Breeding Betta Fish - An Essential Guide

When you decide to breed your Betta Fish, the first step is to make sure you are ready. It will take time, money, space for around fifty jars to separate males, a secure pond with no other fish and a good level of experience caring for Bettas already.
Presuming the answer is yes; the next step is to obtain a female. This can be difficult, as few stores sell them. Once you have both, don't leave them in the same tank. Start with cheap Bettas, to avoid wasting lots of money. Later on, after you become an expert, you can try to breed your own masterpieces. Look for fish with some energy to increase the chances of spawning. The chosen fish should be between seven and eighteen months old, and a spare pair just in case is also a wise precaution.
Prepare the mating tank, ten gallons is about right. Don't add much decorations or gravel, but some large leafed plants will help the female hide from the male. The temperature should be around eighty degrees and the depth about six inches until the fry, or baby fish, begin swimming. Normally, you wouldn't worry about air filtration with Bettas, but the fry will require it. However, they cannot handle a powerful filter. The old-fashioned box type, powered by an air pump is best, and the carbon filter that came with the pump is not acceptable. Instead, use floss or sponges. This is to avoid bad reactions between the carbon and an anti-fungal treatment. It is wise to let the pump operate through a complete cycle before fish are exposed to it to allow bacteria to grow.
Begin feeding the fish high quality food. One breeder recommends the following sequence: BettaMin, Freeze Dried Blood Worms, some live or frozen brine shrimp, then a few live Black Worms. Others swear by tubifex worms and other combinations. Do not overfeed, as this will still force you to clean the tank and replace the water more often. Change twenty percent of the water in each tank each day to help prevent this and encourage the fish to get ready to breed. The male should be in the breeding tank, and should be able to see the female in her tank. He should begin to build a bubble nest.
With the high quality food, the female should begin to plump up as eggs are produced. With lighter colored breeds you can sometimes see the eggs, and the fish should produce horizontal stripes when ready. If that isn't showing, look near the anal fin for a white gravid tube. If this is showing, she is ready.
Now comes the key moment. Plan for at least an hour when you can be present to supervise. Put the female in the water with the male. There can be some rough treatment, including some mutual fin nipping or even worse behavior. If it gets too rough, remove the female and plan to wait a few days to let her recover, but if you don't give them a chance, there won't ever be any fry. If all goes well, they will conduct what is called an embrace, and she will produce eggs under the bubble nest. He will fertilize them and begin to care for the eggs. The female should be removed now, lest she become fish food.
For the next two days, the male will keep the eggs cleaned and in the bubble nest, recovering any that fall. Then come the fry. For about thirty-six hours, they'll be unable to move out of the tank. Around two days after hatching, the first fry will begin to swim without help. At this point, remove the male fish lest the fry become fish food. A day after the fry hatch, they need their first feeding, and baby brine shrimp, daphnia, microworms, or liquid fry food for egg layers are good choices. They'll need feeding up to five times a day.
Now comes the hard part. Many experienced breeders say this can only be done in a suitable pond. The temperature must be above at least 68 and preferably 70 degrees. There must be no fish to eat the fry, and a variety of tiny aquatic creatures to eat.
After about ten days, they can take a little powdered food. This is a small amount of very finely crushed flake food. They should be about a quarter of an inch long. At about four weeks, they should be around a half inch long, and should begin to show sexual dimorphism, so you can tell the males from the females. Separate the males from each other before fighting begins.

Breeding Betta Fish Made Easy In 5 Steps

I got my first betta fish as a teenager and enjoyed that first betta for several years.
The Siamese Fighting Fish, commonly called betta, is one of the most popular freshwater aquarium fish. Bettas earn the nickname "jewel of the orient" because of their range of brilliant colors. The males particularly sport long flowing beautiful fins. Their beauty causes many to enjoy the hobby of breeding betta fish.
The temperament of the fish is very aggressive. Males especially will readily fight other males. Females may also be prone to fight.
1. Care of males and females.
It is essential to distinguish between males and females, but it isn't always easy to do. Males do tend to have larger and fuller fins. Studying pictures of the differences will help. Each male should be kept in his own bowl or tank. Two males in the same tank will usually fight until one is dead. Even a male and female should be together only briefly for spawning. Otherwise the male will often treat the female roughly and do permanent damage.
Several females can usually be kept in the same tank provided there is sufficient room. There should be more than two females, otherwise one will dominate and continually chase the other female.
2. Water conditions are important for breeding betta fish.
The betta's native habitat is vast, shallow freshwater paddies of Southeast Asia. The fish must have access to the surface of the water, since it takes oxygen directly from the atmosphere as well as through their gills. Since they can get oxygen from the surface, they can survive in smaller spaces and poorer condition than other aquarium fish. Though they do best in clean, filtered water. They can be kept in bowls under the right conditions, but a portion of the water should be changed very frequently. It's best to allow about three gallons per fish. And it's recommended to have a minimum tank size of six gallons so a heater can be used. The right water temperature is 75 - 84 degrees F. At those temperatures the fish will be quite active.
3. Choose the right food.
Bettas are carnivorous but they can do well on food labelled for betta fish. The addition of live or frozen blood worms (mosquito larvae) and live or frozen shrimp brine is recommended. Most aquarium bred fish will also accept dried flaked aquarium tropical fish food.
4. Mating.
Males build a nest of air bubbles for the baby fish or fry. And the males care for the young.
For spawning, a female is introduced into the male tank. If conditions are right for mating, the male fish will squeeze the female. Eggs will be expelled, then fertilized by the male. The female should then be removed to her tank to prevent her injury by the male fish. Even if spawning does not take place, the female should be removed.
The male fish will care for the eggs until the fry emerge in a few days.
5. Providing for the young.
The released little fish or fry are very tiny and vulnerable. Most often they are raised in special ponds where they feed on tiny microscopic living creatures. Some have success raising the fry in bowls or aquariums. But the conditions must be right, similar to the usual pond environment.
For much more information on breeding bettas and successfully raising

Betta Breeding in Easy Steps

The Siamese Fighting Fish, commonly called betta, is one of the most popular freshwater aquarium fish. Bettas earn the nickname "jewel of the orient" because of their brilliant colors. The males particularly sport long, flowing, beautiful fins. If you see bettas in a pet store what you usually see are the males. People like the beautiful colors and usually purchase one at a time as "pets".
The temperament of the fish is very aggressive. Males especially will readily fight other males. Females may also be prone to fight.
Separate care of males and females.
It is essential to distinguish between adult males and females, but it isn't always easy to do. It's important though, since two males in close quarters will engage in fish-to-fish combat to the death. They don't get along very well with most other fish either! Very foul in disposition, aren't they!
Males tend to have larger, more colorful and fuller fins. Studying pictures of the differences will help you learn to tell them apart. Each male should be kept in his own bowl or tank. Two males in the same tank will usually fight until one is dead. Even a male and female should be together only briefly for spawning. Otherwise the male will often treat the female roughly and do permanent damage, at least to the ripping of fins.
Several females can usually be kept in the same tank provided there is sufficient room. However, there should be more than two females, otherwise one will dominate and continually chase the other female. Some aquatic plants in the tank make it easier for the fish to maintain some separation.
Water conditions.
The betta's native habitat is the vast, shallow freshwater paddies of Southeast Asia. The fish must have access to the surface of the water, since it takes oxygen directly from the atmosphere as well as through their gills. Since they can get oxygen from the surface, they can survive in smaller spaces and poorer condition than other aquarium fish. The little cups that the fish are purchased in at a pet store certainly aren't adequate. They actually do best in clean, filtered water.
Male fish are often kept in bowls of about one and one-half gallons without supplemental heat or oxygen. If kept like this, the water should be changed when it becomes cloudy, every one to two weeks. Or you can change about 20 percent of the water every day or two. Then every few weeks you can completely clean the tank including all the gravel.
The general recommendation is to allow about three gallons per fish. So with a ten gallon tank three or four females would have plenty of room. And it's recommended to have a minimum tank size of six gallons so a heater can be used. With smaller tanks a heater can cause more temperature variation than the fish can tolerate. The right water temperature is 75 - 84 degrees F. At those temperatures the fish will be quite active.
The fish can also do well at 65 - 75 degrees F, though they will not be as active at the lower temperature. Since they aren't as active at the cooler temperature, the bowls will stay cleaner.
Feeding your breeding bettas.
Bettas are carnivorous, but can usually do well on food labelled for betta fish. The addition of live or frozen blood worms (mosquito larvae) and live or frozen shrimp brine is recommended. Most aquarium bred fish will also accept dried flaked aquarium tropical fish food.
Some breeders recommend black worms as supplemental feed especially for spawning females. Black worms are Lumbriculus variegatus. The worms can be kept in cool, clean, unchlorinated water. Some breeds of fish do not like these worms, but bettas prefer them.
Mating.
Males build a nest of air bubbles for the baby fish or fry.
For spawning, a female is introduced into the male tank. If conditions are right for mating, the male fish will squeeze the female. Eggs will be expelled, then fertilized by the male. The eggs will float into the bubble nest. The female should then be removed to her tank to prevent her injury by the male fish. Even if spawning does not take place, the female should be removed.
The male fish will care for the eggs until the young emerge in a few days.
The fry.
The released little fish or fry are very tiny and vulnerable. Most often they are raised in special ponds where they feed on tiny microscopic living creatures. Some have success raising the fry in bowls or acquariums. But the conditions must be right, similar to the usual pond environment.
For much more information on breeding bettas and successfully raising

