female into the tank. By doing this any tension between the previous two is removed - try it, you'll be surprised how effective it is!
2. Can You Keep Male and Female Betta Fish Together?
Yes you can. However, I would recommend keeping a close eye on the male Betta just in case he becomes too aggressive and the female needs to be removed. As I mentioned above having plants in the tank can help the female hide if the male becomes aggressive.
3. How Do You Tell the Difference Between a Male and Female Betta Fish?
I always remember the saying "It's easy when you know how..." when I get asked this question because when I first started breeding Betta Fish it took me ages to recognise the difference between a male and a female...
You will tend to find that female Betta's have fat bellies where as males tend to have a more streamlined structure. Also, you will find that males have a longer body and fins whereas the females are shorter in body size and fin length.
Also, male Betta Fish tend to have more colour and longer pointed anal fins compared to their female counterparts (sorry ladies!). You will also find female anal fins are more level to their body. The anal fin is the rigid looking fin coming from the bottom of the Betta Fish.
However, one giveaway of a female is her white spot on the underside of her belly. This white spot is called the ovipositor and is used during the breeding process.
4. What are the Best Caring Tips for Betta Fish?
Lots of people have written books on the subject of caring for Betta Fish but I'm going to give you my best tips that I've picked up along the way...
- Test your water's acidity level regularly. A PH level of 7 works best in my experience.
- Always try and keep the water temperature at around 75-80 Fahrenheit. I would recommend testing this regularly using a floating thermometer because big drops in water temperature can cause stress on your fish. Floating thermometers in my experience give the best accuracy reading because they are kept in the tank water.
- Always keep a lid/cover over the top of your tank with air holes in it because Betta Fish can jump and you might not be there to catch them!
- Any filtration system should be kept at a low level and you must take care not to put the air intake in such a position that it could cause your Betta to get hurt. Having your filter system at a high setting has been known to cause stress to your Betta.
- Try and clean your tank regularly, ideally twice a week. Remove bits of food caught under the stones, castles or leaves of your tank.
- As a rule of thumb I recommend 3 quarters of a gallon per Betta fish in your tank. Also, try and get a spacious tank to allow your Betta plenty of room to show off their personality, you'll be surprised some are very exciting to watch!
I've always found if you love your Betta like you love your own then you won't go far wrong, and with implementing the above you will be well on your way to having truly astonishing Betta Fish.
5. What should I feed my Betta Fish?
Surprisingly, Betta Fish are known to be fussy eaters (and you thought us humans were bad!). So it is best to feed them on a variety of foods, such as:
- Brine shrimp - Daphnia - Frozen Bloodworms - Blackworms (Tubifex) worms - Combination Betta Pellets from Pet Shops - Powder Fish Food if feeding Fry - Vegetables (such as green beans, not a whole one but in tiny portions)
I tend to find a regular feeding pattern of 2-3 times a day works best for Betta. Try as well to make portions eaten in one sitting otherwise any leftover food could lead to additional bacteria in the tank potentially causing disease for your Betta Fish.
6. What are Betta Fish also Known as?
Not a lot of people know this but Betta Fish are also known as Siamese Fighting Fish. The name originates because of the males aggressiveness and their "Fight to the Death" attitude if two males are put in the same tank together.
Betta fish are often referred to as Betta Splendens but this is a type of breed of Betta, which leads us nicely onto the next question...
7. What are the Different Types of Betta Fish Available?
There are many types of Betta Fish available, the most popular types I've listed below:
- Betta Splendens (the most common type) - Betta Bellica - Betta Coccina - Betta Picta
Some of the most popular Tail Types of Betta are:
- Veil Tail (this generally the most common tail type that you find at the pet stores)
- Delta Fish (normally any fish under the 180 degree tail span is considered a Delta)
- Super Delta Fish (normally any Betta with a tail span of 120-180 degrees)
- Fan Tail (the Betta's tail displays a smoothly rounded edge)
- Half Moon (as it's name suggest it's tail is the shape of a half moon - a 180 degrees span, this is the fish most breeders strive to achieve and display a truly fabulous colour!)
- Pin (Spade) Tail (the Betta's tail is pointed at the end)
Depending on what you are looking for this should hopefully give you enough information to choose a Betta fish at the pet store! ;-)
8. Can I Put Bamboo in With My Betta Fish?
Bamboo or Lucky Bamboo as it is also known, the type that is sold from pet stores, can be put into your tank with your Betta Fish. The bamboo can make your tank look more attractive and appealing to your guests, which is always a bonus!
However, what I recommend is that the bamboo is washed thoroughly before entry into the tank to help ensure there are no chemicals on it that could hurt your Betta. Also, it is a good idea to check the bamboo regularly just to see if it is rotting because it could release bacteria into your tank's water that could potentially harm your Betta fish. Changing your tank's water often will reduce the threat of bacteria happening.
9. What Ammonia Level Should My Tank be at?
Ideally, you want an ammonia level between 0-0.5. By changing your water regularly (about 30-50% twice a week, if you have high ammonia) this will help reduce the ammonia in your tank.
It is a good idea to monitor ammonia levels on a regular basis, because a high level is not healthy for your Betta Fish.
10. Would a Father Betta Harm His Children?
Unfortunately, a male (Father) Betta would harm his children (Fry). Although, the Father is very protective of the Fry during the spawning process it is common for them to attack the Fry as they become bigger and able to look after themselves.
I recommend removing the Father from the tank once the Fry are able to swim freely, usually 7-10 days after birth because he can become very aggressive towards them and potentially cause them harm.
That's the answers to the 10 most asked questions I get on a regular basis. I hope you found this information useful and are able to put it to good effect.

