Breeding Betta Fish - An Essential Guide

When you decide to breed your Betta Fish, the first step is to make sure you are ready. It will take time, money, space for around fifty jars to separate males, a secure pond with no other fish and a good level of experience caring for Bettas already.
Presuming the answer is yes; the next step is to obtain a female. This can be difficult, as few stores sell them. Once you have both, don't leave them in the same tank. Start with cheap Bettas, to avoid wasting lots of money. Later on, after you become an expert, you can try to breed your own masterpieces. Look for fish with some energy to increase the chances of spawning. The chosen fish should be between seven and eighteen months old, and a spare pair just in case is also a wise precaution.
Prepare the mating tank, ten gallons is about right. Don't add much decorations or gravel, but some large leafed plants will help the female hide from the male. The temperature should be around eighty degrees and the depth about six inches until the fry, or baby fish, begin swimming. Normally, you wouldn't worry about air filtration with Bettas, but the fry will require it. However, they cannot handle a powerful filter. The old-fashioned box type, powered by an air pump is best, and the carbon filter that came with the pump is not acceptable. Instead, use floss or sponges. This is to avoid bad reactions between the carbon and an anti-fungal treatment. It is wise to let the pump operate through a complete cycle before fish are exposed to it to allow bacteria to grow.
Begin feeding the fish high quality food. One breeder recommends the following sequence: BettaMin, Freeze Dried Blood Worms, some live or frozen brine shrimp, then a few live Black Worms. Others swear by tubifex worms and other combinations. Do not overfeed, as this will still force you to clean the tank and replace the water more often. Change twenty percent of the water in each tank each day to help prevent this and encourage the fish to get ready to breed. The male should be in the breeding tank, and should be able to see the female in her tank. He should begin to build a bubble nest.
With the high quality food, the female should begin to plump up as eggs are produced. With lighter colored breeds you can sometimes see the eggs, and the fish should produce horizontal stripes when ready. If that isn't showing, look near the anal fin for a white gravid tube. If this is showing, she is ready.
Now comes the key moment. Plan for at least an hour when you can be present to supervise. Put the female in the water with the male. There can be some rough treatment, including some mutual fin nipping or even worse behavior. If it gets too rough, remove the female and plan to wait a few days to let her recover, but if you don't give them a chance, there won't ever be any fry. If all goes well, they will conduct what is called an embrace, and she will produce eggs under the bubble nest. He will fertilize them and begin to care for the eggs. The female should be removed now, lest she become fish food.
For the next two days, the male will keep the eggs cleaned and in the bubble nest, recovering any that fall. Then come the fry. For about thirty-six hours, they'll be unable to move out of the tank. Around two days after hatching, the first fry will begin to swim without help. At this point, remove the male fish lest the fry become fish food. A day after the fry hatch, they need their first feeding, and baby brine shrimp, daphnia, microworms, or liquid fry food for egg layers are good choices. They'll need feeding up to five times a day.
Now comes the hard part. Many experienced breeders say this can only be done in a suitable pond. The temperature must be above at least 68 and preferably 70 degrees. There must be no fish to eat the fry, and a variety of tiny aquatic creatures to eat.
After about ten days, they can take a little powdered food. This is a small amount of very finely crushed flake food. They should be about a quarter of an inch long. At about four weeks, they should be around a half inch long, and should begin to show sexual dimorphism, so you can tell the males from the females. Separate the males from each other before fighting begins.

Beware of These Common Betta Fish Illnesses

Betta fish make fun and beautiful pets, but more than likely your betta fish is going to get sick at some point in time. It is important that you are prepared to treat your betta when he is sick and this includes being aware of various diseases that affect betta fish, their symptoms, and how you can treat them. Once you know the basics of betta fish diseases you will be better prepared to recognize and treat your betta to prevent the disease becoming too serious or even fatal. The following are five of the most common diseases that affect betta fish.
Tail or Fin Rot
Tail rot and fin rot are common betta diseases that are caused by water that becomes too dirty. You can actually prevent this disease from ever affecting your fish if you are careful to always keep their water clean. As a general rule this is an easy condition to treat and it does not seem to be contagious either. If you treat your fish as soon as possible you will be able to stop the progression of the disease and their tails and fins will grow back.
Some of the symptoms to look for include the betta's tail and fins getting shorter and shorter. Their fins may also start to have a darker color and they may appear as if they are dissolving or actually falling apart. While some betta's may not even act sick, others may stop eating, get clumped fins, and start looking pale.
Thankfully treating tail and fin rot is fairly easy and will provide results in a few weeks. For treatment you will need to do a full jar water change and use Fungus Eliminator, as well as either tetracycline or Triple Sulfa. After the initial change you will need to be sure to change the water every three days and when you do you should add more medication to the water as well. It is important that you continue the treatment until you fish improves and you seen new fin and tail growth occurring. This may take a few weeks, so continue the treatment until your fish improve.
Ick
Another very common disease in betta fish is ick. Ick is actually a type of parasite and many times it is present in frozen food that is live. Although ick is one of the most contagious betta diseases, it can be treated. You can prevent your fish from getting ick by adding Aquarisol and salt to your fish's water.
If you start to see white dots appearing on your betta's body, including the head and even his eyes, this is a sign that your fish has ick. More than likely your beta will also become much less active than before and may appear sick and have clumped fins as well. They may feel itchy, so you may see them darting and rubbing against rocks in their tanks.
Since ick is such a contagious disease it is best to go ahead and treat the entire tank of fish for disease. Ick is very sensitive to temperature, so you should raise the temperature in your tank to about 85 degrees F. For every gallon in your tank, add one drop of Aquarisol every single day until your fish are better. Usually it will only take a few days to get rid of this disease.
Dropsy
Dropsy is actually the most common disease among bettas and it is also the most likely to be fatal to your fish as well. While not a great deal is known about this disease many feel that it is linked to live foods, and it especially seems linked to feeding them the black worms. Many people have found that they can prevent dropsy all together by not allowing their fish to eat black worms.
The symptoms of dropsy are quite easy to recognize and they include a bloated belly and scales that appear as if they are raised. The raised scales may actually appear very similar to a pine cone.
Unfortunately there is not a known cure for this betta fish disease. It is, however, very important that you isolate the betta that appears to have dropsy as soon as possible so the other fish will not contract the disease.
Swim Bladder Disorder
Another very common disease that betta's may get is swim bladder disorder. This actually comes as a result from feeding them too much. This disease is not contagious, and as a general rule it affects the younger bettas if they have eaten to much or have become very stressed.
If you see a betta that is having a hard time swimming, seems off balance, or prefers to just lay near the bottom, there is a good chance they are suffering from swim bladder disorder. Many times you will see them just sliding along on the bottom of the tank as well.
Many times you will find that your betta will recover by himself, but it is probably a good idea to not feed them as much for a few days. It is also helpful to eliminate brine shrimp from their diet as well, as this can actually cause part of the problem. In the future, try to be sure that you feed your fish a balanced diet to prevent this from happening again.
These are just a few of the common betta fish diseases that you my deal with in your bettas. Other diseases that bettas may have to deal with include external parasites, bacterial infection, fungal infection, depression, and velvet. Having medications on hand such as tetracyclin, Ampicillin, jungle fungus eliminator, and maracin 1 and 2. Just taking some simple preventive measures can help keep your fish from developing many of these diseases, but it important to know what to do if these diseases occur in your fish.

