Breeding Betta Fish - An Essential Guide

When you decide to breed your Betta Fish, the first step is to make sure you are ready. It will take time, money, space for around fifty jars to separate males, a secure pond with no other fish and a good level of experience caring for Bettas already.
Presuming the answer is yes; the next step is to obtain a female. This can be difficult, as few stores sell them. Once you have both, don't leave them in the same tank. Start with cheap Bettas, to avoid wasting lots of money. Later on, after you become an expert, you can try to breed your own masterpieces. Look for fish with some energy to increase the chances of spawning. The chosen fish should be between seven and eighteen months old, and a spare pair just in case is also a wise precaution.
Prepare the mating tank, ten gallons is about right. Don't add much decorations or gravel, but some large leafed plants will help the female hide from the male. The temperature should be around eighty degrees and the depth about six inches until the fry, or baby fish, begin swimming. Normally, you wouldn't worry about air filtration with Bettas, but the fry will require it. However, they cannot handle a powerful filter. The old-fashioned box type, powered by an air pump is best, and the carbon filter that came with the pump is not acceptable. Instead, use floss or sponges. This is to avoid bad reactions between the carbon and an anti-fungal treatment. It is wise to let the pump operate through a complete cycle before fish are exposed to it to allow bacteria to grow.
Begin feeding the fish high quality food. One breeder recommends the following sequence: BettaMin, Freeze Dried Blood Worms, some live or frozen brine shrimp, then a few live Black Worms. Others swear by tubifex worms and other combinations. Do not overfeed, as this will still force you to clean the tank and replace the water more often. Change twenty percent of the water in each tank each day to help prevent this and encourage the fish to get ready to breed. The male should be in the breeding tank, and should be able to see the female in her tank. He should begin to build a bubble nest.
With the high quality food, the female should begin to plump up as eggs are produced. With lighter colored breeds you can sometimes see the eggs, and the fish should produce horizontal stripes when ready. If that isn't showing, look near the anal fin for a white gravid tube. If this is showing, she is ready.
Now comes the key moment. Plan for at least an hour when you can be present to supervise. Put the female in the water with the male. There can be some rough treatment, including some mutual fin nipping or even worse behavior. If it gets too rough, remove the female and plan to wait a few days to let her recover, but if you don't give them a chance, there won't ever be any fry. If all goes well, they will conduct what is called an embrace, and she will produce eggs under the bubble nest. He will fertilize them and begin to care for the eggs. The female should be removed now, lest she become fish food.
For the next two days, the male will keep the eggs cleaned and in the bubble nest, recovering any that fall. Then come the fry. For about thirty-six hours, they'll be unable to move out of the tank. Around two days after hatching, the first fry will begin to swim without help. At this point, remove the male fish lest the fry become fish food. A day after the fry hatch, they need their first feeding, and baby brine shrimp, daphnia, microworms, or liquid fry food for egg layers are good choices. They'll need feeding up to five times a day.
Now comes the hard part. Many experienced breeders say this can only be done in a suitable pond. The temperature must be above at least 68 and preferably 70 degrees. There must be no fish to eat the fry, and a variety of tiny aquatic creatures to eat.
After about ten days, they can take a little powdered food. This is a small amount of very finely crushed flake food. They should be about a quarter of an inch long. At about four weeks, they should be around a half inch long, and should begin to show sexual dimorphism, so you can tell the males from the females. Separate the males from each other before fighting begins.

Breeding Betta Fish Made Easy In 5 Steps

I got my first betta fish as a teenager and enjoyed that first betta for several years.
The Siamese Fighting Fish, commonly called betta, is one of the most popular freshwater aquarium fish. Bettas earn the nickname "jewel of the orient" because of their range of brilliant colors. The males particularly sport long flowing beautiful fins. Their beauty causes many to enjoy the hobby of breeding betta fish.
The temperament of the fish is very aggressive. Males especially will readily fight other males. Females may also be prone to fight.
1. Care of males and females.
It is essential to distinguish between males and females, but it isn't always easy to do. Males do tend to have larger and fuller fins. Studying pictures of the differences will help. Each male should be kept in his own bowl or tank. Two males in the same tank will usually fight until one is dead. Even a male and female should be together only briefly for spawning. Otherwise the male will often treat the female roughly and do permanent damage.
Several females can usually be kept in the same tank provided there is sufficient room. There should be more than two females, otherwise one will dominate and continually chase the other female.
2. Water conditions are important for breeding betta fish.
The betta's native habitat is vast, shallow freshwater paddies of Southeast Asia. The fish must have access to the surface of the water, since it takes oxygen directly from the atmosphere as well as through their gills. Since they can get oxygen from the surface, they can survive in smaller spaces and poorer condition than other aquarium fish. Though they do best in clean, filtered water. They can be kept in bowls under the right conditions, but a portion of the water should be changed very frequently. It's best to allow about three gallons per fish. And it's recommended to have a minimum tank size of six gallons so a heater can be used. The right water temperature is 75 - 84 degrees F. At those temperatures the fish will be quite active.
3. Choose the right food.
Bettas are carnivorous but they can do well on food labelled for betta fish. The addition of live or frozen blood worms (mosquito larvae) and live or frozen shrimp brine is recommended. Most aquarium bred fish will also accept dried flaked aquarium tropical fish food.
4. Mating.
Males build a nest of air bubbles for the baby fish or fry. And the males care for the young.
For spawning, a female is introduced into the male tank. If conditions are right for mating, the male fish will squeeze the female. Eggs will be expelled, then fertilized by the male. The female should then be removed to her tank to prevent her injury by the male fish. Even if spawning does not take place, the female should be removed.
The male fish will care for the eggs until the fry emerge in a few days.
5. Providing for the young.
The released little fish or fry are very tiny and vulnerable. Most often they are raised in special ponds where they feed on tiny microscopic living creatures. Some have success raising the fry in bowls or aquariums. But the conditions must be right, similar to the usual pond environment.
For much more information on breeding bettas and successfully raising