Betta Fish Breeding at Home

Breeding fish can be somewhat difficult. Especially with Betta fish, as they tend to be aggressive towards other Betta fish. There are several steps you will need to follow in order to successfully breed your Betta fish.
You will need to make sure that your fish are at least 5 months old and fully acclimated to their tanks. You must set the male in one tank and the female in another close to each other so they can get used to one another before you bring them together to mate.
The Betta fish will begin to show signs when they are ready to mate; the male will make a bubble nest at the top of his tank where he will eventually place the eggs, and the female can develop colorful stripes.
Your breeding tank should be kept at 80-82 degrees for the baby fish to best survive. You can now place the female in with the male and he will hold her upside down so that she can release her eggs.
Betta fish can release hundreds of eggs, while some have been known to release close to a thousand. Her job done, the female will then hide and the male will take over the caring of the young.
It is best to take the mother out of the tank at this point, or the male may view her as a threat to the eggs and may get aggressive towards her.
Once the fish have hatched and are swimming freely, take the male out of the tank as well or he may begin to eat his young and your hard work will have been in vain.
Give the babies about two weeks before you change their water, and be careful that you don't overfeed them or the tank could become cloudy.
After a couple weeks, you can begin changing the water and separating the fish into other bowls. Now all you will need to do is decide if you want to sell them, or keep them for your family.

Breeding Betta Fish for Profit

Breeding Betta fish can be somewhat difficult if you have never done it before, or if you do not have a lot of patience. However, if you can get past the particular things that can make Betta fish a little more difficult to breed, then you should be able to turn a pretty good profit, and have fun along the way.
These include things such as keeping the water temperature a comfortable 80-82 degrees, and making sure you remove the female and male Bettas at the right times.
You will also be the proud caretaker of up to 1000 baby fish! Not all the fry will live, but there will most likely be several hundred and you will be able to sell them within a few weeks.
You will need to decide whether you are going to provide a nice habitat to go along with the fish, or if you are going to just have them in a glass or plastic fish cup until they get home with their new owners. You may be able to get a larger profit if you add a bowl and plant fixture; that has been popular in years past.
If you have the option for a plant/bowl aquarium, some people are willing to pay extra for those features. With several hundred fish out of each breeding, you should be able to turn out a fair profit from breeding your Betta fish. Just be sure to pay close attention to the adult fish through the process and you'll have fun too!

Betta Fish Breeding for Fun

Breeding Betta fish can be difficult. You can't just put the two fish together then expect them to mate and everything to be ok.
The male Siamese fighting fish are known to be aggressive and will fight other Bettas. It is best to keep the fish separated, but in tanks next to each other so they can see one another and get used to each other before you try to breed them.
There are several things that you need to make sure you are ready and set up before you can even begin the breeding process. These include things such as keeping the water temperature a comfortable 80 degrees, and making sure you remove the female and male Bettas at the right time.
You will also be the proud caretaker of up to 1000 baby fish! Not all of the fry live, but there will likely be several hundred and you will need to think about where to put them all.
These few things may make it slightly more difficult for the average person to breed Bettas at home for fun, they are very picky fish and will need close monitoring. But those who do breed these beautiful fish soon learn the extra efforts are worth it as breeding Betta fish can be a lot of fun, and even profitable too. So, just make sure you know what you are getting into before you decide to dive into breeding Betta fish.