Choosing Plants for Your Betta Fish Tank

Betta fish use plants as a defensive strategy in their natural environments. This allows them to avoid contact with predators and other male Bettas Nervous or threatened-feeling Bettas will squeeze through close together plants to escape danger. Because of this, it is important to include some kind of plant in your Betta's tank, to reduce stress and allow it to feel that it can hide. While some people prefer artificial plants in their aquariums, live plants help to take care of harmful chemical byproducts in the tank, such as ammonia, nitrite and nitrates. They also perform the important function of gas exchange, keeping the water more oxygenated than an environment without plants or with artificial plants. Soft and leafy plants are preferred, to prevent damage to the Betta's scales should it squeeze between leaves or branches.
Plants do require light, however. An aquarium with live plants should have either access to sunlight or a light built into the hood. Some plants which are recommended for use with Betta fish are the floating Water Sprite, Hornwort, and Elodea. Tiger Lotus is considered good for use in tanks with breeding Bettas since it puts out a lily-pad-like leaf that sits on the surface of the water. Male Bettas use this leaf to shelter their bubble nests. Be sure to keep an eye on your Betta tank's plants, since dead and rotting vegetation can be bad for the water quality. Java Moss and Java Ferns can thrive in uncycled bowls without any filtration. They also require low to medium light, and are thus suitable for aquariums or enclosures that cannot be put close to a window.
Live plants for your Betta tank can be found locally from some aquarium stores or ordered from the Internet. All plants should be bright green and very healthy looking. They should also be quarantined before placing them in with the fish, to make sure that they do not carry diseases or parasites that could harm your Betta Be sure to acquire plants from a reputable source. It is wise to do some research into your supplier before purchasing live plants for your Betta tank. Bettas tend to interact more with live plants than with artificial plants. Many types of artificial plants are also rough and could damage fins and scales. Unlike fake plants, real ones will also sway attractively in the water as the fish swims through them. When the time comes to clean the tank, some plants can be gently removed and rinsed if this is desired. This is particularly easy when using free floating plants like the Java fern.

Anatomy of the Japanese Fighting Fish

The fish most commonly known as Bettas are a species of the genus Betta called Betta splendens. Like other Bettas, these fish can survive in very small bodies of fresh water, thanks to a special organ called the labyrinth. Because of this organ, which allows them to breathe atmospheric air, they are able to thrive in low oxygen water, including puddles, ditches, slow streams and rice paddies. Bettas are about two to two and a half inches long and live, on average, for about four years. Some specimens have lived up to a decade in laboratory settings.
Historically, Bettas have been used in some Asian countries for a sport rather like cockfighting. Because of this, they are also known as Siamese fighting fish. The specimens used for this sport were bred to be short-finned and very aggressive. Modern Bettas are more likely to be showy, decorative animals. Originally, only the males of the species showed the bright colors that are synonymous with Bettas, but recent strains have produced bright, showy females as well.
Female Bettas are the same general size and conformation as males, but have shorter fins. In males, the pelvic fins in particular are very long and extended. Specialized types of male Bettas with particularly unusual tails have been bred, including the crowntail, double tail, and halfmoon tail Bettas. As male Bettas age, the tail becomes larger, longer, and heavier. Eventually, this causes the fish to become sluggish, and it will eventually lose the tail. It will grow back, but not look exactly the same, and the loss of the tail rejuvenates the fish.
Betta fish are carnivores. Their mouths are full of rows of tiny pointed teeth. Despite the sharpness of these teeth, the males routinely carry eggs in their mouths without causing any damage. In captivity, they eat homogenized Betta pellets or bloodworms and brine shrimp. Many aquarium-bred fish will also accept flaked tropical fish food.
Male Bettas raise their babies. They build bubble nests for this purpose, and will even do so if there are not females or babies around. They do this by manipulating bubbles of air with their mouths into nests of various sizes and thicknesses at the top of the water. Many Bettas prefer some sort of shelter, such as vegetation, for their bubble nests.
The lower half of the Betta's anatomy is mostly swim bladder, flesh and bone. The internal organs are located between the head and the beginning of the anal fin. This fin is the large fin on the lower half of the fish's body, in front of the tail. The other fins are called the dorsal, pectoral, and pelvic fins. Bettas also have gill covers, which they may flap open in response to a perceived threat. Male Betta fish are famous for their displays when confronted with other males. They open their brightly colored fins and flap the gill covers in an attempt to look larger than they actually are.

Breeding Betta Fish - The Challenge!

The betta fish is among the most popular freshwater aquarium fish. Bettas are known as the "jewel of the orient" because of their brilliant colors. The males particularly sport long, flowing, beautiful fins. As a result, bettas in pet stores are usually males. People like the beautiful colors and usually purchase one at a time as "pets".
These fish are very aggressive. Males readily fight other males. Females may also fight.
Breeding betta fish is often a challenge taken up by betta fans.
1. Separate care of males and females.
It's necessary to distinguish between adult males and females, but it isn't always easy to do. It's important, since two males in close quarters will engage in fish-to-fish combat to the death. They don't get along very well with most other fish either! Very foul in disposition, aren't they?
Each male should be kept in his own bowl or tank. Two males in the same tank will usually fight until one is dead. Even a male and female should be together only briefly at spawning. Otherwise the male will often treat the female roughly and do permanent damage.
Several females can sometimes be kept in the same tank, provided there is plenty of room. However, there should be more than two females, otherwise one will dominate and continually chase the other female. Some aquatic plants in the tank make it easier for the fish to maintain some separation.
2. Water conditions.
The betta's native habitat is the vast, shallow freshwater paddies of Southeast Asia. The fish must have access to the surface of the water, since it takes oxygen directly from the atmosphere as well as through their gills. Since they can get oxygen from the surface, they can survive in smaller spaces and poorer condition than other aquarium fish. The little cups that the fish are purchased in at a pet store certainly aren't adequate. They actually do best in clean, filtered water.
Male fish are often kept in bowls of about one and one-half gallons without supplemental heat or oxygen. If kept like this, the water should be changed when it becomes cloudy, every one to two weeks. Or you can change about 20 percent of the water every day or two. Then every few weeks completely clean the tank including all the gravel.
The general recommendation is to allow about three gallons of water per fish. With a ten gallon tank three or four females would have plenty of room. It's recommended to have a minimum tank size of six gallons so a heater can be used. With smaller tanks a heater can cause more temperature variation than the fish can tolerate. The right water temperature is 75 - 84 degrees F. At those temperatures the fish will be quite active.
The fish can also do well at 65 - 75 degrees F, though they will not be as active at the lower temperature. Since they aren't as active at the cooler temperature, the bowls will stay cleaner.
3. Feeding your breeding betta fish.
Bettas are carnivorous, but can usually do well on food labeled for betta fish. The addition of live or frozen blood worms (mosquito larvae) and live or frozen shrimp brine is recommended. Most aquarium bred fish will also accept dried flaked aquarium tropical fish food.
Some breeders recommend black worms as supplemental feed especially for spawning females. Black worms are Lumbriculus variegatus. The worms can be kept in cool, clean, unchlorinated water. Some breeds of fish do not like these worms, but bettas prefer them.
4. Mating betta fish.
Males bettas build a nest of air bubbles for the baby fish or fry.
For spawning, a female is introduced into the male tank. If conditions are right for mating, the male fish will squeeze the female. Eggs will be expelled, then fertilized by the male. The eggs will float into the bubble nest. The female should then be removed to her tank to prevent her injury by the male fish. Even if spawning does not take place, the female should be removed.
The male fish will care for the eggs until the young emerge in a few days.
5. The fry.
The released little fish or fry are very tiny and vulnerable. Most often they are raised in special ponds where they feed on tiny microscopic living creatures. Some have success raising the fry in bowls or aquariums. But the conditions must be right, similar to the usual pond environment.