Betta Breeding in Easy Steps

The Siamese Fighting Fish, commonly called betta, is one of the most popular freshwater aquarium fish. Bettas earn the nickname "jewel of the orient" because of their brilliant colors. The males particularly sport long, flowing, beautiful fins. If you see bettas in a pet store what you usually see are the males. People like the beautiful colors and usually purchase one at a time as "pets".
The temperament of the fish is very aggressive. Males especially will readily fight other males. Females may also be prone to fight.
Separate care of males and females.
It is essential to distinguish between adult males and females, but it isn't always easy to do. It's important though, since two males in close quarters will engage in fish-to-fish combat to the death. They don't get along very well with most other fish either! Very foul in disposition, aren't they!
Males tend to have larger, more colorful and fuller fins. Studying pictures of the differences will help you learn to tell them apart. Each male should be kept in his own bowl or tank. Two males in the same tank will usually fight until one is dead. Even a male and female should be together only briefly for spawning. Otherwise the male will often treat the female roughly and do permanent damage, at least to the ripping of fins.
Several females can usually be kept in the same tank provided there is sufficient room. However, there should be more than two females, otherwise one will dominate and continually chase the other female. Some aquatic plants in the tank make it easier for the fish to maintain some separation.
Water conditions.
The betta's native habitat is the vast, shallow freshwater paddies of Southeast Asia. The fish must have access to the surface of the water, since it takes oxygen directly from the atmosphere as well as through their gills. Since they can get oxygen from the surface, they can survive in smaller spaces and poorer condition than other aquarium fish. The little cups that the fish are purchased in at a pet store certainly aren't adequate. They actually do best in clean, filtered water.
Male fish are often kept in bowls of about one and one-half gallons without supplemental heat or oxygen. If kept like this, the water should be changed when it becomes cloudy, every one to two weeks. Or you can change about 20 percent of the water every day or two. Then every few weeks you can completely clean the tank including all the gravel.
The general recommendation is to allow about three gallons per fish. So with a ten gallon tank three or four females would have plenty of room. And it's recommended to have a minimum tank size of six gallons so a heater can be used. With smaller tanks a heater can cause more temperature variation than the fish can tolerate. The right water temperature is 75 - 84 degrees F. At those temperatures the fish will be quite active.
The fish can also do well at 65 - 75 degrees F, though they will not be as active at the lower temperature. Since they aren't as active at the cooler temperature, the bowls will stay cleaner.
Feeding your breeding bettas.
Bettas are carnivorous, but can usually do well on food labelled for betta fish. The addition of live or frozen blood worms (mosquito larvae) and live or frozen shrimp brine is recommended. Most aquarium bred fish will also accept dried flaked aquarium tropical fish food.
Some breeders recommend black worms as supplemental feed especially for spawning females. Black worms are Lumbriculus variegatus. The worms can be kept in cool, clean, unchlorinated water. Some breeds of fish do not like these worms, but bettas prefer them.
Mating.
Males build a nest of air bubbles for the baby fish or fry.
For spawning, a female is introduced into the male tank. If conditions are right for mating, the male fish will squeeze the female. Eggs will be expelled, then fertilized by the male. The eggs will float into the bubble nest. The female should then be removed to her tank to prevent her injury by the male fish. Even if spawning does not take place, the female should be removed.
The male fish will care for the eggs until the young emerge in a few days.
The fry.
The released little fish or fry are very tiny and vulnerable. Most often they are raised in special ponds where they feed on tiny microscopic living creatures. Some have success raising the fry in bowls or acquariums. But the conditions must be right, similar to the usual pond environment.
For much more information on breeding bettas and successfully raising

10 Essential Betta Tank Setup Tips

Just like any other pet, you are going to have to do a bit of work to make sure that your new betta will live in comfort. If you are bringing home a new betta fish there are a variety of setup tasks that you will need to do to make sure that your betta will have a healthy tank to call home. The following are some essential tips for setting up the tank for your new betta fish.
Tip #1 - Tanks Size - It is important that you have a tank or bowl that will be large enough for your new betta fish. You want to be sure that when your betta swims around he will not constantly be bumping into the sides and hurting his fins. Make sure that the tank gives enough swimming space and that it has a large enough surface so enough oxygen will be available for your fish.
Tip #2 - Have a Cover for the Tank - Another important setup tip for your tank is that you have a cover for your tank as well. If you do not have a cover, or you fail to put the cover on, your fish may jump out of the tank and either hurt himself or die.
Tip #3 - Treat the Water - It can actually be dangerous to use water straight from the tap for your betta fish; however, using bottled or purified water is not the answer either. The best thing to do is to treat the water from your tap with a product like Amquel or Stress Coat to help get rid of the chlorine in the water. After treating the water it probably should set for almost a week to make sure that all the chemicals have evaporated from the water. Chlorine can actually kill your betta, so be sure that you treat the water first.
Tip #4 - Choose the Right Substrate - It is important that you choose the right substrate for in your tank as well. More than likely you will want some plants in your tank so you want a substrate that is great for both the plants and your fish. While the colored substrate may look great, it is probably a bad idea since the paint can flake off causing problems. Choose a natural color of substrate, and one that will be conducive to both plants and your betta fish. Many times sand is actually a very cheap and excellent choice.
Tip #5 - Choose Appropriate Plants - Plants are a great idea for your fish tank since they can help keep the water cleaner and also provide the tank with more oxygen, but it is important that you choose the right plants for your betta. One of the best plants to use in a betta tank is the Amazon Sword plant; however, you may need to keep this plant trimmed if it starts to take over the tank.
Tip #6 - Tank Temperature - Having your tank at the right temperature is very important for your betta fish as well. Usually the best temperature for your betta fish tank is about 80 F. Any colder than this can be hard on your fish, and too warm can be a problem as well.
Tip #7 - Food for Your Betta - It is important that you also have the right food available for your betta as well. Now it is possible to get betta fish food tablets to feed your fish, but you may want to have some live food to give them as well. It is very important that you do not overfeed your betta fish or it can cause problems in the water or result in your betta overeating, which is not healthy. Try to make sure that your betta gets a well rounded diet to keep him healthy.
Tip #8 - Provide Light - It is also important that you can provide your betta fish with enough light. Both your betta fish and the healthy bacteria will need plenty of light, so you may want to install a light in the tank if you feel they may need more light. Make sure that they get at least eight hours of good light each day. It is also important that you turn out the light at night so your fish can get some sleep as well.
Tip #9 - Tank Placement - If you do not have a light for your aquarium, make sure you place the tank where it will get plenty of light. You also need to make sure that you have an aquarium stand that will take the weight of a full tank as well.
Tip #10 - Avoid Metal Decorations - One important thing to remember when you are setting up a tank for your fish is to avoid metal decorations. Metal can cause serious problems for your betta, so you need to avoid it in your tank. Those metal tank decorations may look great, but they can actually kill your betta, so forget about using them in your tank.