The Joys of Beta Fish Breeding

There are educational values as well as many joys to be found when dealing with any type of animals. Betta fish are certainly no exception. You can breed Betta fish in your own home with your children, or in a classroom as a science project.
Either way, children will be able to learn a lot about the care and breeding of the fish throughout the process, and many of the lessons learned will stay with them and can be applied to their own lives in the future.
When beginning your project, make sure that you keep the male and female Betta fish in separate tanks, or if you only have a single tank be sure to place a clear separator between them in it, so that the male does not get too aggressive towards the female early on. Once the male and female Betta fish get used to each other you can put them together to begin the mating process in your breeding tank. The optimal breeding tank conditions are five inches of water depth, which should be kept at about 80 to 82 degrees.
After a short courtship process they will mate and once the eggs are safely in the male Betta's bubble nest, take the female out of the tank. The male will take care of the eggs until they hatch and at that point you will need to also remove the male so he does not eat the baby fish.
You should now have at least several hundred fish! You can begin moving them into separate tanks after about two weeks and if you choose to sell them, you can begin sending them to new homes as well! Make sure you watch the fish closely for aggressiveness until they've been separated, and enjoy your new Betta fish!

Betta Fish Friends

Betta fish can also be placed with other fish. This truth is often unnoticed due to the fighting nature of the Beta. It is suggested that the other fish be smaller in size then the beta fish.
The tank friends for the betta fish may include:
Platies - The southern platy fish is a type of freshwater fish. It grows to a maximum size of 6.0 cm (2.4 in). Sexual dimorphism is small, the male's caudal fin being more pointed. Wild varieties are dull in coloration, deficient of the typical dark lateral line common to many Xiphophorus species. Breeders have developed a large number of color varieties which are ordinary aquarium fish for hobbyists. Platys are trouble-free to maintain and compatible to a community aquarium. This fish is generally sold in pet shops
Swordtails - It is native to an area of North and Central America extending from Veracruz, Mexico, to northwestern Honduras. The male green swordtail grows to an average size of 14cm (5.5in) and the female to 16 cm (6.3 in). Sexual dimorphism is reasonable, with the female being larger than the male but missing the "sword". The wild variety is olive green in color, with a red or brown side stripe and speckles on the dorsal and, occasionally, caudal fins. Confined breeding has created many color varieties, including black, red, and numerous patterns thereof, for the aquarium hobby.
Cory Cats - Cory Cats are some of the most nonviolent and interesting scavengers for a freshwater aquarium, and will flourish in a wide variety of water conditions. These catfish are very active hunters who remain comparatively small. As a result of this, they are ideal for keeping the substrate uncontaminated in a smaller freshwater community aquarium. They have a preference to be in schools of 6 or more but many people place one or two Cory cats in their smaller tanks. Neon Tetras - The neon tetra is until now one of the most excellent community fish there is on the market. Placed in a school of 6 or more, these little guys are a tremendous scene swimming around the aquarium and chasing each other back and forth. Neons are very passive and quite small, so shouldn't be placed with very large fish which might find it a delicious meal. When placed with other fish, think about the violent behavior and size of possible tank-mates. Neons cannot be placed with killer type fish or anything that is large sufficiently to eat them, including the naive looking Angelfish.
Cardinal Tetras - The Cardinal Tetra is one of the most preferred fish to have in a tank, primarily for the reason of its splendid coloration. On the other hand, maintaining these little fish have the need of a definite knowledge that many possessors do not have. These fish are tremendously hard to breed in detention, almost all of the fish available in shops have been taken from the Amazon basin, and sadly thousands of them die every year in unsuitable tanks. It is rather ordinary, for example, to see a little kid walk into a shop with a few coins and buy one or two cardinals to add to his goldfish bowl.
White cloud mountain minnow - The White Cloud Mountain minnow is an extremely resilient species of freshwater fish often placed in aquaria. This species grows to an average size of 4 cm (roughly 1.5 in), and is silver-green in color with a vivid red caudal fin. A number of varieties are known, one with vivid light edges to the dorsal and anal fins and one with red edges to those fins. Also, there is a long-finned variety. Sexual dimorphism is small, the male usually possessing more radiant coloration and having a a little slimmer body.
Zebra Danios - Among the most resilient and lively of aquarium fish, the Zebra danio is easily known by its typical horizontal stripes. Their small size, no more than two and half inches, and passive temperament, make them compatible to a community aquarium. Albino, veil tailed, and long finned ranges are obtainable, as well as a well-liked leopard variety. All varieties flourish in schools.
Cherry Barbs - The Cherry Barb is a gorgeous, nonviolent fish. It makes a brilliant community fish and is best if placed in groups of 6 or more. The females are easy to differentiate, once they grew older. They are much lighter in color, generally just with some yellow and a light orange/black straight band. The female is also very plumper than the male. All in all, the cherry barb is an outstanding community fish and makes a beautiful addition to any tank.