Sick Betta Fish - Betta Fish Constipation

Constipation
These notes are for educational purposes only. Attempts have been made to verify the accuracy of this document, but you should consult your normal qualified expert such as a Vet. If you decide to act on this information without consulting such an expert, you do so at your own volition as I cannot be held responsible for action you take. This said I have made it my business to check and re-check everything that has been inserted here.
Constipation is not what is commonly known as a disease, but it is pointed out here as betta fish commonly suffer from it. The symptoms to look out for are:
Lethargy/sluggishness
Swollen stomach
Lousy appetite
Over-feeding with foods such as flake foods, freeze dried bloodworms or brine shrimp can be the cause of your betta fish having constipation. While this food is okay, you should feed your bettas live food now and again, giving them a variety in the diet. In the wild the bettas eat insects and such, they wait until they see a hapless insect drop onto the surface of the shallow water they live in and quickly come to the surface to catch them. Therefore in order to maintain a healthy betta fish, you should not only feed them with the frozen or dried foods.
To remedy the constipation, instead of their normal food, for 24 - 48 hours feed them with small pieces of cooked skinless pea (get it from the pet store). Sometimes the betta will refuse to eat the pea, if that happens you will have to starve him for the allotted time as the fish needs to have his system cleaned out. If the pea feeding is successful you will plainly see the deposits on the floor of the aquarium and the swelling in your bettas' stomach will be reduced.
The pea acts as roughage and slowly does its job of cleaning out the bettas' system. Failing this treatment, all you will be able to do is wait and let nature take over.

Top 10 Frequently Asked Questions on Betta Fish Explained!

Betta Fish, arguably the most popular type of fish found in the home today across all the world. This astonishing fish displays a vibrant personality whilst posing the most magnificent colour and fin structure helping to create a truly jaw dropping aquarium that you can show off to your guests!
Originating from the paddy fields of Vietnam, Betta are an astounding fish and I will be answering in this article the 10 most popular questions I get asked on a regular basis about Betta Fish. So lets get started...
1. How do you stop Betta Fish from Fighting?
This is probably one of the most popular questions I get asked!
In my experience I've found a few ways that work...
One way is simply to get a bigger tank. With the bigger tank you can include a couple of new plants, bear in mind you don't want to over do it with the plants otherwise you will ruin your fish display (not very appealing to your guests!). By making the tank bigger and introducing a few more plants it creates extra hiding places for your Betta when the aggressive one is on the war path!
A second way is to simply separate the aggressive fish from the rest. This can be done by putting a divider into your tank, or by taking the aggressive fish out and putting it into a new tank. I would personally recommend putting a divider into your tank, size permitting of course, as your Betta will know the other Betta Fish are there. It also helps when it comes to the breeding process because introductions would have already been made.
Thirdly, you must NEVER, I repeat NEVER put a male Betta in with another male Betta Fish, period! Otherwise, they will fight to the death (this is why they are also known as Siamese Fighting Fish!). So by not keeping males together this will reduce fighting astronomically.
Female Betta's have been known to be aggressive and fight between each other, particularly if you have 2 together. However, this is just an "I'm the leader" thing going on between them and usually wears off , but a technique I've used and seen have great success to stop this happening is to add a 3rd female into the tank. By doing this any tension between the previous two is removed - try it, you'll be surprised how effective it is!
2. Can You Keep Male and Female Betta Fish Together?
Yes you can. However, I would recommend keeping a close eye on the male Betta just in case he becomes too aggressive and the female needs to be removed. As I mentioned above having plants in the tank can help the female hide if the male becomes aggressive.
3. How Do You Tell the Difference Between a Male and Female Betta Fish?
I always remember the saying "It's easy when you know how..." when I get asked this question because when I first started breeding Betta Fish it took me ages to recognise the difference between a male and a female...
You will tend to find that female Betta's have fat bellies where as males tend to have a more streamlined structure. Also, you will find that males have a longer body and fins whereas the females are shorter in body size and fin length.
Also, male Betta Fish tend to have more colour and longer pointed anal fins compared to their female counterparts (sorry ladies!). You will also find female anal fins are more level to their body. The anal fin is the rigid looking fin coming from the bottom of the Betta Fish.
However, one giveaway of a female is her white spot on the underside of her belly. This white spot is called the ovipositor and is used during the breeding process.
4. What are the Best Caring Tips for Betta Fish?
Lots of people have written books on the subject of caring for Betta Fish but I'm going to give you my best tips that I've picked up along the way...
- Test your water's acidity level regularly. A PH level of 7 works best in my experience.
- Always try and keep the water temperature at around 75-80 Fahrenheit. I would recommend testing this regularly using a floating thermometer because big drops in water temperature can cause stress on your fish. Floating thermometers in my experience give the best accuracy reading because they are kept in the tank water.
- Always keep a lid/cover over the top of your tank with air holes in it because Betta Fish can jump and you might not be there to catch them!
- Any filtration system should be kept at a low level and you must take care not to put the air intake in such a position that it could cause your Betta to get hurt. Having your filter system at a high setting has been known to cause stress to your Betta.
- Try and clean your tank regularly, ideally twice a week. Remove bits of food caught under the stones, castles or leaves of your tank.
- As a rule of thumb I recommend 3 quarters of a gallon per Betta fish in your tank. Also, try and get a spacious tank to allow your Betta plenty of room to show off their personality, you'll be surprised some are very exciting to watch!
I've always found if you love your Betta like you love your own then you won't go far wrong, and with implementing the above you will be well on your way to having truly astonishing Betta Fish.
5. What should I feed my Betta Fish?
Surprisingly, Betta Fish are known to be fussy eaters (and you thought us humans were bad!). So it is best to feed them on a variety of foods, such as:
- Brine shrimp - Daphnia - Frozen Bloodworms - Blackworms (Tubifex) worms - Combination Betta Pellets from Pet Shops - Powder Fish Food if feeding Fry - Vegetables (such as green beans, not a whole one but in tiny portions)
I tend to find a regular feeding pattern of 2-3 times a day works best for Betta. Try as well to make portions eaten in one sitting otherwise any leftover food could lead to additional bacteria in the tank potentially causing disease for your Betta Fish.
6. What are Betta Fish also Known as?
Not a lot of people know this but Betta Fish are also known as Siamese Fighting Fish. The name originates because of the males aggressiveness and their "Fight to the Death" attitude if two males are put in the same tank together.
Betta fish are often referred to as Betta Splendens but this is a type of breed of Betta, which leads us nicely onto the next question...
7. What are the Different Types of Betta Fish Available?
There are many types of Betta Fish available, the most popular types I've listed below:
- Betta Splendens (the most common type) - Betta Bellica - Betta Coccina - Betta Picta
Some of the most popular Tail Types of Betta are:
- Veil Tail (this generally the most common tail type that you find at the pet stores)
- Delta Fish (normally any fish under the 180 degree tail span is considered a Delta)
- Super Delta Fish (normally any Betta with a tail span of 120-180 degrees)
- Fan Tail (the Betta's tail displays a smoothly rounded edge)
- Half Moon (as it's name suggest it's tail is the shape of a half moon - a 180 degrees span, this is the fish most breeders strive to achieve and display a truly fabulous colour!)
- Pin (Spade) Tail (the Betta's tail is pointed at the end)
Depending on what you are looking for this should hopefully give you enough information to choose a Betta fish at the pet store! ;-)
8. Can I Put Bamboo in With My Betta Fish?
Bamboo or Lucky Bamboo as it is also known, the type that is sold from pet stores, can be put into your tank with your Betta Fish. The bamboo can make your tank look more attractive and appealing to your guests, which is always a bonus!
However, what I recommend is that the bamboo is washed thoroughly before entry into the tank to help ensure there are no chemicals on it that could hurt your Betta. Also, it is a good idea to check the bamboo regularly just to see if it is rotting because it could release bacteria into your tank's water that could potentially harm your Betta fish. Changing your tank's water often will reduce the threat of bacteria happening.
9. What Ammonia Level Should My Tank be at?
Ideally, you want an ammonia level between 0-0.5. By changing your water regularly (about 30-50% twice a week, if you have high ammonia) this will help reduce the ammonia in your tank.
It is a good idea to monitor ammonia levels on a regular basis, because a high level is not healthy for your Betta Fish.
10. Would a Father Betta Harm His Children?
Unfortunately, a male (Father) Betta would harm his children (Fry). Although, the Father is very protective of the Fry during the spawning process it is common for them to attack the Fry as they become bigger and able to look after themselves.
I recommend removing the Father from the tank once the Fry are able to swim freely, usually 7-10 days after birth because he can become very aggressive towards them and potentially cause them harm.
That's the answers to the 10 most asked questions I get on a regular basis. I hope you found this information useful and are able to put it to good effect.