Guide to Betta Fish Food

Bettas are carnivorous. In the wild, they live off of insects and their larvae. Their mouth is designed to snatch prey on the surface of the water, and their digestive tract is too short to metabolize most plants. This means they are best suited for live food, but they can adapt to flakes and frozen or freeze dried foods.
If flake food is used, it should be supplemented by frozen, freeze dried or live food.
Brine shrimp, Daphnia, plankton, tubifex, glassworms, and beef heart are all good choices to feed Bettas, and are commonly available frozen or freeze dried. Note that Bettas can take up to a week to recognize a new food type, so you should keep the staple food constant and supplement with treats and other types of food occasionally. Most appear to prefer a mix of brine shrimp and bloodworms for their Bettas.
There are dedicated Betta foods on the market. These are usually pellets and should float on the surface for easy consumption. Hikari Betta Bio-Gold is well regarded, as are HBH Betta Bites and San Francisco Bay Brand Betta Food, which is essentially freeze dried bloodworms. Other brands have complaints about Bettas refusing to eat, inadequate nutrition and sinking pellets that Bettas can't consume fast enough.
With the Hikari Betta Bio-Gold, there are complaints about the packaging, but the larger sizes are easier to use. Remember that each Betta only needs about three pellets, and overfeeding will result in contamination of the tank. This is both because of food that rots and excess defecation from the overfed fish.
Some Bettas won't eat bloodworms, while others adore them. However, bloodworms are not a complete diet, and should be used as a treat or supplement for those fish that appreciate them. Most say their Bettas prefer live food, but some believe that too much live food can be bad for a Betta.
Let the Betta see the food coming. Drop the food right in front of the fish, so he doesn't have to hunt for it. If the food isn't eaten immediately, you should wait for the fish, but if it isn't consumed in 15 minutes, remove it and try again later. Start small, perhaps 6 brine shrimp, and if the Betta eats them all and there is no sign of belly distention, and the fish still acts hungry, you may feed it a little more, but the second feeding should be smaller.
There are products marketed at Betta vacation foods, but results are mixed. Some appear to swear by them, while others complain of the overfeeding issues listed above.
Additionally, many fish foods claim to be color enhancers. It appears the actual importance is proper nutrition and good conditions, so any good source of nutrients would be about as effective in color enhancement as any other.
Adult Bettas can be happy with feedings once or twice a day, provided care is taken to present a balanced diet and the correct amount of food is provided.

Sick Betta Fish - Betta Fish Constipation

Constipation
These notes are for educational purposes only. Attempts have been made to verify the accuracy of this document, but you should consult your normal qualified expert such as a Vet. If you decide to act on this information without consulting such an expert, you do so at your own volition as I cannot be held responsible for action you take. This said I have made it my business to check and re-check everything that has been inserted here.
Constipation is not what is commonly known as a disease, but it is pointed out here as betta fish commonly suffer from it. The symptoms to look out for are:
Lethargy/sluggishness
Swollen stomach
Lousy appetite
Over-feeding with foods such as flake foods, freeze dried bloodworms or brine shrimp can be the cause of your betta fish having constipation. While this food is okay, you should feed your bettas live food now and again, giving them a variety in the diet. In the wild the bettas eat insects and such, they wait until they see a hapless insect drop onto the surface of the shallow water they live in and quickly come to the surface to catch them. Therefore in order to maintain a healthy betta fish, you should not only feed them with the frozen or dried foods.
To remedy the constipation, instead of their normal food, for 24 - 48 hours feed them with small pieces of cooked skinless pea (get it from the pet store). Sometimes the betta will refuse to eat the pea, if that happens you will have to starve him for the allotted time as the fish needs to have his system cleaned out. If the pea feeding is successful you will plainly see the deposits on the floor of the aquarium and the swelling in your bettas' stomach will be reduced.
The pea acts as roughage and slowly does its job of cleaning out the bettas' system. Failing this treatment, all you will be able to do is wait and let nature take over.

Top 10 Frequently Asked Questions on Betta Fish Explained!