Betta Fish Shows

Small wild Betta fish still swim in the rice paddy channels of Southeast Asia, protecting their bubble nests from all interlopers. Though lively, the Betta fish are far removed from their familial relatives, normally called Siamese fighting fish.
Wild Betta fishes will fight to protect their area but they are street fighters in comparison to the Sweet Pea Whitakers of the pet trade i.e. the familial Betta fishes. The wild Betta fishes are not so much colorful as the familial Betta fishes nor are their fins as long and as attractive as their familial counterparts. However the genes are certainly there. When a Betta fish - untamed or tame - meet another Betta fish, they both act in response impulsively. The color of their body becomes dark noticeably, as if flushed in irritation, and their straggling fins flash open and sit up, erect like a fan prepared to fight the summer heat.
For centuries in Asia the little fish were breed in internment only for their fierceness and combating aptitude. The fish were paired off by their possessor to fight, many a times to the death, to a large extent like a cock fight.
Now a days fighting is not authorized or excused by the International Betta Congress. As an alternative Betta fish breeders breed their fish to improve their beauty, taking benefit of the physical uniqueness of violent behavior.
Over the years the betta fish has been bred for more and more attractive color differences and longer more good-looking and striking flowing fins. Betta fishes are found in different colors like yellow, blue, green, red, black and turquoise. Many a times they also are bi-colored and they come with a pale sparkling look as if they had been covered with mother of pearl. At betta shows, there are 48 various color groups in which you can select anyone to fight.
Possessors take benefit of the fish's fighting nature to boast their colors and fins at their best for betta show adjudicators. The fish are publicized independently in small glass bowls and are disallowed to view the fish in neighboring bowls by pieces of card stock. When the adjudicators come around, the card stock is raised and the Bettas look each other from the glass. Their colors turn out to be vivacious and their fins get higher and spread like fighters cocking their fists. The fishes are judged by the adjudicators on clarity and limpidness of color, unusual and astonishing finnage, posture and deportment. Here deportment is not behavior. It's how nicely the fish swims and how attentive it is.
That's what a Betta show is all about - just raising those pieces of card stocks and the rest is done by the betta fishes.
Betta fishes generally costs more than $150. Even though Betta breeders would like to get back their operating cost, they know better than to think they will make a lot of money from their fish. The breeders mainly do it for the contentment of breeding the Betta fishes and not for earning more profit.
Bottled water doesn't provide the best possible environment for your Betta fish. Actually most of the bottled waters available in market don't have the essential minerals needed for the healthy environment of the fish. Also these bottled waters may contain some chemicals which could be injurious for the fish. Similarly, you should never make use of purified water or water that has been "distilled" by any procedure.
The real best water for your Betta fish is just simple tap water. You can also use spring water but you must remove the harmful chemicals present in it by following the procedure mentioned below:
1. Most of the time a very harmful chemical known as chloramines are present in water which may kill your Betta fish. To remove this harmful chemical from water you have to purchase AmQuel. AmQuel is very easily obtainable at pet stores. 2. You can also get a 'stress coat' from your nearby local pet shop. It is also one of the best products for your betta fish.
3. Now as you've treated the water as per the above directions, it requires to "age" which will permit all of the chemicals and gasses to disappear, and also for the pH in the water to standardize. To let the chemicals evaporate, just put the treated water in an open container for a week.

Breeding Betta fishes

Betta fishes are in reality very sociable fish as long as you don't place two males together. They can be very easily kept with most other fish, and what you truly have to watch out for is the fish that bothers bettas.
Betta fishes are slow moving fish with incredibly long fins, so they can't be placed with any fast moving fish that is being known for it's fin-nipping, like zebra danios. They get along in a very good manner with most breeds of tetras, and you can let your baby betta fish grow with baby neons.
When you place bettas in a community tank, the most significant thing to keep in mind is that they are fish that initially came from an area with slow moving water. So any kind of big filtration on the tank will shock a betta and make him conceal in a corner away from the current. You have to create a sense of balance in this case with the other fish in the tank that have need of the current and bubbles for the oxygen in the water for them to survive. Alternatively, once a betta fish gets accustomed to the current from a filter, you will every now and then see the betta playing in it for fun. Simply take care that there is an area with slow moving water or still water in the tank for the betta to move to when they are exhausted.
Normally you can't place a male and female betta fish in the same tank if * The two fish are not very babyish (more than a few months old generally won't work) * They are not prepared and ready to reproduce, * They have not grown up together from a very young age, and * You do not have sufficient hiding places for the female.
This is a sweeping statement - your mileage may differ on this one!
Generally, even for usual breeders, getting the silly small fish to breed can be either an effortless joy or a royal pain. They're not as good as the humans on blind dates. Many a times one couple will take to each other right away and you'll have eggs spread here and there in the tank, and sometimes they can swim around the tank for weeks and in no way look at each other. Or in certain cases one will be attracted but the other won't. So don't ever get depressed about not being able to breed the fish.
As a universal rule, for a female betta fish, give her sufficient time for her to recuperate and start looking prepared again; Sorry, that won't help out a lot, but every fish is unusual just keep an eye on your betta fish. If she had a despondent initially, it'll take her a while to recuperate. If the whole thing went well, she can be hot to trot again within a week.
Generally the second mating produce less number of eggs as compared to the first one, but it's never debilitated the female yet. If the female betta fish hasn't been fed, high-protein food regularly, then it takes normally a minimum time of 2-3 weeks after starting that food that she'll be prepared for breeding. After having been bred, if the female fish has been put on that same food again, usually within 2-3 weeks she'll be prepared again. However, it would better on your part to maintain a gap of one month in between.
Look carefully while placing the fish together. If the female is trying to attract the male aggressively and the bubblenest, and hanging her head down in the water, she's prepared. If all she does is swim away worriedly trying to run away, she's not.
Males also have to be conditioned as they use up a lot of exertion in tending the fry, but they're time and again more prepared than females. Though, keep an eye on the fish. From time to time the male is just so eager to be with a female that he's more involved in either fighting or showing off to truly doing anything about it. Or he's been around females so much that being lonely with one just isn't a delight anymore. Make use of your decision.
Normally after a fish is beaten up, it's fine to give them sufficient time to recuperate from whatever wounds they received, but torn fins aren't generally a trouble.