Discover How to Breed the Most Astonishing Betta Fish

Breeding Betta Fish is such a vast topic in itself, and you could write a whole book on the subject - Indeed some people have! However, I'm going to give you a brief overview of the breeding process by answering 2 very important questions...
1. How Do You Know When Your Betta Fish is Ready to Breed?
In my opinion the ideal time to breed your Betta Fish is when they are between 6 to 12 months of age.
You will know when a male is ready to begin breeding because he will begin making his bubble nest, this usually takes 1-2 days until completion of the nest. You can't miss the bubble nest when it starts to happen, it is as its name suggests, a nest that looks like a group of bubbles that floats in the water.
To tell when a female is ready to spawn you will notice vertical stripes appearing on her sides. Don't get vertical stripes mixed up with horizontal ones, because horizontal stripes mean they are stressed. Also, a female will start to become swollen near the white spot on her belly (ovipositor) when she is getting broody! :-)
2. How do you Breed Betta Fish?
Start, by creating a separate breeding tank. The water in the tank should be about 5 to 6 inches deep and at a temperature of (75-80F). You will also want to add some large leaves to aid in the building of the bubble nest and to help the female hide when the male gets aggressive.
You then want to gradually introduce the fish. To do this either put a divider into a tank separating the two fish. obviously, a male and a female Betta! ;-), or keep them in different tanks but so they can see each other.
Whilst introducing them you should begin feeding the Betta live food to prepare them for breeding. Such food could be live brine shrimp, freezed blood worms or black worms (also known as Tubifex worms) - I must admit this isn't my cup of tea but Betta's love this stuff! After 10-14 days of doing this you can place them in the breeding tank together...
However, make sure you supervise when you do this otherwise the male might become too aggressive towards the female. There will obviously be some aggression and nipping as they get to know each other. However, if you think it gets too serious then remove the female and try again in a couple of days.
Once, your Betta's have gotten to know each other and decide to breed the male will wrap himself around the female, often called an "embrace". The female will then release her eggs into the bubble nest or the male will collect them and put them into the bubble nest. The female can release anything from 500-750 eggs so the embrace is usually performed several times.
When the female has finished laying her eggs remove her from the tank shortly afterwards because the male Betta will become very protective of his bubble nest and aggressive, and she could become fish food (kind of like brine shrimp if you know what I mean!?).
After this process has finished the male will takeover fertilizing, cleaning and looking after the eggs by keeping them within the bubble nest. Approx. 2-3 days later the eggs will hatch and the Fry (Baby Betta's) are released.
Another 3-5 days later the Fry will begin swimming. At this stage you should remove the male Betta from the nest to avoid the Fry becoming fish food. You should feed the Fry with baby brine shrimp or daphnia three times a day. After 14 days you can begin feeding them flake or powder food but in small quantities until they are big enough.
Around 4-5 weeks later you will be able to identify the males and the females. Separate the males from each other before the fighting begins because there is always a loser!
This article should have given you a good overview of the breeding process and with this information you will be well on your way to achieving astonishing Betta Fish displaying the most magnificent colour and fin structure that will make your Friends gasp in amazement when they see your tank!

Feeding Beta Fish

Knowing the proper diet for betta fish is important. An improper betta diet can lead to a sick betta fish. There is nothing that can stress a fish lover out more then a sick betta. So why not take the extra step towards your betta's health and feed them properly.
Sure general betta pellets are ok; however betta fish can thrive on a diet of brine shrimp and blood worms. Most pet store chains have frozen foods for fish including brine shrimp and bloodworms.
Overfeeding can be a problem several ways. First betta fish don't need to eat much to survive. Eating too much can be harmful. Also don't let uneaten food fall to the bottom of the aquarium. Betta fish are not bottom feeders and will likely not eat off the gravel. Always feed them small amounts and be sure you have there attention before feeding so they will stay at the top of the aquarium waiting for the food. A good method is to drop food in front of the betta's face. Try feeding them only a few brine shrimp or bloodworms at a time and no more then 15 per meal (I know that sounds impossible but do your best. Anyone who has seen brine shrimp or bloodworms will understand).
Finally keep the water in the aquarium crystal clear. Any signs of dirty water change it as soon as possible. Would you swim in a dirty cloudy swimming pool? Then why should your fish? Dirty water often has a lot of waste. Which is caused by rotting food from over feeding or waste from the betta it's self. So please keep your betta in a nice clean aquarium. Then sit back and enjoy.