Betta Fish, arguably the most popular type of fish found in the home today across all the world. This astonishing fish displays a vibrant personality whilst posing the most magnificent colour and fin structure helping to create a truly jaw dropping aquarium that you can show off to your guests!
Originating from the paddy fields of Vietnam, Betta are an astounding fish and I will be answering in this article the 10 most popular questions I get asked on a regular basis about Betta Fish. So lets get started...
1. How do you stop Betta Fish from Fighting?
This is probably one of the most popular questions I get asked!
In my experience I've found a few ways that work...
One way is simply to get a bigger tank. With the bigger tank you can include a couple of new plants, bear in mind you don't want to over do it with the plants otherwise you will ruin your fish display (not very appealing to your guests!). By making the tank bigger and introducing a few more plants it creates extra hiding places for your Betta when the aggressive one is on the war path!
A second way is to simply separate the aggressive fish from the rest. This can be done by putting a divider into your tank, or by taking the aggressive fish out and putting it into a new tank. I would personally recommend putting a divider into your tank, size permitting of course, as your Betta will know the other Betta Fish are there. It also helps when it comes to the breeding process because introductions would have already been made.
Thirdly, you must NEVER, I repeat NEVER put a male Betta in with another male Betta Fish, period! Otherwise, they will fight to the death (this is why they are also known as Siamese Fighting Fish!). So by not keeping males together this will reduce fighting astronomically.
Female Betta's have been known to be aggressive and fight between each other, particularly if you have 2 together. However, this is just an "I'm the leader" thing going on between them and usually wears off , but a technique I've used and seen have great success to stop this happening is to add a 3rd female into the tank. By doing this any tension between the previous two is removed - try it, you'll be surprised how effective it is!
2. Can You Keep Male and Female Betta Fish Together?
Yes you can. However, I would recommend keeping a close eye on the male Betta just in case he becomes too aggressive and the female needs to be removed. As I mentioned above having plants in the tank can help the female hide if the male becomes aggressive.
3. How Do You Tell the Difference Between a Male and Female Betta Fish?
I always remember the saying "It's easy when you know how..." when I get asked this question because when I first started breeding Betta Fish it took me ages to recognise the difference between a male and a female...
You will tend to find that female Betta's have fat bellies where as males tend to have a more streamlined structure. Also, you will find that males have a longer body and fins whereas the females are shorter in body size and fin length.
Also, male Betta Fish tend to have more colour and longer pointed anal fins compared to their female counterparts (sorry ladies!). You will also find female anal fins are more level to their body. The anal fin is the rigid looking fin coming from the bottom of the Betta Fish.
However, one giveaway of a female is her white spot on the underside of her belly. This white spot is called the ovipositor and is used during the breeding process.
4. What are the Best Caring Tips for Betta Fish?
Lots of people have written books on the subject of caring for Betta Fish but I'm going to give you my best tips that I've picked up along the way...
- Test your water's acidity level regularly. A PH level of 7 works best in my experience.
- Always try and keep the water temperature at around 75-80 Fahrenheit. I would recommend testing this regularly using a floating thermometer because big drops in water temperature can cause stress on your fish. Floating thermometers in my experience give the best accuracy reading because they are kept in the tank water.
- Always keep a lid/cover over the top of your tank with air holes in it because Betta Fish can jump and you might not be there to catch them!
- Any filtration system should be kept at a low level and you must take care not to put the air intake in such a position that it could cause your Betta to get hurt. Having your filter system at a high setting has been known to cause stress to your Betta.
- Try and clean your tank regularly, ideally twice a week. Remove bits of food caught under the stones, castles or leaves of your tank.
- As a rule of thumb I recommend 3 quarters of a gallon per Betta fish in your tank. Also, try and get a spacious tank to allow your Betta plenty of room to show off their personality, you'll be surprised some are very exciting to watch!
I've always found if you love your Betta like you love your own then you won't go far wrong, and with implementing the above you will be well on your way to having truly astonishing Betta Fish.
5. What should I feed my Betta Fish?
Surprisingly, Betta Fish are known to be fussy eaters (and you thought us humans were bad!). So it is best to feed them on a variety of foods, such as:
- Brine shrimp - Daphnia - Frozen Bloodworms - Blackworms (Tubifex) worms - Combination Betta Pellets from Pet Shops - Powder Fish Food if feeding Fry - Vegetables (such as green beans, not a whole one but in tiny portions)
I tend to find a regular feeding pattern of 2-3 times a day works best for Betta. Try as well to make portions eaten in one sitting otherwise any leftover food could lead to additional bacteria in the tank potentially causing disease for your Betta Fish.
6. What are Betta Fish also Known as?
Not a lot of people know this but Betta Fish are also known as Siamese Fighting Fish. The name originates because of the males aggressiveness and their "Fight to the Death" attitude if two males are put in the same tank together.
Betta fish are often referred to as Betta Splendens but this is a type of breed of Betta, which leads us nicely onto the next question...
7. What are the Different Types of Betta Fish Available?
There are many types of Betta Fish available, the most popular types I've listed below:
- Betta Splendens (the most common type) - Betta Bellica - Betta Coccina - Betta Picta
Some of the most popular Tail Types of Betta are:
- Veil Tail (this generally the most common tail type that you find at the pet stores)
- Delta Fish (normally any fish under the 180 degree tail span is considered a Delta)
- Super Delta Fish (normally any Betta with a tail span of 120-180 degrees)
- Fan Tail (the Betta's tail displays a smoothly rounded edge)
- Half Moon (as it's name suggest it's tail is the shape of a half moon - a 180 degrees span, this is the fish most breeders strive to achieve and display a truly fabulous colour!)
- Pin (Spade) Tail (the Betta's tail is pointed at the end)
Depending on what you are looking for this should hopefully give you enough information to choose a Betta fish at the pet store! ;-)
8. Can I Put Bamboo in With My Betta Fish?
Bamboo or Lucky Bamboo as it is also known, the type that is sold from pet stores, can be put into your tank with your Betta Fish. The bamboo can make your tank look more attractive and appealing to your guests, which is always a bonus!
However, what I recommend is that the bamboo is washed thoroughly before entry into the tank to help ensure there are no chemicals on it that could hurt your Betta. Also, it is a good idea to check the bamboo regularly just to see if it is rotting because it could release bacteria into your tank's water that could potentially harm your Betta fish. Changing your tank's water often will reduce the threat of bacteria happening.
9. What Ammonia Level Should My Tank be at?
Ideally, you want an ammonia level between 0-0.5. By changing your water regularly (about 30-50% twice a week, if you have high ammonia) this will help reduce the ammonia in your tank.
It is a good idea to monitor ammonia levels on a regular basis, because a high level is not healthy for your Betta Fish.
10. Would a Father Betta Harm His Children?
Unfortunately, a male (Father) Betta would harm his children (Fry). Although, the Father is very protective of the Fry during the spawning process it is common for them to attack the Fry as they become bigger and able to look after themselves.
I recommend removing the Father from the tank once the Fry are able to swim freely, usually 7-10 days after birth because he can become very aggressive towards them and potentially cause them harm.
That's the answers to the 10 most asked questions I get on a regular basis. I hope you found this information useful and are able to put it to good effect.

Breeding Betta Fish for Profit

Breeding Betta fish can be somewhat difficult if you have never done it before, or if you do not have a lot of patience. However, if you can get past the particular things that can make Betta fish a little more difficult to breed, then you should be able to turn a pretty good profit, and have fun along the way.
These include things such as keeping the water temperature a comfortable 80-82 degrees, and making sure you remove the female and male Bettas at the right times.
You will also be the proud caretaker of up to 1000 baby fish! Not all the fry will live, but there will most likely be several hundred and you will be able to sell them within a few weeks.
You will need to decide whether you are going to provide a nice habitat to go along with the fish, or if you are going to just have them in a glass or plastic fish cup until they get home with their new owners. You may be able to get a larger profit if you add a bowl and plant fixture; that has been popular in years past.
If you have the option for a plant/bowl aquarium, some people are willing to pay extra for those features. With several hundred fish out of each breeding, you should be able to turn out a fair profit from breeding your Betta fish. Just be sure to pay close attention to the adult fish through the process and you'll have fun too!

Setting Up a Tropical Fish Aquarium

tropical fish aquarium is a fabulous furnishing for your home due to the tropical fishes attractive and colorful appearance. Tropical fish are beautiful pets that do not require nearly as much attention to care for as dogs and cats do.
There are a few things that you need to consider when you set up a tropical fish aquarium.
1. What fish variety or species you will keep in your tank. You can not, for instance, keep more than one Betta fish in a tank, because the two of them will fight each other. Instead you should opt for variety. This will also make your aquarium a work of art with all the flashing colors of the tropical fish residents, providing of course that you make sure that your fish are all compatible with each other.
2. When you have decided what fish to have, you can choose your aquarium. The size of your aquarium that you need should be based on the number of fish that you want to live in it, and the size of each fish species that you have chosen. If you are unsure, you local pet store should be able to advise you. Of course, you will also need to ensure that you have sufficient space in your home to comfortably accommodate your new aquarium!
3. You will also need some equipment for your aquarium: Filter, Heater, Lighting, Hood, Algae Magnet, CO2 Diffusers, Plants, Gravel, Gravel Vacuum, Nets and Fish Food
This might seem like rather a lot of equipment that you need to purchase. However, do remember that once you have bought them, you will not have to buy the equipment again for years, apart from the food of course.