10 Essential Betta Tank Setup Tips

Just like any other pet, you are going to have to do a bit of work to make sure that your new betta will live in comfort. If you are bringing home a new betta fish there are a variety of setup tasks that you will need to do to make sure that your betta will have a healthy tank to call home. The following are some essential tips for setting up the tank for your new betta fish.
Tip #1 - Tanks Size - It is important that you have a tank or bowl that will be large enough for your new betta fish. You want to be sure that when your betta swims around he will not constantly be bumping into the sides and hurting his fins. Make sure that the tank gives enough swimming space and that it has a large enough surface so enough oxygen will be available for your fish.
Tip #2 - Have a Cover for the Tank - Another important setup tip for your tank is that you have a cover for your tank as well. If you do not have a cover, or you fail to put the cover on, your fish may jump out of the tank and either hurt himself or die.
Tip #3 - Treat the Water - It can actually be dangerous to use water straight from the tap for your betta fish; however, using bottled or purified water is not the answer either. The best thing to do is to treat the water from your tap with a product like Amquel or Stress Coat to help get rid of the chlorine in the water. After treating the water it probably should set for almost a week to make sure that all the chemicals have evaporated from the water. Chlorine can actually kill your betta, so be sure that you treat the water first.
Tip #4 - Choose the Right Substrate - It is important that you choose the right substrate for in your tank as well. More than likely you will want some plants in your tank so you want a substrate that is great for both the plants and your fish. While the colored substrate may look great, it is probably a bad idea since the paint can flake off causing problems. Choose a natural color of substrate, and one that will be conducive to both plants and your betta fish. Many times sand is actually a very cheap and excellent choice.
Tip #5 - Choose Appropriate Plants - Plants are a great idea for your fish tank since they can help keep the water cleaner and also provide the tank with more oxygen, but it is important that you choose the right plants for your betta. One of the best plants to use in a betta tank is the Amazon Sword plant; however, you may need to keep this plant trimmed if it starts to take over the tank.
Tip #6 - Tank Temperature - Having your tank at the right temperature is very important for your betta fish as well. Usually the best temperature for your betta fish tank is about 80 F. Any colder than this can be hard on your fish, and too warm can be a problem as well.
Tip #7 - Food for Your Betta - It is important that you also have the right food available for your betta as well. Now it is possible to get betta fish food tablets to feed your fish, but you may want to have some live food to give them as well. It is very important that you do not overfeed your betta fish or it can cause problems in the water or result in your betta overeating, which is not healthy. Try to make sure that your betta gets a well rounded diet to keep him healthy.
Tip #8 - Provide Light - It is also important that you can provide your betta fish with enough light. Both your betta fish and the healthy bacteria will need plenty of light, so you may want to install a light in the tank if you feel they may need more light. Make sure that they get at least eight hours of good light each day. It is also important that you turn out the light at night so your fish can get some sleep as well.
Tip #9 - Tank Placement - If you do not have a light for your aquarium, make sure you place the tank where it will get plenty of light. You also need to make sure that you have an aquarium stand that will take the weight of a full tank as well.
Tip #10 - Avoid Metal Decorations - One important thing to remember when you are setting up a tank for your fish is to avoid metal decorations. Metal can cause serious problems for your betta, so you need to avoid it in your tank. Those metal tank decorations may look great, but they can actually kill your betta, so forget about using them in your tank.

Beware of These Common Betta Fish Illnesses

Betta fish make fun and beautiful pets, but more than likely your betta fish is going to get sick at some point in time. It is important that you are prepared to treat your betta when he is sick and this includes being aware of various diseases that affect betta fish, their symptoms, and how you can treat them. Once you know the basics of betta fish diseases you will be better prepared to recognize and treat your betta to prevent the disease becoming too serious or even fatal. The following are five of the most common diseases that affect betta fish.
Tail or Fin Rot
Tail rot and fin rot are common betta diseases that are caused by water that becomes too dirty. You can actually prevent this disease from ever affecting your fish if you are careful to always keep their water clean. As a general rule this is an easy condition to treat and it does not seem to be contagious either. If you treat your fish as soon as possible you will be able to stop the progression of the disease and their tails and fins will grow back.
Some of the symptoms to look for include the betta's tail and fins getting shorter and shorter. Their fins may also start to have a darker color and they may appear as if they are dissolving or actually falling apart. While some betta's may not even act sick, others may stop eating, get clumped fins, and start looking pale.
Thankfully treating tail and fin rot is fairly easy and will provide results in a few weeks. For treatment you will need to do a full jar water change and use Fungus Eliminator, as well as either tetracycline or Triple Sulfa. After the initial change you will need to be sure to change the water every three days and when you do you should add more medication to the water as well. It is important that you continue the treatment until you fish improves and you seen new fin and tail growth occurring. This may take a few weeks, so continue the treatment until your fish improve.
Ick
Another very common disease in betta fish is ick. Ick is actually a type of parasite and many times it is present in frozen food that is live. Although ick is one of the most contagious betta diseases, it can be treated. You can prevent your fish from getting ick by adding Aquarisol and salt to your fish's water.
If you start to see white dots appearing on your betta's body, including the head and even his eyes, this is a sign that your fish has ick. More than likely your beta will also become much less active than before and may appear sick and have clumped fins as well. They may feel itchy, so you may see them darting and rubbing against rocks in their tanks.
Since ick is such a contagious disease it is best to go ahead and treat the entire tank of fish for disease. Ick is very sensitive to temperature, so you should raise the temperature in your tank to about 85 degrees F. For every gallon in your tank, add one drop of Aquarisol every single day until your fish are better. Usually it will only take a few days to get rid of this disease.
Dropsy
Dropsy is actually the most common disease among bettas and it is also the most likely to be fatal to your fish as well. While not a great deal is known about this disease many feel that it is linked to live foods, and it especially seems linked to feeding them the black worms. Many people have found that they can prevent dropsy all together by not allowing their fish to eat black worms.
The symptoms of dropsy are quite easy to recognize and they include a bloated belly and scales that appear as if they are raised. The raised scales may actually appear very similar to a pine cone.
Unfortunately there is not a known cure for this betta fish disease. It is, however, very important that you isolate the betta that appears to have dropsy as soon as possible so the other fish will not contract the disease.
Swim Bladder Disorder
Another very common disease that betta's may get is swim bladder disorder. This actually comes as a result from feeding them too much. This disease is not contagious, and as a general rule it affects the younger bettas if they have eaten to much or have become very stressed.
If you see a betta that is having a hard time swimming, seems off balance, or prefers to just lay near the bottom, there is a good chance they are suffering from swim bladder disorder. Many times you will see them just sliding along on the bottom of the tank as well.
Many times you will find that your betta will recover by himself, but it is probably a good idea to not feed them as much for a few days. It is also helpful to eliminate brine shrimp from their diet as well, as this can actually cause part of the problem. In the future, try to be sure that you feed your fish a balanced diet to prevent this from happening again.
These are just a few of the common betta fish diseases that you my deal with in your bettas. Other diseases that bettas may have to deal with include external parasites, bacterial infection, fungal infection, depression, and velvet. Having medications on hand such as tetracyclin, Ampicillin, jungle fungus eliminator, and maracin 1 and 2. Just taking some simple preventive measures can help keep your fish from developing many of these diseases, but it important to know what to do if these diseases occur in your fish.

Choosing Plants for Your Betta Fish Tank

Betta fish use plants as a defensive strategy in their natural environments. This allows them to avoid contact with predators and other male Bettas Nervous or threatened-feeling Bettas will squeeze through close together plants to escape danger. Because of this, it is important to include some kind of plant in your Betta's tank, to reduce stress and allow it to feel that it can hide. While some people prefer artificial plants in their aquariums, live plants help to take care of harmful chemical byproducts in the tank, such as ammonia, nitrite and nitrates. They also perform the important function of gas exchange, keeping the water more oxygenated than an environment without plants or with artificial plants. Soft and leafy plants are preferred, to prevent damage to the Betta's scales should it squeeze between leaves or branches.
Plants do require light, however. An aquarium with live plants should have either access to sunlight or a light built into the hood. Some plants which are recommended for use with Betta fish are the floating Water Sprite, Hornwort, and Elodea. Tiger Lotus is considered good for use in tanks with breeding Bettas since it puts out a lily-pad-like leaf that sits on the surface of the water. Male Bettas use this leaf to shelter their bubble nests. Be sure to keep an eye on your Betta tank's plants, since dead and rotting vegetation can be bad for the water quality. Java Moss and Java Ferns can thrive in uncycled bowls without any filtration. They also require low to medium light, and are thus suitable for aquariums or enclosures that cannot be put close to a window.
Live plants for your Betta tank can be found locally from some aquarium stores or ordered from the Internet. All plants should be bright green and very healthy looking. They should also be quarantined before placing them in with the fish, to make sure that they do not carry diseases or parasites that could harm your Betta Be sure to acquire plants from a reputable source. It is wise to do some research into your supplier before purchasing live plants for your Betta tank. Bettas tend to interact more with live plants than with artificial plants. Many types of artificial plants are also rough and could damage fins and scales. Unlike fake plants, real ones will also sway attractively in the water as the fish swims through them. When the time comes to clean the tank, some plants can be gently removed and rinsed if this is desired. This is particularly easy when using free floating plants like the Java fern.