Betta Fish Breeding at Home

Breeding fish can be somewhat difficult. Especially with Betta fish, as they tend to be aggressive towards other Betta fish. There are several steps you will need to follow in order to successfully breed your Betta fish.
You will need to make sure that your fish are at least 5 months old and fully acclimated to their tanks. You must set the male in one tank and the female in another close to each other so they can get used to one another before you bring them together to mate.
The Betta fish will begin to show signs when they are ready to mate; the male will make a bubble nest at the top of his tank where he will eventually place the eggs, and the female can develop colorful stripes.
Your breeding tank should be kept at 80-82 degrees for the baby fish to best survive. You can now place the female in with the male and he will hold her upside down so that she can release her eggs.
Betta fish can release hundreds of eggs, while some have been known to release close to a thousand. Her job done, the female will then hide and the male will take over the caring of the young.
It is best to take the mother out of the tank at this point, or the male may view her as a threat to the eggs and may get aggressive towards her.
Once the fish have hatched and are swimming freely, take the male out of the tank as well or he may begin to eat his young and your hard work will have been in vain.
Give the babies about two weeks before you change their water, and be careful that you don't overfeed them or the tank could become cloudy.
After a couple weeks, you can begin changing the water and separating the fish into other bowls. Now all you will need to do is decide if you want to sell them, or keep them for your family.

Betta Fish Breeding for Fun

Breeding Betta fish can be difficult. You can't just put the two fish together then expect them to mate and everything to be ok.
The male Siamese fighting fish are known to be aggressive and will fight other Bettas. It is best to keep the fish separated, but in tanks next to each other so they can see one another and get used to each other before you try to breed them.
There are several things that you need to make sure you are ready and set up before you can even begin the breeding process. These include things such as keeping the water temperature a comfortable 80 degrees, and making sure you remove the female and male Bettas at the right time.
You will also be the proud caretaker of up to 1000 baby fish! Not all of the fry live, but there will likely be several hundred and you will need to think about where to put them all.
These few things may make it slightly more difficult for the average person to breed Bettas at home for fun, they are very picky fish and will need close monitoring. But those who do breed these beautiful fish soon learn the extra efforts are worth it as breeding Betta fish can be a lot of fun, and even profitable too. So, just make sure you know what you are getting into before you decide to dive into breeding Betta fish.

Betta fish: An Introduction

Betta fish scientifically belongs to animalia kingdom, chordate phylum, actinopterygii class, Perciformes order, Osphronemidae family, Betta genus and B. splendens species.
The Siamese fighting fish (Betta splendens) is one of the most well-liked types of freshwater aquarium fish, inhabitant to the Mekong basin in Southeast Asia and called pla-kad in its native Thailand. It is associated with the gourami family, but was in earlier times classified among the Anabantidae. Even though there are almost 50 other kind of bettas, B. splendens is the most admired species among aquarium hobbyists, mostly in the United States, and is normally referred to with the nick name "betta."
A betta fish grows in general to a length of just about 6 cm (~ 2.3" in). Bettas are famous for their colors and the shape of their tails. The usual coloration of betta fishes are light green and brown, and the fins of wild varieties are comparatively small. On the other hand, radiantly colored and longer-finned species have been developed all the way through selective breeding.
Breeders have developed a number of unusual tail shapes for example veil tail (non-symmetrical tail, simply 2 rays), crown tail (extremely frilled, extensive rays), half-moon (big tail fin that makes the shape of a half circle), short-finned fighting style (from time to time called plakat), double-tail (the tail fin is divided into two lobes and the dorsal fin is considerably stretched out) and delta tail (tail span is comparatively smaller than half-moon).
Betta fishes have been lovingly nicknamed "The Jewel of the Orient" because of the wide variety of colors which are formed through selective breeding.
In recent times breeders have developed in females the same variety of colors in the past only bred in males. Untamed bettas only reveal strong colors when troubled. On the other hand, breeders have been talented enough to make this coloration everlasting, in a wide range of shades. Bettas that are red or dark blue are the easiest to buy, being fairly enduring and time and again breed true. Though, bettas come in other colors, like magenta, orange, yellow (uncommon), white and emerald green. Breeders have also developed various color outlines such as marble and butterfly, in addition to metallic colors like copper, gold, and opaque.
Breeders all over the world keep on developing new strains. Though, females never grow finnage as flashy as males of the same category, and are roughly always more passive in coloration.
Betta fishes are somewhat easy to breed if provided with appropriate healthy environment. Females can be recognized by a little, white 'pearl' at the rectum, very easily noticeable from underneath the fish. They lay egg clutches of just about 100-500 eggs, on the odd occasions over 600 eggs. The male protects and feeds the eggs and baby fishes. The male betta fishes construct bubble nests of a variety of dimensions and thicknesses on the top of their tanks, at times even when not in the company of female or young. Rapid temperature alteration, barometer alterations, materials in the tank, and occurrence of other males or females all have been shown to encourage bubble nest creation. On the other hand, once the young fish are swimming liberally, the responsibility of tending them falls upon the human possessor. For that reason, it is sensible to do research and arrange for baby food, baby-ready (cycled) tanks, etc. earlier to authentic breeding.
In general betta fishes live to be 3-5 years old, but a few live to be almost 8 years old. Usually, males bought from a pet store are 9-12 months old; at this age the finnage of the betta fishes becomes fullest and most striking. Because of their smaller looking finnage, females obtainable in pet stores are most of the times only 3-6 months old. Male betta fishes existing in laboratories with big individual tanks and exercise on a daily basis have lived 10 years or much more.
Similar to anabantids and all associates of the genus Betta, betta fishes have a labyrinth limb in their heads that permits them to take oxygen straightforwardly from the environment besides the oxygen taken from water with the help of their gills.