Breeding Betta fishes

Betta fishes are in reality very sociable fish as long as you don't place two males together. They can be very easily kept with most other fish, and what you truly have to watch out for is the fish that bothers bettas.
Betta fishes are slow moving fish with incredibly long fins, so they can't be placed with any fast moving fish that is being known for it's fin-nipping, like zebra danios. They get along in a very good manner with most breeds of tetras, and you can let your baby betta fish grow with baby neons.
When you place bettas in a community tank, the most significant thing to keep in mind is that they are fish that initially came from an area with slow moving water. So any kind of big filtration on the tank will shock a betta and make him conceal in a corner away from the current. You have to create a sense of balance in this case with the other fish in the tank that have need of the current and bubbles for the oxygen in the water for them to survive. Alternatively, once a betta fish gets accustomed to the current from a filter, you will every now and then see the betta playing in it for fun. Simply take care that there is an area with slow moving water or still water in the tank for the betta to move to when they are exhausted.
Normally you can't place a male and female betta fish in the same tank if * The two fish are not very babyish (more than a few months old generally won't work) * They are not prepared and ready to reproduce, * They have not grown up together from a very young age, and * You do not have sufficient hiding places for the female.
This is a sweeping statement - your mileage may differ on this one!
Generally, even for usual breeders, getting the silly small fish to breed can be either an effortless joy or a royal pain. They're not as good as the humans on blind dates. Many a times one couple will take to each other right away and you'll have eggs spread here and there in the tank, and sometimes they can swim around the tank for weeks and in no way look at each other. Or in certain cases one will be attracted but the other won't. So don't ever get depressed about not being able to breed the fish.
As a universal rule, for a female betta fish, give her sufficient time for her to recuperate and start looking prepared again; Sorry, that won't help out a lot, but every fish is unusual just keep an eye on your betta fish. If she had a despondent initially, it'll take her a while to recuperate. If the whole thing went well, she can be hot to trot again within a week.
Generally the second mating produce less number of eggs as compared to the first one, but it's never debilitated the female yet. If the female betta fish hasn't been fed, high-protein food regularly, then it takes normally a minimum time of 2-3 weeks after starting that food that she'll be prepared for breeding. After having been bred, if the female fish has been put on that same food again, usually within 2-3 weeks she'll be prepared again. However, it would better on your part to maintain a gap of one month in between.
Look carefully while placing the fish together. If the female is trying to attract the male aggressively and the bubblenest, and hanging her head down in the water, she's prepared. If all she does is swim away worriedly trying to run away, she's not.
Males also have to be conditioned as they use up a lot of exertion in tending the fry, but they're time and again more prepared than females. Though, keep an eye on the fish. From time to time the male is just so eager to be with a female that he's more involved in either fighting or showing off to truly doing anything about it. Or he's been around females so much that being lonely with one just isn't a delight anymore. Make use of your decision.
Normally after a fish is beaten up, it's fine to give them sufficient time to recuperate from whatever wounds they received, but torn fins aren't generally a trouble.

Treatment of Betta Fish Diseases

The main reason of the diseases of Betta fish is internal pressure. The pressure can be a result of several different things. The most widespread disease is infection.
Betta Fish Care and Treatment: "Maracyn 2" by Mardel is suggested. Maracyn-2 is a all-purpose antibiotic tablet which is utilized for popeye, fin and tail rot, gill ailment, dropsy, septicemia, secondary and inner infections. It is essential that the treatment be absorbed within the Betta fish to cure the infection. Regular water changes twice a week, in addition to higher temperatures may also aid the Betta fight off the infection himself.
Fungal infection Fungal infections generally happen because of bad water conditions. They become visible as white fluffy growths on the Betta fish's mouth, eyes, and fins and are highly infectious.
Betta Fish Care and Treatment: Increase the temperature of the Betta fish tank. Fungal infections are time and again an outcome of cooler water temperatures. Medicines including Malachite green or Methylene blue are also useful. Malachite green is a totally harmless and helpful cure in fresh and salt water on a wide variety of protozoan, crustacean, and other invertebrate parasites of fishes. Adding ordinary table salt (sodium chloride) to the water, one teaspoon per gallon can lend a hand in minimizing the healing time.
Ichthyophthirius multifilius (Ich) Ich is a protozoan parasite found on the majority of the freshwater fish. It emerges as small white dots or stains on the Betta fish's fins and body, which may seem to be like white grains of sugar. Eruptions mostly happen when the water temperature drops less than 80 degrees F.
Betta Fish Care and Treatment: Raise the water temperature to the mid to higher 80s degree F. Salt baths are very helpful against Ich. Adding common table salt (sodium chloride) to the water can lend a hand in reducing disease. Add one teaspoon per gallon as a pre-emptive measure. Medicines containing Malachite green or Methylene blue, continued at a time gap of 2 days are also helpful.
Velvet/Oodinium It is an algae parasite found on several freshwater fish. This ailment emerges as a yellow "velvety" covering on the Betta fish's body. It may also become visible as golden or rust colored. It is habitually found in fish which are anxious due to chilling, shipping, water changes or bad water quality. Symptoms comprises of fast breathing and lethargy.
Betta Fish Care and Treatment: Raised temperature and medicines like acriflavine, Methylene Blue or Jungle's "velvet guard" should help cure this parasite. Bowls or tanks should be drained and unsoiled. Dyes must not be used as they have mercury.
Fin Rot Fin Rot is a bacterial disease and often happens to weaker Betta fishes.
Betta Fish Care and Treatment: Application of antibiotics, anti-microbials, and measures containing these is the perfect cure of this disease. One such anthology is Mardel Maracyn 2. Maracyn-2 is an all-purpose antibiotic tablet used for popeye, fin and tail rot, gill ailment, dropsy, septicemia, secondary and inner infections. Changing the water, increasing the temperature and adding a small amount of salt will often attain excellent results.
Dropsy It is caused by an inner, bacterial contagion. It mostly shows itself as stuffed sides and overhanging scales on the Betta fish. Again, the most possible reason is bad water conditions.
Betta Fish Care and Treatment: The application of Mardel's Tetracycline is suggested. Tetracycline is an all purpose antibiotic for ailing fin and tail rot, popeye, gill ailment and dropsy. It is mainly useful against gram-negative pathogenic organisms.
Black Spot It demonstrates small, black scraps on the body of the Betta fish. It is time and again found in fish that are harassed due to shipping.
Betta Fish Care and Treatment: Adding common table salt (sodium chloride) to the water can lend a hand in minimizing the healing time. Adding one teaspoon per gallon is suggested.
Common Beta Fish Treatments
* Copper Sulfate is helpful as an antiseptic for equipment, tanks and bowls. * Formalin is helpful against Ich and parasites. * Malachite Green is generally used to cure protozoan infections.
Betta fish are flexible but do not bear thermal swings splendidly. Bettas are tropical fish and must be placed in tropical temperatures. Betta fish need habitual, twice-weekly water changes in gallon water containers, a combination of foods (not just dry pellets), and your communication to remain healthy.
Most of the ailments or illnesses with tropical freshwater fish can be credited to their surrounding atmosphere.
Nearly always a rapid water change, the adding up of a bit of salt (unionized sea salt is the most excellent, about a level teaspoon per five gallons equivalent) will resolve anything which is ailing them.