Guide to Betta Fish Food

Bettas are carnivorous. In the wild, they live off of insects and their larvae. Their mouth is designed to snatch prey on the surface of the water, and their digestive tract is too short to metabolize most plants. This means they are best suited for live food, but they can adapt to flakes and frozen or freeze dried foods.
If flake food is used, it should be supplemented by frozen, freeze dried or live food.
Brine shrimp, Daphnia, plankton, tubifex, glassworms, and beef heart are all good choices to feed Bettas, and are commonly available frozen or freeze dried. Note that Bettas can take up to a week to recognize a new food type, so you should keep the staple food constant and supplement with treats and other types of food occasionally. Most appear to prefer a mix of brine shrimp and bloodworms for their Bettas.
There are dedicated Betta foods on the market. These are usually pellets and should float on the surface for easy consumption. Hikari Betta Bio-Gold is well regarded, as are HBH Betta Bites and San Francisco Bay Brand Betta Food, which is essentially freeze dried bloodworms. Other brands have complaints about Bettas refusing to eat, inadequate nutrition and sinking pellets that Bettas can't consume fast enough.
With the Hikari Betta Bio-Gold, there are complaints about the packaging, but the larger sizes are easier to use. Remember that each Betta only needs about three pellets, and overfeeding will result in contamination of the tank. This is both because of food that rots and excess defecation from the overfed fish.
Some Bettas won't eat bloodworms, while others adore them. However, bloodworms are not a complete diet, and should be used as a treat or supplement for those fish that appreciate them. Most say their Bettas prefer live food, but some believe that too much live food can be bad for a Betta.
Let the Betta see the food coming. Drop the food right in front of the fish, so he doesn't have to hunt for it. If the food isn't eaten immediately, you should wait for the fish, but if it isn't consumed in 15 minutes, remove it and try again later. Start small, perhaps 6 brine shrimp, and if the Betta eats them all and there is no sign of belly distention, and the fish still acts hungry, you may feed it a little more, but the second feeding should be smaller.
There are products marketed at Betta vacation foods, but results are mixed. Some appear to swear by them, while others complain of the overfeeding issues listed above.
Additionally, many fish foods claim to be color enhancers. It appears the actual importance is proper nutrition and good conditions, so any good source of nutrients would be about as effective in color enhancement as any other.
Adult Bettas can be happy with feedings once or twice a day, provided care is taken to present a balanced diet and the correct amount of food is provided.

Anatomy of the Japanese Fighting Fish

The fish most commonly known as Bettas are a species of the genus Betta called Betta splendens. Like other Bettas, these fish can survive in very small bodies of fresh water, thanks to a special organ called the labyrinth. Because of this organ, which allows them to breathe atmospheric air, they are able to thrive in low oxygen water, including puddles, ditches, slow streams and rice paddies. Bettas are about two to two and a half inches long and live, on average, for about four years. Some specimens have lived up to a decade in laboratory settings.
Historically, Bettas have been used in some Asian countries for a sport rather like cockfighting. Because of this, they are also known as Siamese fighting fish. The specimens used for this sport were bred to be short-finned and very aggressive. Modern Bettas are more likely to be showy, decorative animals. Originally, only the males of the species showed the bright colors that are synonymous with Bettas, but recent strains have produced bright, showy females as well.
Female Bettas are the same general size and conformation as males, but have shorter fins. In males, the pelvic fins in particular are very long and extended. Specialized types of male Bettas with particularly unusual tails have been bred, including the crowntail, double tail, and halfmoon tail Bettas. As male Bettas age, the tail becomes larger, longer, and heavier. Eventually, this causes the fish to become sluggish, and it will eventually lose the tail. It will grow back, but not look exactly the same, and the loss of the tail rejuvenates the fish.
Betta fish are carnivores. Their mouths are full of rows of tiny pointed teeth. Despite the sharpness of these teeth, the males routinely carry eggs in their mouths without causing any damage. In captivity, they eat homogenized Betta pellets or bloodworms and brine shrimp. Many aquarium-bred fish will also accept flaked tropical fish food.
Male Bettas raise their babies. They build bubble nests for this purpose, and will even do so if there are not females or babies around. They do this by manipulating bubbles of air with their mouths into nests of various sizes and thicknesses at the top of the water. Many Bettas prefer some sort of shelter, such as vegetation, for their bubble nests.
The lower half of the Betta's anatomy is mostly swim bladder, flesh and bone. The internal organs are located between the head and the beginning of the anal fin. This fin is the large fin on the lower half of the fish's body, in front of the tail. The other fins are called the dorsal, pectoral, and pelvic fins. Bettas also have gill covers, which they may flap open in response to a perceived threat. Male Betta fish are famous for their displays when confronted with other males. They open their brightly colored fins and flap the gill covers in an attempt to look larger than they actually are.

Betta Fish - Essential Facts On How To Keeping Them Alive and Well

The betta fish is a popular fish among fish hobbyists. As the betta is an attractive fish, many of them use this fish to add beauty to their aquarium. However, there are some people who prefer to keep their bettas in small containers as pets. Although rearing bettas are not difficult as these fishes are known for its physical hardiness, there are some points that we need to observe in order to keep these fishes well.
Due to its quality of physical toughness, the betta fish can survive well even if it is placed in small bowls or jars. The betta is a labyrinth fish and is able to breathe atmospheric air. Hence, give a small space, it will not suffer any oxygen deficiency because it can swim to the surface of the water to breathe air. Although the betta can thrive in small containers, it is important that the water in these containers be changed regularly. The smaller the water space, the more often is the need to change the water. If a betta is reared in a small living space with poor water conditions, it will not reach its full coloration and high activity levels.
Bettas should be kept in water with temperature between 74 degrees F and 84 degrees F. If the temperature is above 84 degrees F, the betta will display some discomfort and in the long run, they may age faster. When changing water, it should be ascertained that the temperature of the new water be similar to that of the old water. This is to ensure that the betta will not experience a sudden change of temperature and become sick. If small containers are used to keep the betta, the water in these containers need not be filtered. However, if larger containers are used, filtering is encouraged as it can lengthen the time needed for a water change.
It is not advisable to place more than one male betta fish in an aquarium. If this happens, the bettas will become aggressive and attempt to defend their territory within the small space. Hence, they may cause harm to each other. It is very rare that two female bettas will fight against each other, though sometimes there may be a little fin nipping between the two. As such, most of the time, there is no serious injury. Placing a male and female betta together with other fishes in a community aquarium can create problems. This is because there is a possibility that these two bettas may start spawning and this may affect other fishes in the tank. When you place a betta in a community aquarium, you should ensure that the other fishes in the aquarium are not the aggressive type. This is to prevent attacks from these fishes which can result in damage and injury.
Bettas have a rapid metabolic rate, hence, it is advisable that these fishes be fed with small, frequent meals. If too much food is given in one feeding, the betta may not consume all the food and the remaining food may cause pollution of water.
The above are some points we need to note if we want to keep our bettas well. Keeping the betta is an interesting, enriching and rewarding hobby. You can choose to keep it in an aquarium or in a small container. As there are many types of bettas available, you can have more choices to select the type you like. Once you have started this hobby, your passion will grow and eventually you will want to learn more about this remarkable fish and hope to keep more of them. For more information on care for

Breeding Betta Fish - The Challenge!

The betta fish is among the most popular freshwater aquarium fish. Bettas are known as the "jewel of the orient" because of their brilliant colors. The males particularly sport long, flowing, beautiful fins. As a result, bettas in pet stores are usually males. People like the beautiful colors and usually purchase one at a time as "pets".
These fish are very aggressive. Males readily fight other males. Females may also fight.
Breeding betta fish is often a challenge taken up by betta fans.
1. Separate care of males and females.
It's necessary to distinguish between adult males and females, but it isn't always easy to do. It's important, since two males in close quarters will engage in fish-to-fish combat to the death. They don't get along very well with most other fish either! Very foul in disposition, aren't they?
Each male should be kept in his own bowl or tank. Two males in the same tank will usually fight until one is dead. Even a male and female should be together only briefly at spawning. Otherwise the male will often treat the female roughly and do permanent damage.
Several females can sometimes be kept in the same tank, provided there is plenty of room. However, there should be more than two females, otherwise one will dominate and continually chase the other female. Some aquatic plants in the tank make it easier for the fish to maintain some separation.
2. Water conditions.
The betta's native habitat is the vast, shallow freshwater paddies of Southeast Asia. The fish must have access to the surface of the water, since it takes oxygen directly from the atmosphere as well as through their gills. Since they can get oxygen from the surface, they can survive in smaller spaces and poorer condition than other aquarium fish. The little cups that the fish are purchased in at a pet store certainly aren't adequate. They actually do best in clean, filtered water.
Male fish are often kept in bowls of about one and one-half gallons without supplemental heat or oxygen. If kept like this, the water should be changed when it becomes cloudy, every one to two weeks. Or you can change about 20 percent of the water every day or two. Then every few weeks completely clean the tank including all the gravel.
The general recommendation is to allow about three gallons of water per fish. With a ten gallon tank three or four females would have plenty of room. It's recommended to have a minimum tank size of six gallons so a heater can be used. With smaller tanks a heater can cause more temperature variation than the fish can tolerate. The right water temperature is 75 - 84 degrees F. At those temperatures the fish will be quite active.
The fish can also do well at 65 - 75 degrees F, though they will not be as active at the lower temperature. Since they aren't as active at the cooler temperature, the bowls will stay cleaner.
3. Feeding your breeding betta fish.
Bettas are carnivorous, but can usually do well on food labeled for betta fish. The addition of live or frozen blood worms (mosquito larvae) and live or frozen shrimp brine is recommended. Most aquarium bred fish will also accept dried flaked aquarium tropical fish food.
Some breeders recommend black worms as supplemental feed especially for spawning females. Black worms are Lumbriculus variegatus. The worms can be kept in cool, clean, unchlorinated water. Some breeds of fish do not like these worms, but bettas prefer them.
4. Mating betta fish.
Males bettas build a nest of air bubbles for the baby fish or fry.
For spawning, a female is introduced into the male tank. If conditions are right for mating, the male fish will squeeze the female. Eggs will be expelled, then fertilized by the male. The eggs will float into the bubble nest. The female should then be removed to her tank to prevent her injury by the male fish. Even if spawning does not take place, the female should be removed.
The male fish will care for the eggs until the young emerge in a few days.
5. The fry.
The released little fish or fry are very tiny and vulnerable. Most often they are raised in special ponds where they feed on tiny microscopic living creatures. Some have success raising the fry in bowls or aquariums. But the conditions must be right, similar to the usual pond environment.