Breeding Betta fishes

Betta fishes are in reality very sociable fish as long as you don't place two males together. They can be very easily kept with most other fish, and what you truly have to watch out for is the fish that bothers bettas.
Betta fishes are slow moving fish with incredibly long fins, so they can't be placed with any fast moving fish that is being known for it's fin-nipping, like zebra danios. They get along in a very good manner with most breeds of tetras, and you can let your baby betta fish grow with baby neons.
When you place bettas in a community tank, the most significant thing to keep in mind is that they are fish that initially came from an area with slow moving water. So any kind of big filtration on the tank will shock a betta and make him conceal in a corner away from the current. You have to create a sense of balance in this case with the other fish in the tank that have need of the current and bubbles for the oxygen in the water for them to survive. Alternatively, once a betta fish gets accustomed to the current from a filter, you will every now and then see the betta playing in it for fun. Simply take care that there is an area with slow moving water or still water in the tank for the betta to move to when they are exhausted.
Normally you can't place a male and female betta fish in the same tank if * The two fish are not very babyish (more than a few months old generally won't work) * They are not prepared and ready to reproduce, * They have not grown up together from a very young age, and * You do not have sufficient hiding places for the female.
This is a sweeping statement - your mileage may differ on this one!
Generally, even for usual breeders, getting the silly small fish to breed can be either an effortless joy or a royal pain. They're not as good as the humans on blind dates. Many a times one couple will take to each other right away and you'll have eggs spread here and there in the tank, and sometimes they can swim around the tank for weeks and in no way look at each other. Or in certain cases one will be attracted but the other won't. So don't ever get depressed about not being able to breed the fish.
As a universal rule, for a female betta fish, give her sufficient time for her to recuperate and start looking prepared again; Sorry, that won't help out a lot, but every fish is unusual just keep an eye on your betta fish. If she had a despondent initially, it'll take her a while to recuperate. If the whole thing went well, she can be hot to trot again within a week.
Generally the second mating produce less number of eggs as compared to the first one, but it's never debilitated the female yet. If the female betta fish hasn't been fed, high-protein food regularly, then it takes normally a minimum time of 2-3 weeks after starting that food that she'll be prepared for breeding. After having been bred, if the female fish has been put on that same food again, usually within 2-3 weeks she'll be prepared again. However, it would better on your part to maintain a gap of one month in between.
Look carefully while placing the fish together. If the female is trying to attract the male aggressively and the bubblenest, and hanging her head down in the water, she's prepared. If all she does is swim away worriedly trying to run away, she's not.
Males also have to be conditioned as they use up a lot of exertion in tending the fry, but they're time and again more prepared than females. Though, keep an eye on the fish. From time to time the male is just so eager to be with a female that he's more involved in either fighting or showing off to truly doing anything about it. Or he's been around females so much that being lonely with one just isn't a delight anymore. Make use of your decision.
Normally after a fish is beaten up, it's fine to give them sufficient time to recuperate from whatever wounds they received, but torn fins aren't generally a trouble.

Caring for a Betta Fish: An Insider's Guide for Betta Lovers

Marcus Song's "Caring for a Betta Fish: An Insider's Guide for Betta Lovers" is filled with exclusive and little known insider information on caring for these exquisite and one of it a kind little fish. Even for someone like me, who has owned Betta fish nearly all of my life for their beauty and longevity, I learned something new at the turn of each and every page. This is a wonderful read for those who are curious to learn about these under water beauties and possibly obtain one (or three or four!) for themselves.
First, Song took me through the history of the fish, from the olden days in rice paddies to their name sake, the ancient Asian warrior Bettah clan, to their international dispense via a gift from the King of Siam. He also explained the fascinating and exciting world of fish fighting when the people of Thailand, Cambodia and Vietnam would put their homes and even their children on the line "on the outcome of just one fight."
We all know that Bettas are fantastically colored. But do you know why? They were not always so highly decorated. Song delves into color variations and just how Bettas got the immense variety of terrific tints and patterns that we see today.
While explaining the facts of how Bettas are no longer bred to fight but rather for their vivid hues, Song talks about how the species has calmed down their fighting spirit and become more tranquil, slowly but surely, generation after generation. Song took me through an incredible journey of how he himself has bonded with fish beyond anything in my wildest imagination. If cared for properly, Song claims a Betta will literally wag his tail when he sees his owner approaching and will possibly come to the surface for some extra TLC in the form of a pat on the head or a little leftover piece of chicken. In a later chapter, towards the end of the book, Song also informed me that after a bond has been formed you can actually train your Betta to do tricks such as jumping out of the water for food or swimming through hoops! I found these sections truly incredible, proving that the Betta is not just "some fish" but rather gentle companionship for those looking for an alternative type of pet.
Next, after getting some necessary background knowledge, I took a journey to the pet store in my mind with Song while he explained the do's and don'ts of scoping out a respectable pet store, choosing the right Betta, avoiding death and illness while transporting the little guy and introducing fishy to his new home. Although the tank set up procedure is simple, if it is not done correctly, it could be a life or death situation that you do not want to put your newest family member in. Song eagerly explained many Betta lover tips such as aging water to filtration instructions and beyond.
I began to wonder what else there was and if I, as a fellow Betta owner, was feeding my fish properly. Low and behold, the next chapter answered my questions precisely. Little did I know that Betta fish were carnivores and that my little guys craved treats like a small piece of chicken left over from dinner or even a tiny but juicy piece of steak! Song also eased my vacation stress of what do with our three Bettas when we went on our annual vacation. Our little men are easier to please and care for than I had thought a mere 30 minutes before diving into Song's book. Song then prepared me for any health issues that my fish might have, some that might have gone unnoticed had I not taken a moment to read his book. There are many illnesses that can fall over your Betta but 99% of them can be cured if the owners observe their fish with attentive and loving eyes. Song gives me all of the information I could ever need on sicknesses, what to look for with each illness and Betta lover tips on treatment and even better yet, on prevention. It is so easy to stop these problems before they start. I learned many, many helpful tips to help my Betta fish become happier, healthier and stress free.
Lastly, Song took me into a place we have all been before: the loss and mourning period at the death of a pet. Most books do not speak of this topic but it is one that we have all experience with a beloved pet, big or small. Song made me feel comforted, that I wasn't alone, when experiencing feelings of loss and sadness after a Betta fish's death and where to go for help to cope with this loss if need be.
Song's guide, "Caring for a Betta Fish: An Insider's Guide for Betta Lovers" is truly a first in the Betta world. It is comprehensive and detailed yet easy to read and maneuver through. I found his tips thoughtful, informative and very simple to follow. Whether a member of a Betta group, a Betta breeder or just a fellow Betta lover my advice to you is to read this guide! Not only will it make you a better Betta owner, you will increase the quality of life for your Betta as well as yourself by giving yourself the gift of a truly unique and one of a kind pet for years to come.