Identification and Treatment of Dropsy in Freshwater Aquarium Fish

Question about Dropsy:
I posted about a female Siamese fighting fish (Betta) that appeared to have dropsy a few weeks ago. I treated her twice with Maracyn. After the swelling didn't start to go down, but she is still as swollen as she was then, but has not got to the point were her scales have started to protrude? Do you know what else that it could be. She seems buoyant and the swollen cavity appears to be filled by either air, of a clear liquid, when she swims in front of the lights?
Answer:
Have you tried Kanacyn? Maracyn (Erythromycin) is usually not effective for most causes of Dropsy. And dropsy is generally a symptom of something else, sometimes digestive, often kidney related. Because of this, Dropsy can often be very difficult to treat, especially if caught in an advanced case in the fish. What the aquarist often observes is a "pinecone" swelling generally caused by fluid building inside the body cavity, for this reason, reducing this swelling is an important step in effecting a cure. This said, besides treatment for a possible underlying infection, you want to take steps to remove the swelling.

Here are the steps I would take:

*Change water! (25% should be fine)

*Perform a medicated bath with Methylene Blue. To prepare this bath I use 1 teaspoon 2.303% solution per 5 gallons (double dose) in a bath of aquarium water from the tank the fish you wish to treat came from, I usually use about a ½ gallon of water, however you may use less. Measurement of the Methylene Blue does not need to be precise as this bath should be used for about 30 minutes (although do NOT overdose). Make sure you keep the water in a warm area, as in a cold room the water temperature can drop rapidly which would stress the fish. Do not pour this water back into your display aquarium when finished. This can be performed twice per day.

*Add one tablespoon of regular salt (sodium chloride) per 5 gallons of tank water and ¼ to ½ teaspoon of Epsom salts per 5 gallons of tank water. Add a Wonder Shell (trace element block) or similar product to add needed calcium. What these minerals will do is add electrolytes and change (and improve) the osmotic balance of the fish vs. the surrounding water to hopefully pull fluids thru the body thus reducing swelling.

*Treat tank water with Kanamycin (Kanaplex), or possibly with Neomycin or Nalidixic Acid.

Here is more info about aquarium medications: Aquarium Medications; treatments, how they work, and which ones to use and not to use

Prevention:

The aeromonas bacteria (that is often present in healthy aquariums) can cause infections that will manifest this way in poor water conditions. So maintaining a healthy aquarium with regular water changes, good filtration (if possible, this is why I see more cases of Dropsy in Betta kept in a bowl), good feeding practices (not over feeding and using quality foods), and maintaining proper water parameters (ammonia and nitrites 0, kH 80 ppm, nitrates under 40 ppm). All this goes a long way in prevention of Dropsy and other diseases.

A proper diet makes a large difference here. Do not feed your fish meat based proteins, I recommend aquatic based proteins such as white fish meal, shrimp or even the proteins found in spirulina algae.

As a basic diet I recommend Sanyu or Hikari Betta Gold (there are many other quality foods as well, although I do not recommend flake foods for bettas as their staple diet) Poor quality proteins (or better; unusable amino acids for fish) can lead to digestive problems or Renal failure, which can lead to the symptoms of Dropsy. All proteins are made up of amino acids, some are usable (by fish), and some are not. Those that are not are disposed of by kidneys in the fish. This can lead to renal failure or infection. For more information about proper nutrition, see this article: "Quality Fish Food; What ingredients are needed for proper fish nutrition, growth and health". Also always soak all dry foods in water for 5 minutes prior to feeding as this will remove air that can lead to infections of the digestive tract. I would recommend this as a basic diet for your Betta: Sanyu Betta Gold

For further & expanded information and pictures, please see this article: "Aquarium Answers; DROPSY in fish; prevention, causes, and possible treatment of this symptom. "

Betta Home Preparation: The First Step of Betta Fish Care

Ok, so you've bought a betta, and now you need to know how to care for it! Let's start by setting up a great home for the betta.
In the wild the betta, or Siamese Fighting Fish as you'll see them called sometimes live in rice bogs in Thailand. These bogs are pretty choked by rice plants and don't have a lot of moving water. This makes the betta able to live in pretty small places, as you see by the little cups they're sold in!

It's a good idea to give your betta a bit bigger tank, though. This will help keep the tank from getting choked with waste so fast. A five-gallon tank is great for a betta and still pretty small. If you go bigger then you might want to pick up another kind of fish to share the space with your betta. We'll go over what types of fish make good tank mates later.

One of the cool things about bettas is that they can pull oxygen both from the air and the water. Since they can do that you don't need to worry about an extensive filter system or live plants in the tank. The betta can breathe off of the top. If you're putting in other kinds of fish then pay attention to what their needs are.

Put some colored gravel, fake plants, tank decorations, and a small cave structure in the tank. Bettas like to hide on occasion and they'll appreciate having something to duck under. Be careful to avoid jagged rocks on the bottom, though. Bettas' fins are sensitive and sharp rocks will cut them up. Avoid hard plastic plants for the same reason.

When you add the water make sure to treat any water you take from the tap. Get a water conditioner at your local pet store. This will take the chlorine and heavy metals out of the water, as they're not good for your betta. Even if you let the water stand for a period of time as is often recommended it's still a good idea to use a water conditioner. That will make sure that everything is cleared out.

Add some aquarium salt (different from table salt!) and/or some fish destressing conditioner to the water. This will provide a tonic effect for your betta and help the fish settle in to its new tank. Travel and transferring locations is stressful on your fish. A little preparation on your part can help your fish live much longer.

Find a cover for your tank or only fill it 75%-80% full. Bettas are famous jumpers, which is exciting but means that they could hit the floor if you don't do something to keep them in. You can even cover the top with some plastic wrap in a pinch, but make sure to punch some holes in it to allow air transfer.