Tips For Buying A Healthy Betta

Tips For Buying A Healthy Betta
We all want a great looking Betta that won't die on us after just a few days. Here's a quick guide to help you find that healthy Betta.
First of all, make sure it's alive! I can't count the number of times I've seen dead Betta's sitting on pet store shelves.
Body
Look for bumps, or lumps of any kind anywhere on the body. A healthy Betta has smooth scales along its body. Any loose or missing scales are signs of sickness or previous trauma. A swollen stomach is also a clear sign of a sick Betta. If you notice any white patches anywhere on the body you're probably seeing fungus.
Fin and Gills
Although this may sometimes be difficult to tell at the pet store where many Betta's are stored in tiny bags or boxes, take a look at the fish's fins and gills. Betta fins should be able to expand fully with no holes, discolorations, or tears.
The Gills should be smooth with no discoloration or lumps.
Behavior
Bring your hand toward the Betta, without tapping the bowl or poking the bag the betta is stored in, but just close enough and make sure the Betta is alert. Healthy Betta's are alert and react to your movements. They may or may not flare at your movements.
Color
Unhealthy Betta's appear pale in color and may have discoloration along their face or body.
Keep in mind that this is only a guide. It's important to remember that a healthy Betta will only stay healthy if you treat it right. After you purchase that Betta it's up to you to keep it healthy, otherwise, your new Betta will end up on a magical journey down the toilet.

Sick Betta Fish - Betta Fish Constipation

Constipation
These notes are for educational purposes only. Attempts have been made to verify the accuracy of this document, but you should consult your normal qualified expert such as a Vet. If you decide to act on this information without consulting such an expert, you do so at your own volition as I cannot be held responsible for action you take. This said I have made it my business to check and re-check everything that has been inserted here.
Constipation is not what is commonly known as a disease, but it is pointed out here as betta fish commonly suffer from it. The symptoms to look out for are:
Lethargy/sluggishness
Swollen stomach
Lousy appetite
Over-feeding with foods such as flake foods, freeze dried bloodworms or brine shrimp can be the cause of your betta fish having constipation. While this food is okay, you should feed your bettas live food now and again, giving them a variety in the diet. In the wild the bettas eat insects and such, they wait until they see a hapless insect drop onto the surface of the shallow water they live in and quickly come to the surface to catch them. Therefore in order to maintain a healthy betta fish, you should not only feed them with the frozen or dried foods.
To remedy the constipation, instead of their normal food, for 24 - 48 hours feed them with small pieces of cooked skinless pea (get it from the pet store). Sometimes the betta will refuse to eat the pea, if that happens you will have to starve him for the allotted time as the fish needs to have his system cleaned out. If the pea feeding is successful you will plainly see the deposits on the floor of the aquarium and the swelling in your bettas' stomach will be reduced.
The pea acts as roughage and slowly does its job of cleaning out the bettas' system. Failing this treatment, all you will be able to do is wait and let nature take over.

Top 10 Frequently Asked Questions on Betta Fish Explained!

Betta Fish, arguably the most popular type of fish found in the home today across all the world. This astonishing fish displays a vibrant personality whilst posing the most magnificent colour and fin structure helping to create a truly jaw dropping aquarium that you can show off to your guests!
Originating from the paddy fields of Vietnam, Betta are an astounding fish and I will be answering in this article the 10 most popular questions I get asked on a regular basis about Betta Fish. So lets get started...
1. How do you stop Betta Fish from Fighting?
This is probably one of the most popular questions I get asked!
In my experience I've found a few ways that work...
One way is simply to get a bigger tank. With the bigger tank you can include a couple of new plants, bear in mind you don't want to over do it with the plants otherwise you will ruin your fish display (not very appealing to your guests!). By making the tank bigger and introducing a few more plants it creates extra hiding places for your Betta when the aggressive one is on the war path!
A second way is to simply separate the aggressive fish from the rest. This can be done by putting a divider into your tank, or by taking the aggressive fish out and putting it into a new tank. I would personally recommend putting a divider into your tank, size permitting of course, as your Betta will know the other Betta Fish are there. It also helps when it comes to the breeding process because introductions would have already been made.
Thirdly, you must NEVER, I repeat NEVER put a male Betta in with another male Betta Fish, period! Otherwise, they will fight to the death (this is why they are also known as Siamese Fighting Fish!). So by not keeping males together this will reduce fighting astronomically.
Female Betta's have been known to be aggressive and fight between each other, particularly if you have 2 together. However, this is just an "I'm the leader" thing going on between them and usually wears off , but a technique I've used and seen have great success to stop this happening is to add a 3rd female into the tank. By doing this any tension between the previous two is removed - try it, you'll be surprised how effective it is!
2. Can You Keep Male and Female Betta Fish Together?
Yes you can. However, I would recommend keeping a close eye on the male Betta just in case he becomes too aggressive and the female needs to be removed. As I mentioned above having plants in the tank can help the female hide if the male becomes aggressive.
3. How Do You Tell the Difference Between a Male and Female Betta Fish?
I always remember the saying "It's easy when you know how..." when I get asked this question because when I first started breeding Betta Fish it took me ages to recognise the difference between a male and a female...
You will tend to find that female Betta's have fat bellies where as males tend to have a more streamlined structure. Also, you will find that males have a longer body and fins whereas the females are shorter in body size and fin length.
Also, male Betta Fish tend to have more colour and longer pointed anal fins compared to their female counterparts (sorry ladies!). You will also find female anal fins are more level to their body. The anal fin is the rigid looking fin coming from the bottom of the Betta Fish.
However, one giveaway of a female is her white spot on the underside of her belly. This white spot is called the ovipositor and is used during the breeding process.
4. What are the Best Caring Tips for Betta Fish?
Lots of people have written books on the subject of caring for Betta Fish but I'm going to give you my best tips that I've picked up along the way...
- Test your water's acidity level regularly. A PH level of 7 works best in my experience.
- Always try and keep the water temperature at around 75-80 Fahrenheit. I would recommend testing this regularly using a floating thermometer because big drops in water temperature can cause stress on your fish. Floating thermometers in my experience give the best accuracy reading because they are kept in the tank water.
- Always keep a lid/cover over the top of your tank with air holes in it because Betta Fish can jump and you might not be there to catch them!
- Any filtration system should be kept at a low level and you must take care not to put the air intake in such a position that it could cause your Betta to get hurt. Having your filter system at a high setting has been known to cause stress to your Betta.
- Try and clean your tank regularly, ideally twice a week. Remove bits of food caught under the stones, castles or leaves of your tank.
- As a rule of thumb I recommend 3 quarters of a gallon per Betta fish in your tank. Also, try and get a spacious tank to allow your Betta plenty of room to show off their personality, you'll be surprised some are very exciting to watch!
I've always found if you love your Betta like you love your own then you won't go far wrong, and with implementing the above you will be well on your way to having truly astonishing Betta Fish.
5. What should I feed my Betta Fish?
Surprisingly, Betta Fish are known to be fussy eaters (and you thought us humans were bad!). So it is best to feed them on a variety of foods, such as:
- Brine shrimp - Daphnia - Frozen Bloodworms - Blackworms (Tubifex) worms - Combination Betta Pellets from Pet Shops - Powder Fish Food if feeding Fry - Vegetables (such as green beans, not a whole one but in tiny portions)
I tend to find a regular feeding pattern of 2-3 times a day works best for Betta. Try as well to make portions eaten in one sitting otherwise any leftover food could lead to additional bacteria in the tank potentially causing disease for your Betta Fish.
6. What are Betta Fish also Known as?
Not a lot of people know this but Betta Fish are also known as Siamese Fighting Fish. The name originates because of the males aggressiveness and their "Fight to the Death" attitude if two males are put in the same tank together.
Betta fish are often referred to as Betta Splendens but this is a type of breed of Betta, which leads us nicely onto the next question...
7. What are the Different Types of Betta Fish Available?
There are many types of Betta Fish available, the most popular types I've listed below:
- Betta Splendens (the most common type) - Betta Bellica - Betta Coccina - Betta Picta
Some of the most popular Tail Types of Betta are:
- Veil Tail (this generally the most common tail type that you find at the pet stores)
- Delta Fish (normally any fish under the 180 degree tail span is considered a Delta)
- Super Delta Fish (normally any Betta with a tail span of 120-180 degrees)
- Fan Tail (the Betta's tail displays a smoothly rounded edge)
- Half Moon (as it's name suggest it's tail is the shape of a half moon - a 180 degrees span, this is the fish most breeders strive to achieve and display a truly fabulous colour!)
- Pin (Spade) Tail (the Betta's tail is pointed at the end)
Depending on what you are looking for this should hopefully give you enough information to choose a Betta fish at the pet store! ;-)
8. Can I Put Bamboo in With My Betta Fish?
Bamboo or Lucky Bamboo as it is also known, the type that is sold from pet stores, can be put into your tank with your Betta Fish. The bamboo can make your tank look more attractive and appealing to your guests, which is always a bonus!
However, what I recommend is that the bamboo is washed thoroughly before entry into the tank to help ensure there are no chemicals on it that could hurt your Betta. Also, it is a good idea to check the bamboo regularly just to see if it is rotting because it could release bacteria into your tank's water that could potentially harm your Betta fish. Changing your tank's water often will reduce the threat of bacteria happening.
9. What Ammonia Level Should My Tank be at?
Ideally, you want an ammonia level between 0-0.5. By changing your water regularly (about 30-50% twice a week, if you have high ammonia) this will help reduce the ammonia in your tank.
It is a good idea to monitor ammonia levels on a regular basis, because a high level is not healthy for your Betta Fish.
10. Would a Father Betta Harm His Children?
Unfortunately, a male (Father) Betta would harm his children (Fry). Although, the Father is very protective of the Fry during the spawning process it is common for them to attack the Fry as they become bigger and able to look after themselves.
I recommend removing the Father from the tank once the Fry are able to swim freely, usually 7-10 days after birth because he can become very aggressive towards them and potentially cause them harm.
That's the answers to the 10 most asked questions I get on a regular basis. I hope you found this information useful and are able to put it to good effect.