Removal Of Fish From Your Aquarium

Fish are living creatures. Cute as they look in your aquarium, it is inevitable that they will die one day. At that time, it is very essential that you evacuate the dead fish from your aquarium as soon as possible; otherwise the carcasses of the fish might pollute the fish tank drastically and can endanger the other creatures living in the tank. Removing dead fish is a very simple process actually, but you have to be sure the fish is really dead. Dead fish will temporarily sink to the bottom of the aquarium, but then soon enough, they will begin floating in the tank in the infamous belly-up position. This is the time when the fish will begin releasing toxins into the water. When you see a fish in this manner, remove it as soon as possible. It is not a good idea, however, to actually handle dead fish. You must use small nets or gloves to remove the fish from your tank.
However, it is not just dead fish that you will need to remove from your tank. Fish that are obviously sick must be immediately quarantined, which you can do by putting them into a fishbowl so that they do not spread their disease to the other fish in the tank. You can understand if fish are sick by looking at their movement in the water. If the fish are sluggish in the way they move (you must compare with how they move normally), or if they are spending a lot of time behind the rocks or plants in the aquarium, or simply lying lethargically on the aquarium bed, then something is wrong with them. The eyes of the fish could also be indicators of disease. If there is anything different with the eye, first remove the fish from the aquarium, and then get it checked by a qualified person.
But the most difficult thing is to remove a live and healthy fish from the tank. There are many reasons why you would want to remove a live fish. The fish might have outgrown the capacity of the tank, or the tank might be getting crowded, or simply the fish might be a danger to other fish due to its violent nature. Betta fish are notorious for attacking other fish in the tanks. Whatever the reason may be, removing live healthy fish from the tank is always a challenge.
There are some obvious problems. Live fish will squirm and wriggle around a lot in protest when you try to remove them. Some fish, like the surgeonfish, will also harm you if you try to touch them. Then there are toxic fish that you have to be worried about. Also, when you try to remove a live fish, there will be a lot of thrashing and flailing about, due to which the entire setup of your aquarium tank could be disturbed.
Your best bet to take out a live fish from your tank would be to use a line, hook and bait, just like you do when you go fishing. But you will have to use a blunt hook so as not to harm the fish. Tie up a morsel of the fish's favorite food on the hook and dangle it in the tank keeping the line tight. The fish will take the bait, and then you can transfer it to another tank.
Another way to do this effectively is to confuse the fish. Most fish are startled when there are sudden changes in light, because deep under the water in their natural habitat, there are never any quick light changes. Anyways, you can keep your tank in darkness for several hours and then suddenly put all the lights on in the room. Taking advantage of the confusion of the fish, you can manually take them up, using protective gloves. An alternative to this is to come up to the tank in the middle of the night and then to shine a torch suddenly at them.
Putting fish into a tank is many times easier than removing them, especially if you want to retain fish that are still alive. You will need to be patient and careful so that you accomplish the task without harming the fish in question and the other inhabitants of the tank.

Identification and Treatment of Dropsy in Freshwater Aquarium Fish

Question about Dropsy:
I posted about a female Siamese fighting fish (Betta) that appeared to have dropsy a few weeks ago. I treated her twice with Maracyn. After the swelling didn't start to go down, but she is still as swollen as she was then, but has not got to the point were her scales have started to protrude? Do you know what else that it could be. She seems buoyant and the swollen cavity appears to be filled by either air, of a clear liquid, when she swims in front of the lights?
Answer:
Have you tried Kanacyn? Maracyn (Erythromycin) is usually not effective for most causes of Dropsy. And dropsy is generally a symptom of something else, sometimes digestive, often kidney related. Because of this, Dropsy can often be very difficult to treat, especially if caught in an advanced case in the fish. What the aquarist often observes is a "pinecone" swelling generally caused by fluid building inside the body cavity, for this reason, reducing this swelling is an important step in effecting a cure. This said, besides treatment for a possible underlying infection, you want to take steps to remove the swelling.

Here are the steps I would take:

*Change water! (25% should be fine)

*Perform a medicated bath with Methylene Blue. To prepare this bath I use 1 teaspoon 2.303% solution per 5 gallons (double dose) in a bath of aquarium water from the tank the fish you wish to treat came from, I usually use about a ½ gallon of water, however you may use less. Measurement of the Methylene Blue does not need to be precise as this bath should be used for about 30 minutes (although do NOT overdose). Make sure you keep the water in a warm area, as in a cold room the water temperature can drop rapidly which would stress the fish. Do not pour this water back into your display aquarium when finished. This can be performed twice per day.

*Add one tablespoon of regular salt (sodium chloride) per 5 gallons of tank water and ¼ to ½ teaspoon of Epsom salts per 5 gallons of tank water. Add a Wonder Shell (trace element block) or similar product to add needed calcium. What these minerals will do is add electrolytes and change (and improve) the osmotic balance of the fish vs. the surrounding water to hopefully pull fluids thru the body thus reducing swelling.

*Treat tank water with Kanamycin (Kanaplex), or possibly with Neomycin or Nalidixic Acid.

Here is more info about aquarium medications: Aquarium Medications; treatments, how they work, and which ones to use and not to use

Prevention:

The aeromonas bacteria (that is often present in healthy aquariums) can cause infections that will manifest this way in poor water conditions. So maintaining a healthy aquarium with regular water changes, good filtration (if possible, this is why I see more cases of Dropsy in Betta kept in a bowl), good feeding practices (not over feeding and using quality foods), and maintaining proper water parameters (ammonia and nitrites 0, kH 80 ppm, nitrates under 40 ppm). All this goes a long way in prevention of Dropsy and other diseases.

A proper diet makes a large difference here. Do not feed your fish meat based proteins, I recommend aquatic based proteins such as white fish meal, shrimp or even the proteins found in spirulina algae.

As a basic diet I recommend Sanyu or Hikari Betta Gold (there are many other quality foods as well, although I do not recommend flake foods for bettas as their staple diet) Poor quality proteins (or better; unusable amino acids for fish) can lead to digestive problems or Renal failure, which can lead to the symptoms of Dropsy. All proteins are made up of amino acids, some are usable (by fish), and some are not. Those that are not are disposed of by kidneys in the fish. This can lead to renal failure or infection. For more information about proper nutrition, see this article: "Quality Fish Food; What ingredients are needed for proper fish nutrition, growth and health". Also always soak all dry foods in water for 5 minutes prior to feeding as this will remove air that can lead to infections of the digestive tract. I would recommend this as a basic diet for your Betta: Sanyu Betta Gold

For further & expanded information and pictures, please see this article: "Aquarium Answers; DROPSY in fish; prevention, causes, and possible treatment of this symptom. "

Give Your Betta Fish A Better Life!

Have you ever been to your local pet shop and seen the Bettas (also known as Siamese Fighters), in a tiny little tank? When I questioned my local pet store about the size of container they were kept in, they proceeded to tell me that it is what Bettas prefer! They had obviously been asked this many times, because they handed me a photocopied piece of paper explaining how to care for a Betta, and how they like to live in tiny spaces.
Now I don't know about you, but I personally think it is extremely cruel, and I think the fish think so as well, as they look pretty miserable. A good indication of it is that they aren't showing off their beautiful fins, instead they are usually skulking near the bottom, fins down.

Now the pet shop's theory is that Bettas live in small puddles of water in the rice fields of Asia, but what they don't tell you is that they move from puddle to puddle, and then on to bigger expanses of water. They are not stuck in one small puddle all their life, never meeting up with another fish! The species would be extinct by now if that was the case.

If you own a Betta in a small tank, please consider getting it a bigger home. You cannot keep two male Bettas together, because, as the name Siamese Fighter suggests, they will fight! You could easily keep your Betta in an aquarium with other tropical fish. Whatever you do, don't keep them with fish that like to nip fins, like Barbs, and especially not with Guppies. Male Bettas view Guppies as competition and will most probably fight and kill them.

The other alternative is to get one or two female Bettas. It is much better to have a couple of females, rather than just one, as it will give each female a break from amorous advances. When the male is ready to breed he will make a bubble nest near the surface of the water. Once the female has laid the eggs, which can be anywhere from 400 to 500 eggs, he will guard them.

Make sure that the aquarium in which they live has some vegetation they can hide in, as well as easy access to the surface of the aquarium, as they like to breathe air at the surface from time to time.

So, if you do own a male Betta in a tiny tank, please think about this, give him a better home, and watch how much happier he will be.