How to Choose a Betta Fish

Betta fish, also famous by the name of Siamese fighting fish are a great first pet for children's, in addition to people who don't have sufficient time or money for bigger pets. Bettas are reasonably priced, resilient, and easy to care for. Betta fish are a great substitute to goldfish as they require less space. They are contented in a fishbowl or aquarium and have the need of less maintenance as they produce a lesser amount of waste and don't infect the water as much. There are very few materials needed for acquiring a new betta fish: an aquarium or bowl, water conditioner, a net, and a few gravels. The fish will also be more contented with a small number of accessories, such as a plant and a place to hide.
Betta fish are a fun fresh pet as they come in a range of unusual colors and types. While selecting a betta fish, look for one that shows energy and has its fins unharmed. A healthy betta fish will show awareness during feeding times, and they should be fed on a habitual schedule so that they become used to expecting food. Betta fish can be fed on a mixture of foods, from dried arranged foods to frozen brine shrimp. Some betta fish have even got trained to rise out of their water during feeding times. They should only be given to eat once a day, and be alert not to overfeed. Fish will keep on acting hungry until they overeat, which can kill them, and extra food can also pollute the water.
Betta fish are disreputably resilient, and many have lived through ordeals that would kill most fish. This is not a justification to keep the fish in a tremendous environment, as they are displayed in most pet stores. Some of the containers sold specially for betta fishes are better than others. While it may be enjoyable to place two betta fish in a small container divided by a divider as the fish will regularly want to fight, the fish will in fact be happier in its own spacious container. With sufficient space, betta fish will swim around energetically, flaring their gills and showing off their fin display in order to be a focus for mates.
While betta fish are time and again placed in very small containers in a pet store, they will be happier with more room to roam. On the other hand, they might feel frightened by very large aquariums. Betta fish do not take pleasure in company and will not bear other fish trespassing within their territory. While most tropical fish can only have the need of a filter and heater, betta fish can get familiarized to incredibly small environments and do not require any more than a small bowl to live in.
The majority of the betta fish sold at a pet store are the more radiantly colored males. An unhealthy fish will not swim around a lot and will not show awareness in food. The state of its fins may also get worse. Do not purchase a fish that appears to be less healthy, even if all of the fish in the store that day appear lethargic and unwell. Consult a pet store expert if your fish starts showing these symptoms--many fish ailments can be easily cured. Symptoms of a healthy betta fish are the similar signals that a male will give off when he is prepared to mate. A healthy male will make bubble nests and move rocks to make certain that his territory is the ideal place to attract mates. After mating, the seemingly violent male will for a time quietly clean the eggs and place them in his bubble nest, while the female has no part in caring raising young. On the other hand, the young baby fishes must be removed soon after hatching before the male becomes territorial and tries to eat them.
Even though it is a betta's normal propensity to fight, they should never be put together for amusement, and two male betta fishes should never be permissible to live together in an aquarium. Unlike in the wild, there is no space for the losing fish to go and high, and so, generally putting two bettas in a tank will end result in the death of one or both fish. Even mating the fish is a very dangerous endeavor, and hobbyists watch their valued specimens very watchfully during the entire process. Betta fish are some of the most satisfying pets to maintain for very little work.