As far as water temperature goes you're going to be looking for a range of 75-81 degrees Fahrenheit. If you can't maintain a temperature that high then purchase a small heater for the tank. It's important to keep the water a consistent temperature, and if you live in anywhere colder than Thailand the room temperature may be too cold for your betta.

Before putting the betta into the tank make sure to keep it in the bag you brought it home in and float that in the aquarium for 20 minutes or so. This allows the temperature to equalize so it's not so shocking to the betta. After the bag sits for the 20 minutes pour a little bit of aquarium water into it every ten minutes or so. This will help the betta adjust to the change in water.

Finally you're ready to add your betta to the tank! Just make sure that you DON'T put the water from the bag into the tank. Pet store water is notorious for being full of all kinds of nasty stuff that can contaminate your tank. Instead scoop your betta out carefully with a small net. Be careful not to damage its fins and place it in the tank. Allow it to swim out of the net with a little shake and your fish has a new home!

Bettas are great pets and with a little bit of care they can enjoy a long life!

Choosing Your Own Healthy Betta Fish

Betta fish, also known as Siamese fighting fish, make wonderful pets. They take less care, maintenance and space than many other pets, and are more reasonably prices. They also do not require a large investment in materials and accessories to get started. More importantly, they are very beautiful and fun to watch, as they will learn to respond to you. Males have the most brilliant colors and so make the most beautiful pets. Never put two males together, however, as they will most likely fight. If this happens, they will damage each other and one may actually kill the other.
Choosing a healthy fish at the pet store will go a long way towards making the experience of owning bettas the best is can be.

Go to a reputable pet store and check the surroundings. The cups or bags should be mostly clean and full of living bettas. The water should be clear and fresh, and there should be no bad odors.

Check the betta’s fins. Make sure they are in good shape, not torn or damaged. Also, check the gills. They should be flat and smooth, no peeling.

Check the eyes. A healthy betta has clear eyes. If they are dull, sunken or bulging, pass that fish by.

The body should not have any bumps (parasites) or white patches (fungus infection). The scales should be smooth and flat, not loose or missing. Healthy fish have bright, vivid colors. Avoid those that are dull or pale in color. If the stomach is swollen, it’s probably a sign of a sick fish. Avoid it.

Check its behavior. The fish should be floating upright unless it is sleeping. Move your hand gently towards the container. A healthy betta is very alert and should react in some way to the movement.

If most of the fish seem healthy and happy, then look for that special betta that appeals to you. Once you have found him, be gentle with his container when checking out and taking him home. The less shaking, the less stressed he will be. And the less stressed the betta is, the quicker he will start eating, show good color and learn to like you.

5 tips on proper Betta fish care

The Betta has quickly become one of the most popular freshwater fish in the aquarium trade. In just a few short years, these reatures have gone from a well-kept secret among serious entusiasts, to being found in nearly every office and household, offered for sale in every pet store or major chain store in America.
Betta is a tank fish and its maintenance is quite easy. However, it does need some care and you should be attentive to its heath. A sick Betta is easy to spot since naturally the fish is very active and vibrant. If you have had the fish for a while you will be able to spot immediately when they feel sick.

Following tips can help you keep the Betta fish healthy and active:

1. A bowl large enough to allow ample swimming space is a necessity. The fish shouldn't bump and tear its fins or scales. A large enough tank also ensures that the water has adequate oxygen level. That's why it is recommended to buy a 3-gallon tank for the Betta to have plenty of room. Keep the bowl or tank away from sources of hot and cold air such as heaters, cold or sunny windows, drafts, etc. It's is important that the fish container be kept cool at about 65 to 75 degrees F.

2. Betta fish do not require filtration but need the cleanest water you can provide them. Change the water every three days or so to keep it clean and prevent infection in your fish. The water you add to the tank should have set out for 24 hours, to release some of the chemicals. Avoid buying water from Walmart! Betta owners report that Walmart's water is not neutral and betta can die quickly. Walmart water never gets treated, the ammonia is so high and pH and all that stuff so when you add it to the tank it is so new to the fish that it puts them in shock and kills them.

3. Ensure that the bottom of the bowl or tank is debris free. You can use something as simple as a turkey baster to do this cleaning. Debris sitting at the bottom will make the water cloudy and unhygienic for the fish. They will also cause the water to smell. When cleaning the tank accessories, avoid using soap because traces of soap will change the water pH.

4. Bettas are also called Siamese fighting fish because the male of the species will fight each other to the death. They are highly territorial animals and will react violently if two are placed in the same container. Avoid putting two males in the same tank. Females can stay together and so can one male with many females. You can also keep your Betta with guppies.

5. Pet stores usually don't carry female bettas, because they tend to be less colorful and showy than the males. Also, people are usually just looking for a nice pet, not a breeding hobby. If this is your intention, then I suggest doing some serious research before you start!

If you are looking for more useful tips on proper Betta fish care, please visit my betta fish guide blog, or go directly to the section with fish breeding advice.

Betta Fish Care - Seven Hot Tips On How To Care For Betta Fish

Sure everyone loves Goldfish but there are a very similar type of highly colored and active fish that are just as easy to care for. I'm talking about Betta fish, also known as Siamese Fighting Fish. Hailing from the Mekong river in Asia these beautiful fish usually grow to about 6cm in length although some may reach 8cm's or more. One little known fact is that their natural color is actually a dark green and brown. We see the bright colored ones today simply because of selective breeding by breeders from around the world.
Betta fish are very easy to care for and this makes them a great choice for people who have busy lifestyles and wish to keep pet fish. Below are seven hot tips to keep your Betta fish in tip top shape.

Number 1 - Simple Monitoring

After you've had your Betta fish for a while you will soon recognize their behaviors and activities. You will soon be able to see if your Betta fish are poorly. If your fish seem lethargic measure the temperature of the water. Too cold and your fish will seem listless. The ideal water temperature should be about 28 degrees centigrade (approximately 82 Fahrenheit).

Number 2 - Keep The Water Clean

This may sound obvious to some but your Betta fish need clean water. You shouldn't need a water filter but try to change at least a quarter of the tanks water twice a week. This will insure that it stays nice and clean and will help to keep away any infections. Try not to use water straight out of the cold tap but leave it out for a day at least to let it settle. Be sure to use a PH testing kit (you can get these from your favorite pet store) and try to keep the PH at around 7.0.

Number 3 - Size Matters!

When choosing a tank make sure it will be large enough for your Betta fish to swim around comfortably. A 20 litre tank is ideal. Sharp rocks and stones should be avoided. You don't want your pride and joy to rip or tear any of his/her fins.