Show Your Betta You Care: 5 Steps to a Clean Betta Tank

While betta fish can handle water that is stagnant they do need the water to be cleaned regularly. Since they're not usually kept in tanks with aeration systems it's important to keep an eye on your tank. It's a good rule of thumb to change the water every week in a five-gallon tank. If your betta's container is smaller, you may need to change it daily or every couple of days. If the water is getting cloudy or smells bad, then clean it!
Step Number 1: Carefully remove your betta from the tank and put it in a small dish. To remove the betta use a small fish net. Try to keep startling the fish to a minimum and be careful not to damage their fins.

Go ahead and use old water from the tank in the dish. This is important as it minimizes shock to your betta. Remember to use a dish that they can't jump out of!

Step Number 2: Clean the tank. Save the old water before you begin cleaning the tank. When you do start on the tank be sure to remove any algae or scum that has grown to the sides of the tank. Use some elbow grease if you need to. Don't use soap on the sides. If you're cleaning regularly there shouldn't be anything on them that you can't just wipe off. Step Number 3: Clean your tank accessories. Remember to clean the stones, objects, cover, and anything else you've got in the tank. A good rinse and wipe should be fine. Just be sure to clean all of the scum off.

Step Number 4: Replace some of the water. You do not want to swap out all of the water at one time. This would be a shocking environment change to your betta. Look to change about 50% of the water whenever you change your Betta's water. Fill the remaining space with clean water that's about 78 degrees F. If you alter the water temperature too much it could be stressful to your betta when you put them back into the tank. At this point you'll add your tap water conditioner, aquarium salt, and anything else you're going to put in there.

Step Number 5: Carefully add your fish back. Leave them alone for a while to let them get over the shock of the water change. If you've been careful handling them and maintaining your old tank water then it shouldn't take them long to be back up to snuff!

Betta Fish Care - Ways To Keep A Healthy, Beautiful Fish

Because betta fish can be kept in relatively simple containers as opposed to large aquariums with complicated filtration systems, many people are attracted to them as easy to care for, yet beautiful tropical fish. But betta fish care does require some frequent work to keep the fish happy and healthy.
The first key to betta fish care is to give your fish at least a little space. Yes, they can be kept alive in those little jars they sell them in at the pet stores, but imagine how happy you'd be if confined to a space so small you couldn't move. Bettas kept in very small containers often grow listless and may lose color over time. While your fish does not require a tremendous amount of space, you do want it to have enough room to swim around a bit. A one to two gallon fish bowl works nicely. In addition, since Bettas do breathe at the surface from time to time, you want to make sure there is sufficient space at the surface for your fish to do that.

It should be noted that bettas can jump, so it is important to put some type of cover over the top of your container (as long as it is not airtight!) to keep your fish in the water.

The next part of betta fish care that is critical to the health of the fish is to keep the container and water very clean. Part of keeping the container clean is to use care when feeding your fish. Excess food will accumulate at the bottom and cause bacterial growth and cloud the water. I suggest feeding your fish with the standard betta food pellets by dropping in just one pellet at a time, perhaps 3 or 4 times per day. Not only will this help keep the container clean, it will also prevent overfeeding which can cause swim bladder problems which can kill betta fish.

Frequent water changes are important to keep toxins from building up. Small containers should have at least one third of their water changed at least twice per week. Larger containers with one to two gallons of water or more can be done once per week, with about half the water being changed out.

When changing the water, there are various test kits, water treatment chemicals, aging techniques, etc. that can be used to remove toxic substances like chlorine and to establish the preferred neutral pH of the water. There is a much simpler trick to betta fish care with regards to water though. You can buy ordinary distilled water and not have to test or treat it at all. Distilled water is free of contaminants and has a neutral pH - perfect for your betta fish, and much simpler than trying to get your tap water to the right chemical balance! Just be sure to get DISTILLED water instead of spring water, drinking water, etc., in order to ensure purity and the correct pH.

Good betta fish care also involves keeping the water warm - about 75 or 80 degrees. Bettas come from tropical regions and do not like it when the water temperature is too low.

Decorations in the container are desirable, as betta fish like to rest on objects off the bottom. Be sure to choose objects that do not have any sharp edges, as these can tear up the betta's delicate fins. Real or artificial plants can be used, but with artificial plants be sure the material is soft, again to avoid fin damage.

The tips you now have will give you the basics to keep your betta healthy. A bright, active fish will be the outcome of good betta fish care.

Betta Fish Care For A Healthy And Colorful Betta

Although part of the appeal of betta fish is that they can be kept without the need for a large aquarium or with a complicated filtration system, betta fish care does require some effort. Betta fish are beautiful when kept healthy and happy, and this article will give you the basics on how to achieve just that.
Good betta fish care dictates giving your pet a continer that is large enough for the fish to swim around at least a little bit. Bettas can of course survive in the little jars they are often sold in, but this is far from a healthy environment and bettas in such tight quarters may fade in color and become sluggish. Bettas don't need a huge amount of space, but a little room to swim, and a decent amount of surface area for the fish to get gulps of air in are recommended. As a suggestion, a 1 to 2 gallon fish bowl is a good option.

Betta fish can and will jump, so whatever container you are using, be sure that it can be covered (dont use an airtight cover!) to prevent your fish from jumping out.

The next part of betta fish care that is critical to the health of the fish is to keep the container and water very clean. Part of keeping the container clean is to use care when feeding your fish. Excess food will accumulate at the bottom and cause bacterial growth and cloud the water. I suggest feeding your fish with the standard betta food pellets by dropping in just one pellet at a time, perhaps 3 or 4 times per day. Not only will this help keep the container clean, it will also prevent overfeeding which can cause swim bladder problems which can kill betta fish.

Another way to make sure the water is clean is to change part it on a frequent basis. How much water to replace and how often is largely dependent on the size of the container, as waste products build up much more quickly in small containers than in larger ones. If your fish is in a container with half a gallon of water or less, it is a good idea to change at least a third of the water every 3 days or so. For a one to two gallon or larger container, changing about a third to a half of the water about once per week should be sufficient.

When changing the water, there are various test kits, water treatment chemicals, aging techniques, etc. that can be used to remove toxic substances like chlorine and to establish the preferred neutral pH of the water. There is a much simpler trick to betta fish care with regards to water though. You can buy ordinary distilled water and not have to test or treat it at all. Distilled water is free of contaminants and has a neutral pH - perfect for your betta fish, and much simpler than trying to get your tap water to the right chemical balance! Just be sure to get DISTILLED water instead of spring water, drinking water, etc., in order to ensure purity and the correct pH.

Good betta fish care also means keeping the water to a warm temperature. Bettas come from tropical regions and are happiest at temperatures at about the 75 to 80 degree (Farenheit) range.

Betta fish prefer to rest on objects off of the bottom of the container, so some decorations are a good idea. It is important to use objects that are smooth and don't have any sharp edges, because the betta's fins are very delicate and can be easily damaged. If the material is too rigid, even artificial plants can cause fin damage to your betta.

Using the tips you have just learned, you will be well on your way to keeping a healthy, happy betta fish. The show of brilliant color on your fish will be your reward for your excellent betta fish care.