Discover How to Breed the Most Astonishing Betta Fish

Breeding Betta Fish is such a vast topic in itself, and you could write a whole book on the subject - Indeed some people have! However, I'm going to give you a brief overview of the breeding process by answering 2 very important questions...
1. How Do You Know When Your Betta Fish is Ready to Breed?
In my opinion the ideal time to breed your Betta Fish is when they are between 6 to 12 months of age.
You will know when a male is ready to begin breeding because he will begin making his bubble nest, this usually takes 1-2 days until completion of the nest. You can't miss the bubble nest when it starts to happen, it is as its name suggests, a nest that looks like a group of bubbles that floats in the water.
To tell when a female is ready to spawn you will notice vertical stripes appearing on her sides. Don't get vertical stripes mixed up with horizontal ones, because horizontal stripes mean they are stressed. Also, a female will start to become swollen near the white spot on her belly (ovipositor) when she is getting broody! :-)
2. How do you Breed Betta Fish?
Start, by creating a separate breeding tank. The water in the tank should be about 5 to 6 inches deep and at a temperature of (75-80F). You will also want to add some large leaves to aid in the building of the bubble nest and to help the female hide when the male gets aggressive.
You then want to gradually introduce the fish. To do this either put a divider into a tank separating the two fish. obviously, a male and a female Betta! ;-), or keep them in different tanks but so they can see each other.
Whilst introducing them you should begin feeding the Betta live food to prepare them for breeding. Such food could be live brine shrimp, freezed blood worms or black worms (also known as Tubifex worms) - I must admit this isn't my cup of tea but Betta's love this stuff! After 10-14 days of doing this you can place them in the breeding tank together...
However, make sure you supervise when you do this otherwise the male might become too aggressive towards the female. There will obviously be some aggression and nipping as they get to know each other. However, if you think it gets too serious then remove the female and try again in a couple of days.
Once, your Betta's have gotten to know each other and decide to breed the male will wrap himself around the female, often called an "embrace". The female will then release her eggs into the bubble nest or the male will collect them and put them into the bubble nest. The female can release anything from 500-750 eggs so the embrace is usually performed several times.
When the female has finished laying her eggs remove her from the tank shortly afterwards because the male Betta will become very protective of his bubble nest and aggressive, and she could become fish food (kind of like brine shrimp if you know what I mean!?).
After this process has finished the male will takeover fertilizing, cleaning and looking after the eggs by keeping them within the bubble nest. Approx. 2-3 days later the eggs will hatch and the Fry (Baby Betta's) are released.
Another 3-5 days later the Fry will begin swimming. At this stage you should remove the male Betta from the nest to avoid the Fry becoming fish food. You should feed the Fry with baby brine shrimp or daphnia three times a day. After 14 days you can begin feeding them flake or powder food but in small quantities until they are big enough.
Around 4-5 weeks later you will be able to identify the males and the females. Separate the males from each other before the fighting begins because there is always a loser!
This article should have given you a good overview of the breeding process and with this information you will be well on your way to achieving astonishing Betta Fish displaying the most magnificent colour and fin structure that will make your Friends gasp in amazement when they see your tank!

Feeding Beta Fish

Knowing the proper diet for betta fish is important. An improper betta diet can lead to a sick betta fish. There is nothing that can stress a fish lover out more then a sick betta. So why not take the extra step towards your betta's health and feed them properly.
Sure general betta pellets are ok; however betta fish can thrive on a diet of brine shrimp and blood worms. Most pet store chains have frozen foods for fish including brine shrimp and bloodworms.
Overfeeding can be a problem several ways. First betta fish don't need to eat much to survive. Eating too much can be harmful. Also don't let uneaten food fall to the bottom of the aquarium. Betta fish are not bottom feeders and will likely not eat off the gravel. Always feed them small amounts and be sure you have there attention before feeding so they will stay at the top of the aquarium waiting for the food. A good method is to drop food in front of the betta's face. Try feeding them only a few brine shrimp or bloodworms at a time and no more then 15 per meal (I know that sounds impossible but do your best. Anyone who has seen brine shrimp or bloodworms will understand).
Finally keep the water in the aquarium crystal clear. Any signs of dirty water change it as soon as possible. Would you swim in a dirty cloudy swimming pool? Then why should your fish? Dirty water often has a lot of waste. Which is caused by rotting food from over feeding or waste from the betta it's self. So please keep your betta in a nice clean aquarium. Then sit back and enjoy.

Betta Fish Breeding at Home

Breeding fish can be somewhat difficult. Especially with Betta fish, as they tend to be aggressive towards other Betta fish. There are several steps you will need to follow in order to successfully breed your Betta fish.
You will need to make sure that your fish are at least 5 months old and fully acclimated to their tanks. You must set the male in one tank and the female in another close to each other so they can get used to one another before you bring them together to mate.
The Betta fish will begin to show signs when they are ready to mate; the male will make a bubble nest at the top of his tank where he will eventually place the eggs, and the female can develop colorful stripes.
Your breeding tank should be kept at 80-82 degrees for the baby fish to best survive. You can now place the female in with the male and he will hold her upside down so that she can release her eggs.
Betta fish can release hundreds of eggs, while some have been known to release close to a thousand. Her job done, the female will then hide and the male will take over the caring of the young.
It is best to take the mother out of the tank at this point, or the male may view her as a threat to the eggs and may get aggressive towards her.
Once the fish have hatched and are swimming freely, take the male out of the tank as well or he may begin to eat his young and your hard work will have been in vain.
Give the babies about two weeks before you change their water, and be careful that you don't overfeed them or the tank could become cloudy.
After a couple weeks, you can begin changing the water and separating the fish into other bowls. Now all you will need to do is decide if you want to sell them, or keep them for your family.

Breeding Betta Fish for Profit

Breeding Betta fish can be somewhat difficult if you have never done it before, or if you do not have a lot of patience. However, if you can get past the particular things that can make Betta fish a little more difficult to breed, then you should be able to turn a pretty good profit, and have fun along the way.
These include things such as keeping the water temperature a comfortable 80-82 degrees, and making sure you remove the female and male Bettas at the right times.
You will also be the proud caretaker of up to 1000 baby fish! Not all the fry will live, but there will most likely be several hundred and you will be able to sell them within a few weeks.
You will need to decide whether you are going to provide a nice habitat to go along with the fish, or if you are going to just have them in a glass or plastic fish cup until they get home with their new owners. You may be able to get a larger profit if you add a bowl and plant fixture; that has been popular in years past.
If you have the option for a plant/bowl aquarium, some people are willing to pay extra for those features. With several hundred fish out of each breeding, you should be able to turn out a fair profit from breeding your Betta fish. Just be sure to pay close attention to the adult fish through the process and you'll have fun too!

Betta Fish Breeding for Fun

Breeding Betta fish can be difficult. You can't just put the two fish together then expect them to mate and everything to be ok.
The male Siamese fighting fish are known to be aggressive and will fight other Bettas. It is best to keep the fish separated, but in tanks next to each other so they can see one another and get used to each other before you try to breed them.
There are several things that you need to make sure you are ready and set up before you can even begin the breeding process. These include things such as keeping the water temperature a comfortable 80 degrees, and making sure you remove the female and male Bettas at the right time.
You will also be the proud caretaker of up to 1000 baby fish! Not all of the fry live, but there will likely be several hundred and you will need to think about where to put them all.
These few things may make it slightly more difficult for the average person to breed Bettas at home for fun, they are very picky fish and will need close monitoring. But those who do breed these beautiful fish soon learn the extra efforts are worth it as breeding Betta fish can be a lot of fun, and even profitable too. So, just make sure you know what you are getting into before you decide to dive into breeding Betta fish.

The Joys of Beta Fish Breeding

There are educational values as well as many joys to be found when dealing with any type of animals. Betta fish are certainly no exception. You can breed Betta fish in your own home with your children, or in a classroom as a science project.
Either way, children will be able to learn a lot about the care and breeding of the fish throughout the process, and many of the lessons learned will stay with them and can be applied to their own lives in the future.
When beginning your project, make sure that you keep the male and female Betta fish in separate tanks, or if you only have a single tank be sure to place a clear separator between them in it, so that the male does not get too aggressive towards the female early on. Once the male and female Betta fish get used to each other you can put them together to begin the mating process in your breeding tank. The optimal breeding tank conditions are five inches of water depth, which should be kept at about 80 to 82 degrees.
After a short courtship process they will mate and once the eggs are safely in the male Betta's bubble nest, take the female out of the tank. The male will take care of the eggs until they hatch and at that point you will need to also remove the male so he does not eat the baby fish.
You should now have at least several hundred fish! You can begin moving them into separate tanks after about two weeks and if you choose to sell them, you can begin sending them to new homes as well! Make sure you watch the fish closely for aggressiveness until they've been separated, and enjoy your new Betta fish!