Symptoms of Betta Fish Diseases

When you have possession of a Betta fish, there is nothing worse than understanding that your little companion has contracted a Betta Fish disease. There are various unusual types of diseases a Betta Fish can get, and you are the only one that your Betta fish can depend on to help them get healthier when they are sick.
When you have a sick Betta fish, the basic thing you will have to recognize are the warning signs of the Betta fish disease. A few symptoms comprises of compressed fins, and a lack of desire for food. Clamped fins can be recognized by your ill Beta fish not flaring and holding his fins as close to his or her body as achievable. Clamped fins are mainly a technique by which Betta fish give you an idea that they are sad and ill.
If your ailing Betta fish is rubbing up against plants and other substances in the tank, it is somewhat possible that he or she has contracted a parasite. Parasites can be no matter which from Ich, or white spot ailment, to worms that hang off of your Betta fish's body. Parasites can be taken care of with medication such as Jungles Parasite Guard, Nox Ich, or Malachite Green. Be assured that you know accurately what parasite is disturbing your fish before you dose the tank with the chemicals.
One more symptom of Betta fish sickness is white or peculiar colored poop. This is the symptom of an internal bacteria or parasite. Regrettably, in most of the cases, if your fish has an inner trouble, it can be incurable. There are medications within definite kind of foods considered to battle these types of troubles, and if caught early sufficiently, it can be resolved.
A third symptom of disease is white, cotton like stuff budding on your ailing Betta fish. This symptom of Betta fish disease is for fungal contamination. Fungus, as well as fin rot, tends to be cured with the similar type of medications. Fin rot and mouth rot can be observed by black, red or white edges to the fins of your Betta fish, and a perceptible shrinking of fin size. Fin rot, if not cured, can turn into complex fin rot, and take the life of your Betta fish.
If you want Betta fish assistance, there are several special forums online that you can make use of. If you are having an urgent situation, though, it is best that you get in touch with your neighboring fish store, where they can assist you recognize and start treating your fish with the correct medicines.
It is to be expected that our betta fish will fall ill either due to water quality or handling. Proper awareness of the temperament of the warning signs and essential treatment process is significant if one were to get pleasure from this hobby. We can take dogs or cats to vets if our pets fall ill. For fish we simply have to be our personal vets ... I have never heard of Fish Vets, have you?
The best disease avoidance is a cautious preservation plan. Keep the water hygienic, supply sufficient and suitable diet. Routine inspection is the best preventative measure. Losses of color and or desire for food, sluggishness, tiredness, or unusual behavior are among the first symptoms. Additional signs comprises of swelling, fin rotting and fungus that are noticeable.
Fin rot is generally due to bad water condition resulting from gathering of uneaten foodstuff or other waste material. Aquarium salt will generally help out.
Swim bladder problem is very ordinary to betta fishes. This makes them having complexity rising to the surface for air. After a great effort to reach the top and air is breathed in, the fish falls back to the base, unable to sustain its optimism. Swim bladder can be due to too much feeding or wounds at some point in fights or shipping.
Betta fishes are extraordinarily prone to velvet. Warning signs comprises of tiny yellow specs covering the body, fins, or gills.