Number 4 - Keep A Lid On It

Betta fish like to jump! Knowing this try to keep the water level approximately 6 centimetres below the top of your tank. This, along with the lid, should stop your fish flipping themselves onto the table for your cat to find. DO NOT use an air tight lid! Bettas can take oxygen direct from the waters surface so make sure there are good air holes in the lid.

Number Five - Fish Need Friends Too

It is a wise idea never to keep other Betta fish in the same tank. They are not called Siamese fighting fish for nothing! Try not to keep mirrors or shiny surfaces near the tank as they will flare up at the slightest sign of another Betta, even if it's themselves. Male Bettas tend to be the worst for this type of behavior. It may be fun to watch but all you will do is stress your fish and decrease its lifespan. You can keep other fish with your Bettas. Loaches, platies (or moons) and Cory catfish are ideal tankmates.

Number 6 - Cleaning

Never (and we mean never) use soap or detergents to clean out your fish tank. Simply use a plastic brush and warm water to scrub any rocks or decorations you may have. To remove any old food from the bottom of the tank try using a pipette or a kitchen baster. This will ensure your tank stays nice and fresh and doesn't smell.

Number 7 - Food

Your Betta fish will absolutely love live food such as brine shrimp or bloodworms. Feeding them live food will keep them active and it is great fun to watch them gobbling them all up. For variety try feeding them on thinly chopped vegetables like broccoli, carrots and soybeans. They will enjoy these just as much as live food. Feeding your Bettas on a wider range of food will help them to live longer.

betta fish can be fun

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Keeping Tropical Fish In An Apartment

As a working professional and a kinda hectic commute and living in the city of New York it would really be unfair for me and other people to have cats or dogs. Don't get me wrong I know a lot of people that do and god bless them. Well even though rent has sky rocketed a lot of places still do not allow cats or dogs. So a great alternative that is relatively easy, own tropical fish.
If you don't have a lot of time I would get very easy care level tropical fish which are as followed; Swordtails, Danio, Platy, Betta, Guppies, Tetras, Goldfish. I would also recommend getting an algae eater or two for the tank so you have to do less cleaning such as a snail, suckermouth cats or Plecos. Plecos for bigger tanks of course even though they could go in a 10 gallon tank since they only grow to the size of there environment.
Now depending on your apartment size is the size tank you should get, but also remember that the bigger the tank more problems could come up. So in general I would not get a tank any bigger then 30 Gallons. That could be still a nice amount of fish you could get between 22 to 30 fish. Also most landlords do not mind tropical fish since they do not damage furniture or walls. Well that being said if you have a small apartment like I do I would only get an up to 10 Gallon tank which could have up to 10 fish. I also have a 1 and an half gallon but that has my Betta in it.
Also when buying a tank now a days I would get an aquarium complete kit, which comes with a heater, even though you should buy two. I would explain in a later article why you should do that, a fish net, and a filter and hood with lighting.
What is also great about owning a fish tank there is no smell, and it would add light and a nice relaxing atmosphere to the apartment.
Also remember to get an electronic vacuum they are great. You do not need a bucket like the hand types or air type aquarium vacuums. Even though you should still have a bucket when you do your water changes for your aquarium.
Also get live plants into your tank that would help keep is oxenize the water and if you are gone to long the fish could eat the plants. If you are gone for a long time unlike dogs and cats you do not need a sitter there are long time feeders available to place in your tank depending if you are gone to long. Also when you are not there for a while if you keep the lights off the fish would not eat as much.
Also you don't have to walk your fish. By the way the only tropical fish that could last more then 8 seconds out of fish is the Betta but not much longer so you can't even if you wanted to sorry. Hey at least you do not have to scoop up the poop off the street either.

Betta fish - The First Step of Betta Fish Care

Betta fish - Home Preparation

Ok, so you've bought a betta, and now you need to know how to care for it! Let's start by setting up a great home for the betta.

In the wild the betta, or Siamese Fighting Fish as you'll see them called sometimes live in rice bogs in Thailand. These bogs are pretty choked by rice plants and don't have a lot of moving water. This makes the betta able to live in pretty small places, as you see by the little cups they're sold in!

It's a good idea to give your betta a bit bigger tank, though. This will help keep the tank from getting choked with waste so fast. A five-gallon tank is great for a betta and still pretty small. If you go bigger then you might want to pick up another kind of fish to share the space with your betta. We'll go over what types of fish make good tank mates later.

One of the cool things about bettas is that they can pull oxygen both from the air and the water. Since they can do that you don't need to worry about an extensive filter system or live plants in the tank. The betta can breathe off of the top. If you're putting in other kinds of fish then pay attention to what their needs are.

Put some colored gravel, fake plants, tank decorations, and a small cave structure in the tank. Bettas like to hide on occasion and they'll appreciate having something to duck under. Be careful to avoid jagged rocks on the bottom, though. Bettas' fins are sensitive and sharp rocks will cut them up. Avoid hard plastic plants for the same reason.

When you add the water make sure to treat any water you take from the tap. Get a water conditioner at your local pet store. This will take the chlorine and heavy metals out of the water, as they're not good for your betta. Even if you let the water stand for a period of time as is often recommended it's still a good idea to use a water conditioner. That will make sure that everything is cleared out.

Add some aquarium salt (different from table salt!) and/or some fish destressing conditioner to the water. This will provide a tonic effect for your betta and help the fish settle in to its new tank. Travel and transferring locations is stressful on your fish. A little preparation on your part can help your fish live much longer.

Find a cover for your tank or only fill it 75%-80% full. Bettas are famous jumpers, which is exciting but means that they could hit the floor if you don't do something to keep them in. You can even cover the top with some plastic wrap in a pinch, but make sure to punch some holes in it to allow air transfer.

As far as water temperature goes you're going to be looking for a range of 75-81 degrees Fahrenheit. If you can't maintain a temperature that high then purchase a small heater for the tank. It's important to keep the water a consistent temperature, and if you live in anywhere colder than Thailand the room temperature may be too cold for your betta.

Before putting the betta into the tank make sure to keep it in the bag you brought it home in and float that in the aquarium for 20 minutes or so. This allows the temperature to equalize so it's not so shocking to the betta. After the bag sits for the 20 minutes pour a little bit of aquarium water into it every ten minutes or so. This will help the betta adjust to the change in water.

Finally you're ready to add your betta to the tank! Just make sure that you DON'T put the water from the bag into the tank. Pet store water is notorious for being full of all kinds of nasty stuff that can contaminate your tank. Instead scoop your betta out carefully with a small net. Be careful not to damage its fins and place it in the tank. Allow it to swim out of the net with a little shake and your fish has a new home!

Bettas are great pets and with a little bit of care they can enjoy a long life! with betta fish