Betta Fish Is The Perfect Pet Fish

I still remember the first time I saw two beautiful looking fish in a friend's house. One fish was blue and the other was red, and they were swimming majestically in their fishbowls. That was my first encounter with a fish species known as Betta fish or Betta Splendens or Siamese Fighting Fish (three names that refer to one fish).
Up until today, I'm still keeping a few of them in my house, and they make perfect pet fish for my family. Every member of my family loves them.
Why do I like most about Betta fish, you may ask. Definitely, I have many different reasons, but here are three of them.
1. Betta fish are beautiful pet.
It's a tropical fish that comes with different colors such as red, blue and yellow. Some Betta fish have more than one color on their bodies. Believe it or not! I can spend hours looking at how Betta fish move in their bowls but even if you don't know a thing about Betta fish, you will be mesmerized by their colors alone.
2. Betta fish are easy to care.
Betta fish are hardy type of fish and they can live in a small container. A small fishbowl is enough to house one Betta fish, but be aware that two male Betta fish shouldn't be placed in one container. Or else, these two Betta fish might fight until death (that's why they are also called Siamese fighting fish).
3. Betta fish are responsive.
If you have a Betta fish in a small fishbowl and you move closer to the fish, you'll see that your fish will turn its head to look at you. That's what makes me fall in love with Betta fish. They are responsive to your presence and aware that you are there, unlike many other pet fish.
So, you can now consider if you want to adopt Betta fish as your family pet or for your kids. They are lovable creatures and you will know it immediately one you have a Betta in your house.

Setting Up a Tropical Fish Aquarium

tropical fish aquarium is a fabulous furnishing for your home due to the tropical fishes attractive and colorful appearance. Tropical fish are beautiful pets that do not require nearly as much attention to care for as dogs and cats do.
There are a few things that you need to consider when you set up a tropical fish aquarium.
1. What fish variety or species you will keep in your tank. You can not, for instance, keep more than one Betta fish in a tank, because the two of them will fight each other. Instead you should opt for variety. This will also make your aquarium a work of art with all the flashing colors of the tropical fish residents, providing of course that you make sure that your fish are all compatible with each other.
2. When you have decided what fish to have, you can choose your aquarium. The size of your aquarium that you need should be based on the number of fish that you want to live in it, and the size of each fish species that you have chosen. If you are unsure, you local pet store should be able to advise you. Of course, you will also need to ensure that you have sufficient space in your home to comfortably accommodate your new aquarium!
3. You will also need some equipment for your aquarium: Filter, Heater, Lighting, Hood, Algae Magnet, CO2 Diffusers, Plants, Gravel, Gravel Vacuum, Nets and Fish Food
This might seem like rather a lot of equipment that you need to purchase. However, do remember that once you have bought them, you will not have to buy the equipment again for years, apart from the food of course.

Betta Fish Friends

Betta fish can also be placed with other fish. This truth is often unnoticed due to the fighting nature of the Beta. It is suggested that the other fish be smaller in size then the beta fish.
The tank friends for the betta fish may include:
Platies - The southern platy fish is a type of freshwater fish. It grows to a maximum size of 6.0 cm (2.4 in). Sexual dimorphism is small, the male's caudal fin being more pointed. Wild varieties are dull in coloration, deficient of the typical dark lateral line common to many Xiphophorus species. Breeders have developed a large number of color varieties which are ordinary aquarium fish for hobbyists. Platys are trouble-free to maintain and compatible to a community aquarium. This fish is generally sold in pet shops
Swordtails - It is native to an area of North and Central America extending from Veracruz, Mexico, to northwestern Honduras. The male green swordtail grows to an average size of 14cm (5.5in) and the female to 16 cm (6.3 in). Sexual dimorphism is reasonable, with the female being larger than the male but missing the "sword". The wild variety is olive green in color, with a red or brown side stripe and speckles on the dorsal and, occasionally, caudal fins. Confined breeding has created many color varieties, including black, red, and numerous patterns thereof, for the aquarium hobby.
Cory Cats - Cory Cats are some of the most nonviolent and interesting scavengers for a freshwater aquarium, and will flourish in a wide variety of water conditions. These catfish are very active hunters who remain comparatively small. As a result of this, they are ideal for keeping the substrate uncontaminated in a smaller freshwater community aquarium. They have a preference to be in schools of 6 or more but many people place one or two Cory cats in their smaller tanks. Neon Tetras - The neon tetra is until now one of the most excellent community fish there is on the market. Placed in a school of 6 or more, these little guys are a tremendous scene swimming around the aquarium and chasing each other back and forth. Neons are very passive and quite small, so shouldn't be placed with very large fish which might find it a delicious meal. When placed with other fish, think about the violent behavior and size of possible tank-mates. Neons cannot be placed with killer type fish or anything that is large sufficiently to eat them, including the naive looking Angelfish.
Cardinal Tetras - The Cardinal Tetra is one of the most preferred fish to have in a tank, primarily for the reason of its splendid coloration. On the other hand, maintaining these little fish have the need of a definite knowledge that many possessors do not have. These fish are tremendously hard to breed in detention, almost all of the fish available in shops have been taken from the Amazon basin, and sadly thousands of them die every year in unsuitable tanks. It is rather ordinary, for example, to see a little kid walk into a shop with a few coins and buy one or two cardinals to add to his goldfish bowl.
White cloud mountain minnow - The White Cloud Mountain minnow is an extremely resilient species of freshwater fish often placed in aquaria. This species grows to an average size of 4 cm (roughly 1.5 in), and is silver-green in color with a vivid red caudal fin. A number of varieties are known, one with vivid light edges to the dorsal and anal fins and one with red edges to those fins. Also, there is a long-finned variety. Sexual dimorphism is small, the male usually possessing more radiant coloration and having a a little slimmer body.
Zebra Danios - Among the most resilient and lively of aquarium fish, the Zebra danio is easily known by its typical horizontal stripes. Their small size, no more than two and half inches, and passive temperament, make them compatible to a community aquarium. Albino, veil tailed, and long finned ranges are obtainable, as well as a well-liked leopard variety. All varieties flourish in schools.
Cherry Barbs - The Cherry Barb is a gorgeous, nonviolent fish. It makes a brilliant community fish and is best if placed in groups of 6 or more. The females are easy to differentiate, once they grew older. They are much lighter in color, generally just with some yellow and a light orange/black straight band. The female is also very plumper than the male. All in all, the cherry barb is an outstanding community fish and makes a beautiful addition to any tank.

Betta fish: An Introduction

Betta fish scientifically belongs to animalia kingdom, chordate phylum, actinopterygii class, Perciformes order, Osphronemidae family, Betta genus and B. splendens species.
The Siamese fighting fish (Betta splendens) is one of the most well-liked types of freshwater aquarium fish, inhabitant to the Mekong basin in Southeast Asia and called pla-kad in its native Thailand. It is associated with the gourami family, but was in earlier times classified among the Anabantidae. Even though there are almost 50 other kind of bettas, B. splendens is the most admired species among aquarium hobbyists, mostly in the United States, and is normally referred to with the nick name "betta."
A betta fish grows in general to a length of just about 6 cm (~ 2.3" in). Bettas are famous for their colors and the shape of their tails. The usual coloration of betta fishes are light green and brown, and the fins of wild varieties are comparatively small. On the other hand, radiantly colored and longer-finned species have been developed all the way through selective breeding.
Breeders have developed a number of unusual tail shapes for example veil tail (non-symmetrical tail, simply 2 rays), crown tail (extremely frilled, extensive rays), half-moon (big tail fin that makes the shape of a half circle), short-finned fighting style (from time to time called plakat), double-tail (the tail fin is divided into two lobes and the dorsal fin is considerably stretched out) and delta tail (tail span is comparatively smaller than half-moon).
Betta fishes have been lovingly nicknamed "The Jewel of the Orient" because of the wide variety of colors which are formed through selective breeding.
In recent times breeders have developed in females the same variety of colors in the past only bred in males. Untamed bettas only reveal strong colors when troubled. On the other hand, breeders have been talented enough to make this coloration everlasting, in a wide range of shades. Bettas that are red or dark blue are the easiest to buy, being fairly enduring and time and again breed true. Though, bettas come in other colors, like magenta, orange, yellow (uncommon), white and emerald green. Breeders have also developed various color outlines such as marble and butterfly, in addition to metallic colors like copper, gold, and opaque.
Breeders all over the world keep on developing new strains. Though, females never grow finnage as flashy as males of the same category, and are roughly always more passive in coloration.
Betta fishes are somewhat easy to breed if provided with appropriate healthy environment. Females can be recognized by a little, white 'pearl' at the rectum, very easily noticeable from underneath the fish. They lay egg clutches of just about 100-500 eggs, on the odd occasions over 600 eggs. The male protects and feeds the eggs and baby fishes. The male betta fishes construct bubble nests of a variety of dimensions and thicknesses on the top of their tanks, at times even when not in the company of female or young. Rapid temperature alteration, barometer alterations, materials in the tank, and occurrence of other males or females all have been shown to encourage bubble nest creation. On the other hand, once the young fish are swimming liberally, the responsibility of tending them falls upon the human possessor. For that reason, it is sensible to do research and arrange for baby food, baby-ready (cycled) tanks, etc. earlier to authentic breeding.
In general betta fishes live to be 3-5 years old, but a few live to be almost 8 years old. Usually, males bought from a pet store are 9-12 months old; at this age the finnage of the betta fishes becomes fullest and most striking. Because of their smaller looking finnage, females obtainable in pet stores are most of the times only 3-6 months old. Male betta fishes existing in laboratories with big individual tanks and exercise on a daily basis have lived 10 years or much more.
Similar to anabantids and all associates of the genus Betta, betta fishes have a labyrinth limb in their heads that permits them to take oxygen straightforwardly from the environment besides the oxygen taken from water with the help of their gills.