Treatment of Betta Fish Diseases

The main reason of the diseases of Betta fish is internal pressure. The pressure can be a result of several different things. The most widespread disease is infection.
Betta Fish Care and Treatment: "Maracyn 2" by Mardel is suggested. Maracyn-2 is a all-purpose antibiotic tablet which is utilized for popeye, fin and tail rot, gill ailment, dropsy, septicemia, secondary and inner infections. It is essential that the treatment be absorbed within the Betta fish to cure the infection. Regular water changes twice a week, in addition to higher temperatures may also aid the Betta fight off the infection himself.
Fungal infection Fungal infections generally happen because of bad water conditions. They become visible as white fluffy growths on the Betta fish's mouth, eyes, and fins and are highly infectious.
Betta Fish Care and Treatment: Increase the temperature of the Betta fish tank. Fungal infections are time and again an outcome of cooler water temperatures. Medicines including Malachite green or Methylene blue are also useful. Malachite green is a totally harmless and helpful cure in fresh and salt water on a wide variety of protozoan, crustacean, and other invertebrate parasites of fishes. Adding ordinary table salt (sodium chloride) to the water, one teaspoon per gallon can lend a hand in minimizing the healing time.
Ichthyophthirius multifilius (Ich) Ich is a protozoan parasite found on the majority of the freshwater fish. It emerges as small white dots or stains on the Betta fish's fins and body, which may seem to be like white grains of sugar. Eruptions mostly happen when the water temperature drops less than 80 degrees F.
Betta Fish Care and Treatment: Raise the water temperature to the mid to higher 80s degree F. Salt baths are very helpful against Ich. Adding common table salt (sodium chloride) to the water can lend a hand in reducing disease. Add one teaspoon per gallon as a pre-emptive measure. Medicines containing Malachite green or Methylene blue, continued at a time gap of 2 days are also helpful.
Velvet/Oodinium It is an algae parasite found on several freshwater fish. This ailment emerges as a yellow "velvety" covering on the Betta fish's body. It may also become visible as golden or rust colored. It is habitually found in fish which are anxious due to chilling, shipping, water changes or bad water quality. Symptoms comprises of fast breathing and lethargy.
Betta Fish Care and Treatment: Raised temperature and medicines like acriflavine, Methylene Blue or Jungle's "velvet guard" should help cure this parasite. Bowls or tanks should be drained and unsoiled. Dyes must not be used as they have mercury.
Fin Rot Fin Rot is a bacterial disease and often happens to weaker Betta fishes.
Betta Fish Care and Treatment: Application of antibiotics, anti-microbials, and measures containing these is the perfect cure of this disease. One such anthology is Mardel Maracyn 2. Maracyn-2 is an all-purpose antibiotic tablet used for popeye, fin and tail rot, gill ailment, dropsy, septicemia, secondary and inner infections. Changing the water, increasing the temperature and adding a small amount of salt will often attain excellent results.
Dropsy It is caused by an inner, bacterial contagion. It mostly shows itself as stuffed sides and overhanging scales on the Betta fish. Again, the most possible reason is bad water conditions.
Betta Fish Care and Treatment: The application of Mardel's Tetracycline is suggested. Tetracycline is an all purpose antibiotic for ailing fin and tail rot, popeye, gill ailment and dropsy. It is mainly useful against gram-negative pathogenic organisms.
Black Spot It demonstrates small, black scraps on the body of the Betta fish. It is time and again found in fish that are harassed due to shipping.
Betta Fish Care and Treatment: Adding common table salt (sodium chloride) to the water can lend a hand in minimizing the healing time. Adding one teaspoon per gallon is suggested.
Common Beta Fish Treatments
* Copper Sulfate is helpful as an antiseptic for equipment, tanks and bowls. * Formalin is helpful against Ich and parasites. * Malachite Green is generally used to cure protozoan infections.
Betta fish are flexible but do not bear thermal swings splendidly. Bettas are tropical fish and must be placed in tropical temperatures. Betta fish need habitual, twice-weekly water changes in gallon water containers, a combination of foods (not just dry pellets), and your communication to remain healthy.
Most of the ailments or illnesses with tropical freshwater fish can be credited to their surrounding atmosphere.
Nearly always a rapid water change, the adding up of a bit of salt (unionized sea salt is the most excellent, about a level teaspoon per five gallons equivalent) will resolve anything which is ailing them.

Water Chemistry of the Aquariums

Betta fish are a better bet as pets than goldfish. Most kids have this experience with goldfish after a few days: Moby is found floating at the top of the bowl, then gets a one-way tour of a toilet's plumbing system. This speedy demise occurs because goldfish don't like being kept in a bowl. However, betta fish, also called Siamese fighting fish, think bowls are great homes.
Water in bowls quickly turns foul and oxygen-deficient, and that's when goldfish begin to fail, Dave Taub explains. He owns Contemporary Aquarium Design in Coral Springs, Fla. But betta fish are different, says Taub, who has been breeding them for 14 years. They have a lung-like organ called a labyrinth that allows them to come to the surface and take a breath. (Taub has known betta fish to be kept in everything from pickle jars to candle holders.)
But betta fish aren't dubbed Siamese fighting fish for their ability to fight off polluted water - it's because they fight off each other. In the wild, they live in rice patties in the countries of the Far East, such as Vietnam, Thailand and Malaysia. They carve out small territories and defend them at all costs. You'll be an accessory to a fish murder if you add a betta fish to a bowl already containing one.
Betta fish are available at many pet stores for $3-$5. They're about the size of a typical goldfish, though their dainty fins make them appear larger. They come in a kaleidoscope of color combos, including shades of blues, greens and reds. Not great swimmers, they're content to gently fan the water with those graceful fins. Their diet includes a combination of at least two of the following: live or frozen bloodworms, frozen mosquito larvae, freeze-dried brine shrimp or commercial diet for betta fish. (These foods are available at many pet stores.)
Fancy aquariums may be a tank of dreams, but fuss-free bowl fish are the new trend. We're not talking goldfish, but rather betta fishes, otherwise known as Siamese fighting fish.
They come in deep jewel-tone colors, have showy exotic fins and breathe air off the top of the water, according to Garrett Young of Golden Leash & Fish in Arlington. Bettas, like goldfish, can exist in bowls or tanks without air pumps. With bettas, however, familiarity breeds contempt. "You can only have one betta per bowl," warned Kim Jetton of Fish & Pets in Arlington. "They will fight each other until one of them dies."
Serenely segregated bettas can live a very long time, some as long as six years. Most bettas are done in by their owners forgetting to add a chemical chlorine remover whenever the bowl water is changed.
Filter Media is the element employed in a filtration method to clean the water of an aquarium. Several types of filter media are accessible, and each is considered to aid a particular type of system. Following are some of the different types of filter media:
Synthetic Wool - A cotton-wool like floss positioned as the final layer in your filter arrangement to clean the water. Because of its excellent structure, it get choked up very quickly and so is impractical for utilization in a primary automatic filter or for organic colonization.
Sponge - These conventional foam pads are cheap and easy to sustain. They are obtainable in changeable grades to make possible automatic or organic filtration. Sponges are also regularly utilized in external filters to detach various filter media.
Carbon - This is an extremely permeable material. It is only effectual for a short time before have the need of replacement. Carbon should be utilized in particular circumstances such as the requirement to get rid of medication , a new aquarium set-up or water discoloration. It should be positioned as the last layer in your filter arrangement.
Ceramics Rings - Measuring just about half an inch long, ceramic rings mostly make available automatic filtration. They act efficiently as a filter to trap large-particles waste and should be utilized in the initial stage of filtration.
Sintered Glass - At the same time as common aquarium gravel can give successful mechanical and organic filtration, its application is limited for the reason of its comparatively low surface area in contrast to the volume it occupies. Sintered glass, a gravel-like substance, is a far more capable alternative as it has a huge surface area that permits massive bacteria colonies to develop. Sintered glass must be positioned after the crucial automatic filtration media.