Betta Fish Shows

Small wild Betta fish still swim in the rice paddy channels of Southeast Asia, protecting their bubble nests from all interlopers. Though lively, the Betta fish are far removed from their familial relatives, normally called Siamese fighting fish.
Wild Betta fishes will fight to protect their area but they are street fighters in comparison to the Sweet Pea Whitakers of the pet trade i.e. the familial Betta fishes. The wild Betta fishes are not so much colorful as the familial Betta fishes nor are their fins as long and as attractive as their familial counterparts. However the genes are certainly there. When a Betta fish - untamed or tame - meet another Betta fish, they both act in response impulsively. The color of their body becomes dark noticeably, as if flushed in irritation, and their straggling fins flash open and sit up, erect like a fan prepared to fight the summer heat.
For centuries in Asia the little fish were breed in internment only for their fierceness and combating aptitude. The fish were paired off by their possessor to fight, many a times to the death, to a large extent like a cock fight.
Now a days fighting is not authorized or excused by the International Betta Congress. As an alternative Betta fish breeders breed their fish to improve their beauty, taking benefit of the physical uniqueness of violent behavior.
Over the years the betta fish has been bred for more and more attractive color differences and longer more good-looking and striking flowing fins. Betta fishes are found in different colors like yellow, blue, green, red, black and turquoise. Many a times they also are bi-colored and they come with a pale sparkling look as if they had been covered with mother of pearl. At betta shows, there are 48 various color groups in which you can select anyone to fight.
Possessors take benefit of the fish's fighting nature to boast their colors and fins at their best for betta show adjudicators. The fish are publicized independently in small glass bowls and are disallowed to view the fish in neighboring bowls by pieces of card stock. When the adjudicators come around, the card stock is raised and the Bettas look each other from the glass. Their colors turn out to be vivacious and their fins get higher and spread like fighters cocking their fists. The fishes are judged by the adjudicators on clarity and limpidness of color, unusual and astonishing finnage, posture and deportment. Here deportment is not behavior. It's how nicely the fish swims and how attentive it is.
That's what a Betta show is all about - just raising those pieces of card stocks and the rest is done by the betta fishes.
Betta fishes generally costs more than $150. Even though Betta breeders would like to get back their operating cost, they know better than to think they will make a lot of money from their fish. The breeders mainly do it for the contentment of breeding the Betta fishes and not for earning more profit.
Bottled water doesn't provide the best possible environment for your Betta fish. Actually most of the bottled waters available in market don't have the essential minerals needed for the healthy environment of the fish. Also these bottled waters may contain some chemicals which could be injurious for the fish. Similarly, you should never make use of purified water or water that has been "distilled" by any procedure.
The real best water for your Betta fish is just simple tap water. You can also use spring water but you must remove the harmful chemicals present in it by following the procedure mentioned below:
1. Most of the time a very harmful chemical known as chloramines are present in water which may kill your Betta fish. To remove this harmful chemical from water you have to purchase AmQuel. AmQuel is very easily obtainable at pet stores. 2. You can also get a 'stress coat' from your nearby local pet shop. It is also one of the best products for your betta fish.
3. Now as you've treated the water as per the above directions, it requires to "age" which will permit all of the chemicals and gasses to disappear, and also for the pH in the water to standardize. To let the chemicals evaporate, just put the treated water in an open container for a week.

Breeding Betta fishes

Betta fishes are in reality very sociable fish as long as you don't place two males together. They can be very easily kept with most other fish, and what you truly have to watch out for is the fish that bothers bettas.
Betta fishes are slow moving fish with incredibly long fins, so they can't be placed with any fast moving fish that is being known for it's fin-nipping, like zebra danios. They get along in a very good manner with most breeds of tetras, and you can let your baby betta fish grow with baby neons.
When you place bettas in a community tank, the most significant thing to keep in mind is that they are fish that initially came from an area with slow moving water. So any kind of big filtration on the tank will shock a betta and make him conceal in a corner away from the current. You have to create a sense of balance in this case with the other fish in the tank that have need of the current and bubbles for the oxygen in the water for them to survive. Alternatively, once a betta fish gets accustomed to the current from a filter, you will every now and then see the betta playing in it for fun. Simply take care that there is an area with slow moving water or still water in the tank for the betta to move to when they are exhausted.
Normally you can't place a male and female betta fish in the same tank if * The two fish are not very babyish (more than a few months old generally won't work) * They are not prepared and ready to reproduce, * They have not grown up together from a very young age, and * You do not have sufficient hiding places for the female.
This is a sweeping statement - your mileage may differ on this one!
Generally, even for usual breeders, getting the silly small fish to breed can be either an effortless joy or a royal pain. They're not as good as the humans on blind dates. Many a times one couple will take to each other right away and you'll have eggs spread here and there in the tank, and sometimes they can swim around the tank for weeks and in no way look at each other. Or in certain cases one will be attracted but the other won't. So don't ever get depressed about not being able to breed the fish.
As a universal rule, for a female betta fish, give her sufficient time for her to recuperate and start looking prepared again; Sorry, that won't help out a lot, but every fish is unusual just keep an eye on your betta fish. If she had a despondent initially, it'll take her a while to recuperate. If the whole thing went well, she can be hot to trot again within a week.
Generally the second mating produce less number of eggs as compared to the first one, but it's never debilitated the female yet. If the female betta fish hasn't been fed, high-protein food regularly, then it takes normally a minimum time of 2-3 weeks after starting that food that she'll be prepared for breeding. After having been bred, if the female fish has been put on that same food again, usually within 2-3 weeks she'll be prepared again. However, it would better on your part to maintain a gap of one month in between.
Look carefully while placing the fish together. If the female is trying to attract the male aggressively and the bubblenest, and hanging her head down in the water, she's prepared. If all she does is swim away worriedly trying to run away, she's not.
Males also have to be conditioned as they use up a lot of exertion in tending the fry, but they're time and again more prepared than females. Though, keep an eye on the fish. From time to time the male is just so eager to be with a female that he's more involved in either fighting or showing off to truly doing anything about it. Or he's been around females so much that being lonely with one just isn't a delight anymore. Make use of your decision.
Normally after a fish is beaten up, it's fine to give them sufficient time to recuperate from whatever wounds they received, but torn fins aren't generally a trouble.

How to Choose a Betta Fish

Betta fish, also famous by the name of Siamese fighting fish are a great first pet for children's, in addition to people who don't have sufficient time or money for bigger pets. Bettas are reasonably priced, resilient, and easy to care for. Betta fish are a great substitute to goldfish as they require less space. They are contented in a fishbowl or aquarium and have the need of less maintenance as they produce a lesser amount of waste and don't infect the water as much. There are very few materials needed for acquiring a new betta fish: an aquarium or bowl, water conditioner, a net, and a few gravels. The fish will also be more contented with a small number of accessories, such as a plant and a place to hide.
Betta fish are a fun fresh pet as they come in a range of unusual colors and types. While selecting a betta fish, look for one that shows energy and has its fins unharmed. A healthy betta fish will show awareness during feeding times, and they should be fed on a habitual schedule so that they become used to expecting food. Betta fish can be fed on a mixture of foods, from dried arranged foods to frozen brine shrimp. Some betta fish have even got trained to rise out of their water during feeding times. They should only be given to eat once a day, and be alert not to overfeed. Fish will keep on acting hungry until they overeat, which can kill them, and extra food can also pollute the water.
Betta fish are disreputably resilient, and many have lived through ordeals that would kill most fish. This is not a justification to keep the fish in a tremendous environment, as they are displayed in most pet stores. Some of the containers sold specially for betta fishes are better than others. While it may be enjoyable to place two betta fish in a small container divided by a divider as the fish will regularly want to fight, the fish will in fact be happier in its own spacious container. With sufficient space, betta fish will swim around energetically, flaring their gills and showing off their fin display in order to be a focus for mates.
While betta fish are time and again placed in very small containers in a pet store, they will be happier with more room to roam. On the other hand, they might feel frightened by very large aquariums. Betta fish do not take pleasure in company and will not bear other fish trespassing within their territory. While most tropical fish can only have the need of a filter and heater, betta fish can get familiarized to incredibly small environments and do not require any more than a small bowl to live in.
The majority of the betta fish sold at a pet store are the more radiantly colored males. An unhealthy fish will not swim around a lot and will not show awareness in food. The state of its fins may also get worse. Do not purchase a fish that appears to be less healthy, even if all of the fish in the store that day appear lethargic and unwell. Consult a pet store expert if your fish starts showing these symptoms--many fish ailments can be easily cured. Symptoms of a healthy betta fish are the similar signals that a male will give off when he is prepared to mate. A healthy male will make bubble nests and move rocks to make certain that his territory is the ideal place to attract mates. After mating, the seemingly violent male will for a time quietly clean the eggs and place them in his bubble nest, while the female has no part in caring raising young. On the other hand, the young baby fishes must be removed soon after hatching before the male becomes territorial and tries to eat them.
Even though it is a betta's normal propensity to fight, they should never be put together for amusement, and two male betta fishes should never be permissible to live together in an aquarium. Unlike in the wild, there is no space for the losing fish to go and high, and so, generally putting two bettas in a tank will end result in the death of one or both fish. Even mating the fish is a very dangerous endeavor, and hobbyists watch their valued specimens very watchfully during the entire process. Betta fish are some of the most satisfying pets to maintain for very little work.

Symptoms of Betta Fish Diseases

When you have possession of a Betta fish, there is nothing worse than understanding that your little companion has contracted a Betta Fish disease. There are various unusual types of diseases a Betta Fish can get, and you are the only one that your Betta fish can depend on to help them get healthier when they are sick.
When you have a sick Betta fish, the basic thing you will have to recognize are the warning signs of the Betta fish disease. A few symptoms comprises of compressed fins, and a lack of desire for food. Clamped fins can be recognized by your ill Beta fish not flaring and holding his fins as close to his or her body as achievable. Clamped fins are mainly a technique by which Betta fish give you an idea that they are sad and ill.
If your ailing Betta fish is rubbing up against plants and other substances in the tank, it is somewhat possible that he or she has contracted a parasite. Parasites can be no matter which from Ich, or white spot ailment, to worms that hang off of your Betta fish's body. Parasites can be taken care of with medication such as Jungles Parasite Guard, Nox Ich, or Malachite Green. Be assured that you know accurately what parasite is disturbing your fish before you dose the tank with the chemicals.
One more symptom of Betta fish sickness is white or peculiar colored poop. This is the symptom of an internal bacteria or parasite. Regrettably, in most of the cases, if your fish has an inner trouble, it can be incurable. There are medications within definite kind of foods considered to battle these types of troubles, and if caught early sufficiently, it can be resolved.
A third symptom of disease is white, cotton like stuff budding on your ailing Betta fish. This symptom of Betta fish disease is for fungal contamination. Fungus, as well as fin rot, tends to be cured with the similar type of medications. Fin rot and mouth rot can be observed by black, red or white edges to the fins of your Betta fish, and a perceptible shrinking of fin size. Fin rot, if not cured, can turn into complex fin rot, and take the life of your Betta fish.
If you want Betta fish assistance, there are several special forums online that you can make use of. If you are having an urgent situation, though, it is best that you get in touch with your neighboring fish store, where they can assist you recognize and start treating your fish with the correct medicines.
It is to be expected that our betta fish will fall ill either due to water quality or handling. Proper awareness of the temperament of the warning signs and essential treatment process is significant if one were to get pleasure from this hobby. We can take dogs or cats to vets if our pets fall ill. For fish we simply have to be our personal vets ... I have never heard of Fish Vets, have you?
The best disease avoidance is a cautious preservation plan. Keep the water hygienic, supply sufficient and suitable diet. Routine inspection is the best preventative measure. Losses of color and or desire for food, sluggishness, tiredness, or unusual behavior are among the first symptoms. Additional signs comprises of swelling, fin rotting and fungus that are noticeable.
Fin rot is generally due to bad water condition resulting from gathering of uneaten foodstuff or other waste material. Aquarium salt will generally help out.
Swim bladder problem is very ordinary to betta fishes. This makes them having complexity rising to the surface for air. After a great effort to reach the top and air is breathed in, the fish falls back to the base, unable to sustain its optimism. Swim bladder can be due to too much feeding or wounds at some point in fights or shipping.
Betta fishes are extraordinarily prone to velvet. Warning signs comprises of tiny yellow specs covering the body, fins, or gills.

Taking Care of Your Betta fish

Betta fishes live for approximately 2 to 5 years. The Fishes that are sold in pet stores are generally adults, so they have the fine lengthy fins, but that also shows that they are by now a year old. That shows that if your betta fish lives for more than 2-3 years after you purchase it, it's a fine, long-lived fish.
The foods for bettas have a tendency to be more of a meat diet as compared to other fishes. A number of fishes are very particular about what they will or won't consume. It's totally special with every fish, although, and depends a great deal on what they were initially lived with. Most bettas will involuntarily be stuck on and consume all types of live food, brine shrimp, tubiflex worms, black worms, mosquito larvae, daphina, etc. But the majority of the people don't like or aren't capable of keeping the live food around always, so dry foods are developed for the fish. You can get pellets and special flakes for bettas from your nearby pet shop. However be aware that if your fish hasn't eaten them earlier it might take some time for him to develop a taste to them or even to begin eating them. One more kind of dried food is the freeze-dried foods like bloodworms, brine shrimp, worms, etc. You can also train your betta fish to eat normal flake food that you feed the rest of your aquarium fishes and exchange that with the live foods.
A betta fish's home must be like their natural habitat to make your fish a happy fish and live. The rice paddy region is exceptionally hot and humid, with ordinary waters in the 80-85 deg F range, and very moist air. In the U.S., the atmosphere doesn't usually come close to matching that atmosphere, and the fish have been bred for years and years to cope up with various weather conditions, so that they can also stay alive in room temperature water, but they will be much more contented and healthier in warmer water.
A most suitable temperature for a betta fish is 78-80 degrees Fahrenheit. Not much hotter than that, as the outside temperature doesn't match. And they are also fine generally down to 72 degrees. But if the room temperature gets much lower than that, the betta fish will most likely not be able to eat, will get ill or have many other troubles.
If the outside temperature is hotter than 80 degrees, don't be troubled about trying to keep the betta cool. They will be contented in the higher temperatures, but you must keep an eye as hotter temperatures will also make the water stinking faster and sicknesses that had been hole up might unexpectedly have an effect on the fish.
Betta fishes are fish that initially came from very hot regions of Asia. They get raised in still water where rice and other plants grew. To become accustomed to this inactive water with low-oxygen content, they developed a particular organ called a "labyrinth organ" that performs action something like a mammal's lung. In this case the fish goes to the upper surface of the water, takes in a lungful of air, and then the organ lets them to process the oxygen from the air, instead of an ordinary fish that obtains the oxygen from the water through its gills. And only because of this unusual capability of bettas, they can be placed in small jars and enclosures and can live in it. They don't have the need of the movement of the water and the quantity of water like other fish.
Though, that doesn't signify that they're happy fish when placed in the small jars. They are usually very happy fish in bigger containers, and a small bowl or jar must only be a provisional tank for a betta fish.
Mainly one gallon of water is an excellent size to place a Betta fish with water changes in two weeks. If you don't keep your fish in that much water then you might face two types of problems i.e. the water will become polluted very and the fish can't swim in it. If you don't possess an aquarium, you can use a plastic or glass 1 gal goldfish bowl as the initial container for a betta fish.
While changing the water, it is a great idea to acquire some water conditioner to get rid of the chlorine and some "stress coat" formula to help out to keep the fish healthy. Be alert to match both the temperatures, as in that way the betta fish doesn't get disturbed.

Treatment of Betta Fish Diseases

The main reason of the diseases of Betta fish is internal pressure. The pressure can be a result of several different things. The most widespread disease is infection.
Betta Fish Care and Treatment: "Maracyn 2" by Mardel is suggested. Maracyn-2 is a all-purpose antibiotic tablet which is utilized for popeye, fin and tail rot, gill ailment, dropsy, septicemia, secondary and inner infections. It is essential that the treatment be absorbed within the Betta fish to cure the infection. Regular water changes twice a week, in addition to higher temperatures may also aid the Betta fight off the infection himself.
Fungal infection Fungal infections generally happen because of bad water conditions. They become visible as white fluffy growths on the Betta fish's mouth, eyes, and fins and are highly infectious.
Betta Fish Care and Treatment: Increase the temperature of the Betta fish tank. Fungal infections are time and again an outcome of cooler water temperatures. Medicines including Malachite green or Methylene blue are also useful. Malachite green is a totally harmless and helpful cure in fresh and salt water on a wide variety of protozoan, crustacean, and other invertebrate parasites of fishes. Adding ordinary table salt (sodium chloride) to the water, one teaspoon per gallon can lend a hand in minimizing the healing time.
Ichthyophthirius multifilius (Ich) Ich is a protozoan parasite found on the majority of the freshwater fish. It emerges as small white dots or stains on the Betta fish's fins and body, which may seem to be like white grains of sugar. Eruptions mostly happen when the water temperature drops less than 80 degrees F.
Betta Fish Care and Treatment: Raise the water temperature to the mid to higher 80s degree F. Salt baths are very helpful against Ich. Adding common table salt (sodium chloride) to the water can lend a hand in reducing disease. Add one teaspoon per gallon as a pre-emptive measure. Medicines containing Malachite green or Methylene blue, continued at a time gap of 2 days are also helpful.
Velvet/Oodinium It is an algae parasite found on several freshwater fish. This ailment emerges as a yellow "velvety" covering on the Betta fish's body. It may also become visible as golden or rust colored. It is habitually found in fish which are anxious due to chilling, shipping, water changes or bad water quality. Symptoms comprises of fast breathing and lethargy.
Betta Fish Care and Treatment: Raised temperature and medicines like acriflavine, Methylene Blue or Jungle's "velvet guard" should help cure this parasite. Bowls or tanks should be drained and unsoiled. Dyes must not be used as they have mercury.
Fin Rot Fin Rot is a bacterial disease and often happens to weaker Betta fishes.
Betta Fish Care and Treatment: Application of antibiotics, anti-microbials, and measures containing these is the perfect cure of this disease. One such anthology is Mardel Maracyn 2. Maracyn-2 is an all-purpose antibiotic tablet used for popeye, fin and tail rot, gill ailment, dropsy, septicemia, secondary and inner infections. Changing the water, increasing the temperature and adding a small amount of salt will often attain excellent results.
Dropsy It is caused by an inner, bacterial contagion. It mostly shows itself as stuffed sides and overhanging scales on the Betta fish. Again, the most possible reason is bad water conditions.
Betta Fish Care and Treatment: The application of Mardel's Tetracycline is suggested. Tetracycline is an all purpose antibiotic for ailing fin and tail rot, popeye, gill ailment and dropsy. It is mainly useful against gram-negative pathogenic organisms.
Black Spot It demonstrates small, black scraps on the body of the Betta fish. It is time and again found in fish that are harassed due to shipping.
Betta Fish Care and Treatment: Adding common table salt (sodium chloride) to the water can lend a hand in minimizing the healing time. Adding one teaspoon per gallon is suggested.
Common Beta Fish Treatments
* Copper Sulfate is helpful as an antiseptic for equipment, tanks and bowls. * Formalin is helpful against Ich and parasites. * Malachite Green is generally used to cure protozoan infections.
Betta fish are flexible but do not bear thermal swings splendidly. Bettas are tropical fish and must be placed in tropical temperatures. Betta fish need habitual, twice-weekly water changes in gallon water containers, a combination of foods (not just dry pellets), and your communication to remain healthy.
Most of the ailments or illnesses with tropical freshwater fish can be credited to their surrounding atmosphere.
Nearly always a rapid water change, the adding up of a bit of salt (unionized sea salt is the most excellent, about a level teaspoon per five gallons equivalent) will resolve anything which is ailing them.