Why Betta Fish Fight Each Other

Betta fish is also famous by the name of Siam Fighting Fish. Siam is the conventional name for Thailand. There are many variety of betta fish, the most widespread is Betta Splendens. Betta is local to Thailand and is found in several other parts of Asia as well, namely Vietnam, Cambodia and Malaysia.
Betta is a labyrinth for the reason that it breathes oxygen from the air. Bettas are found in slow moving waters in paddy fields or small rivers. It is violent and defensive by temperament.
In several regions of Asia many people still employ them to fight for bets and it is one of the much loved past time. Through discriminating breeding and genetics development, now days we are seeing more diversities in finnage and colors of bettas. Halfmoon and plakat betta fishes are progressively becoming more preferred aquarium fish pets.
Betta fish fights to look after their area, to make sure that they have sufficient food, and also for the reason that they want to be "king of the hill" when the time for reproducing comes for them. These are hereditary qualities, and you can't train your Betta fish to fight.
In case if you place two male Betta fishes together in the tank, they will flare up at each other - (this means they inflate, flaring out their fins and gill covers, to make themselves look superior and more intimidating.) Time and again one fish will make a clean breast defeat and swim away, leaving the other male winning.
When people started keeping and fighting Betta fish, violent behavior was bred into them, but over the last few years, this quality has started to be bred out of them.
For the majority of the time male Betta fishes will only bother other males. On the other hand it's not completely unheard of for a male Betta fish to bother a new female or one that he feels endangered by, so it's always an excellent idea to keep an eye on your Betta fish when you initially place another fish into the tank, or if you're placing your Betta in with other fish.
At times a more violent Betta fish will pinch or bite the other fish. Therefore if you see this incident, take away the violent one right away to keep away from injuries.
Actually there is only one way to prevent your betta fish from fighting- don't keep two male Betta fishes in the same tank. If you have just one tank and two male Betta fishes, you have two alternatives - one is to make use of a "fish condo" and the other one is to use a separator or single mesh divider.
Fish Condos: These are apparent plastic containers with air holes that allow the tank water flow all the way through them. Depending on the dimension of your tank, you can also fit in two, three or four space fish condos. Each Betta fish have possession of his own space, and you can put up visual blockades for example plants or java moss so that one betta fish can't see the other.
You can also place a single mesh divider in one part of your tank that will maintain your male Betta fish alienated from each other.
As per Mr. Walt Maurus in a book named "Bettas a Complete Introduction," this diversity of betta was developed by a prisoner of the Indiana State Prison named Orville Gulley. He was trying to create a black butterfly betta in his prison cell in peanut butter jars and he was selling his extra fishes to Walt. Marble Betta fishes appeared in the middle of these extras and have been kept going by various other breeders. There are marbled bettas of approximately every color mixture possible now.
It seems that Dr. Pronger uncovered some fertilized betta eggs to x-ray radiation and as a result a number of them fry turned black in color. And the baby fishes produced from these eggs are known as melano betta fish. These melano bettas are excellent looking fish, but the female melanos don't produce sufficient eggs. It appears that the metamorphosis that produced the black pigment also changed the temperament of the egg membranes so that they are no longer water proof and no one of them ever hatch. That's the problem with rays...you can't just focus it on one genetic material.